Amid the second wave of Covid-related lockdowns in early 2021, we were sojourning in Albania; one of the few countries that hadn't imposed any significant travel restrictions. We were settled in the seaside city of Saranda, in the south of the country. Early spring days came at the end of February. The sun shone dazzlingly and the temperature rose above 20 Celsius. It was a … [Read more...]
From Korca To Prespa Lake National Park Winter Day Trip
It was a dazzlingly sunny morning in southern Albania. We had just arrived in the city of Korca from Pogradec the previous day and were about to set off exploring the surrounding area. As our destination for this day trip, we chose the Prespa Lake National Park, located some 30 km northeast from Korca. We got on the road SH3 and took a left before Zemblak village. We … [Read more...]
A Winter Trip To Pogradec And Lake Ochrid Shore In Albania
After a long night drive from Mount Korab, we ended up camping on a random piece of ground near the town of Librazhd. We were drained and slept late into the morning. Upon exiting the tent, at last, we beheld a marvelous picture. For the first time in weeks, the sky was immaculately clear, and the frozen landscape was twinkling with brilliant sunlight. We got ready lazily and … [Read more...]
An American Woman Left-Over In Communist Cuba After The Revolution
A searing tropical sun was approaching its zenith in the blue sky of Havana, but hardly any light had made it through the tiny, curtained window of my dingy room. The antiquated wall fan was whirring madly, pointed firmly over my prostrated body, but I was drenched in sweat all the same. I was just beginning to wake up and become aware of my mild hangover. Half-sleepingly, I … [Read more...]
Trekking Mount Korab From Radomire In The Winter
Having just failed to acquire a Covid test to be allowed into Kosovo, we left Kukes destined for Mount Korab. This is the highest mountain of both Albania and North Macedonia, reaching an elevation of 2,764 m. The plan was to drive to the Albanian village of Radomire by the mountain's western foot, sleep for a few hours, and set off before dawn for a day trek towards Mount … [Read more...]
The Nonagenarian Shepherd in the Greek Mountains
The harsh midsummer sun had plunged a good deal and was approaching the western horizon. A soft, pleasant breeze was sliding soundlessly across the mountain col. The firs, the gently chirping birds, and even the rocks seemed to rejoice in the gradual receding of the relentless heat. The high surrounding peaks, the low valleys and plains, and the distant sea radiated all with … [Read more...]
Two Days in Kukes And The Albania-Kosovo Border
When we woke up on that beautiful natural terrace overlooking the Valley of Valbona and the plains of Bajram Curri, we had a clear plan: head to Kosovo. The idea was to extend our road trip from Albania into Kosovo, and among other places in this new country, go for some snowboarding in Brezovica Ski Resort. Sure, crossing borders these days was far from straightforward. … [Read more...]
A Winter Trip To Bajram Curri and Valbona Valley National Park
We woke up almost deafened by the night-long, boisterous descent of the torrent beside our camping spot. The rain was having a morning break and we got to enjoy the serenity of the deep gorge that hosted us. We had ended up there after a long drive from Shkoder on the previous day. We packed lazily and got ready to resume our way through the eastern portion of the Albanian … [Read more...]
From Shkoder To Bajram Curri In The Winter
This morning found us on a lovely spot on the shore of Komani Lake, a few kilometers from the city of Shkoder. On the previous day, we had failed to catch a ferry across the lake, so today we had to make it to Bajram Curri overland. We got on the road SH5 and began on our long way eastwards. We were gaining altitude steadily. The rain soon stopped for snowfall to take … [Read more...]
The Story of an Albanian Junky
A cool spring night had just fallen over the Albanian coastal city of Saranda. A pleasant breeze blew on the balcony. The Greek villages of Corfu glowed faintly from across the coal-black sea. They were in lockdown over there. Here was one of the few places on earth you could still walk around unmasked and at will these days. A mellow aura of freedom diffused the … [Read more...]
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