Zagorochoria, often simply called Zagori, is a cluster of 46 stone villages spread across the Pindus mountains in Epirus, northwestern Greece. The villages are linked by an old network of stone paths and arch bridges, many built by local stonemasons who became renowned across the Ottoman Balkans for their craftsmanship. Each settlement has a distinct character, but all share the same architectural style: gray stone houses with slate roofs and narrow cobbled alleys. The area is also home to the Vikos Gorge, one of the world’s deepest canyons relative to its width, now part of Vikos–Aoös National Park. Historically, Zagorochoria enjoyed privileges under Ottoman rule, which allowed for prosperity in trade and education during the 18th century. Today, some villages have been revitalized as bases for hiking, while others remain sparsely inhabited, preserving the sense of remoteness that defines the region.
During our summer 2025 visit to Epirus, after exploring Tzoumerka, we headed north to Zagori for our second road trip. Below is our itinerary for your inspiration.
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Accommodation in Zagorochoria
If you intend to spend multiple days in the region, here are some lodging recommendations:
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Bridge of Kokkoros (or Noutsos)
Our first stop was the Bridge of Kokkoros, also known as the Noutsos Bridge, in honor of local benefactor Noutsos Kontodimos who funded its construction. Built in 1750, it served as a vital crossing over the Voidomatis River, connecting isolated mountain villages in the Vikos Gorge area. The bridge is a single-arch structure, notable for its elegant curve and the way it integrates seamlessly with the dramatic rocky landscape around it. Unlike many modern crossings, it was constructed entirely from local stone without any mortar, relying on masterful engineering and dry-stone techniques typical of Zagori’s traditional bridge-building. The bridge appears deceptively fragile from a distance, especially when framed by the steep limestone cliffs—yet it has withstood floods, snow, and time for over two centuries. Despite no longer being used for transport, it remains a popular stop for hikers and photographers traversing the Zagori trails.
On the limestone cliff beside the Bridge of Kokkoros, you’ll see a small cave locally referred to as the Cave of Christos Davelis—an infamous 19th-century outlaw who roamed various parts of Greece. According to local lore, the cave was once used as a shelter by him. There’s little concrete evidence to confirm this claim, but the association persists in oral tradition.
Above the bridge stands a picturesque stone church dedicated to Agia Paraskevi, overlooking the dramatic river crossing.
Koukouli
A short drive from the bridge led us to Koukouli: a small, stone-built village perched at about 850 meters on the southern edge of the Vikos Gorge. Like many Zagorochoria, it flourished during the Ottoman period thanks to privileges granted to the region and the wealth of emigrant benefactors who funded schools, churches, and impressive mansions that still stand today. Koukouli is closely associated with the tradition of the “Vikos doctors,” local healers who treated ailments using herbs from the surrounding mountains—an aspect preserved in the Lazaridis Botanical Museum, housed in the former home of botanist Konstantinos Lazaridis. The village is connected to nearby settlements via old stone trails and arched bridges, including the notable Plakidas Bridge, and remains a quiet but historically rich stop for those walking the Vikos Gorge or exploring the cultural landscape of Zagori.
We wandered slowly through the village’s narrow lanes, the flagstones warm underfoot and the stone walls radiating back the noonday sun. The whole village seemed to doze in the heat—shutters drawn, cats sprawled like spilled ink in the shade of doorways. From the edges of the alleys, glimpses of the gorge opened like sudden windows, blue and green and dizzyingly deep. On the small square, we found the only sign of movement: a tavern with its chairs pulled into the shade of an old plane tree, a handful of locals lingering over coffee and backgammon. The air smelled faintly of thyme and woodsmoke, though no one seemed in a rush to cook.
Monodendri
Following a long detour across the gorge, we reached the village of Monodendri. Located at around 1,060 meters of elevation, this is one of the most visited villages in the Zagori. Its somewhat somber name means the lone tree.
Monodendri was formed in the 17th century when three smaller settlements merged and, like other Zagorochoria, benefitted from regional autonomy during Ottoman rule, leading to economic and educational development. The village is known for its large stone mansions, cobbled streets, and the Rizarios Exhibition Center, founded by benefactors Manthos and Georgios Rizaris, who also established schools and supported Greek education across the Balkans. Just outside the village is the 15th-century monastery of Agia Paraskevi, perched dramatically above the Vikos Gorge with a narrow cliffside path offering striking views into the canyon. Monodendri serves as a popular starting point for treks into the gorge and maintains a balance between traditional character and modest tourism, with guesthouses and tavernas operating in restored historic buildings.
We let the cobbled streets guide us into the village square, a shaded gathering place alive with the clatter of cups and the hum of conversation. We settled at this cute café beneath the wide arms of a plane tree, ordered thick coffee and a slice of spinach pie still warm from the oven. Hunger quenched, we wandered all around the village, weaving through narrow alleys where slate-roofed mansions rose in solemn rows, their heavy doors marked with iron knockers polished by centuries of hands. Small stone churches appeared unexpectedly at corners, their frescoed interiors dim and cool against the summer brightness.
Just outside the eastern edge of the village, we spotted an amphitheater, its tiers carved into the slope like an open embrace of the landscape. Empty at that hour, it carried a quiet dignity, as if waiting for voices to rise and echo across the mountains.
Bridge of Aristi
After completing an even longer detour, we made our way toward the northern Zagorochoria. Shortly after passing the village of Aristi, the road took us past a beautiful spot where an arched bridge spanned the crystal-clear Voidomatis River, beside a pebble beach nestled on its bank. We didn’t have time to stop then, but we returned the following afternoon for a refreshing dip after our ten-hour trek. Nearby, you can also visit the Monastery of Panagia Spiliotissa.
Papigo
Our road trip concluded in Papigo—the most renowned of the Zagorochoria, and indeed, one of the most celebrated mountain villages in all of Greece. Nestled at the foot of Mount Tymfi’s rugged cliffs and within the bounds of the Vikos–Aoös National Park, it stands as a prime destination for nature-loving travelers.
It is divided into two settlements—Megalo (Great) Papigo and Mikro (Small) Papigo—both built from local stone and surrounded by dramatic limestone peaks, including the iconic towers of Astraka. The village has been continuously inhabited since at least the Byzantine period and, like other Zagori villages, saw economic and cultural growth during Ottoman times due to local trade and diaspora wealth. One of the area’s standout features is the series of natural rock pools known as the Ovires of Rogovo, carved by stream water between the two villages, which are popular in summer despite their icy temperature. Despite an increase in tourism, it has managed to retain much of its traditional character, with stone houses, narrow cobbled paths, and a strong sense of local identity.
We took our time wandering through Papigo, the cobbled paths winding like veins between clusters of slate-roofed houses, each with a small wooden balcony or a garden gate spilling with geraniums and other vibrant flowers. The air smelled faintly of pine resin drifting down from the cliffs, and every turn seemed to offer a sudden glimpse of the Astraka towers rising like sheer stone guardians above the village. We stopped at tiny chapels with centuries-old frescoes fading into earth tones, admired fountains where cold spring water trickled from carved stone spouts, and paused more than once to simply watch the play of light across the limestone peaks.
As dusk fell, we ended the day with a hearty meal in one of Papigo’s rustic taverns. And under the cover of night, we clandestinely pitched our tent in the village parking lot for a good sleep before tomorrow’s trek to the summit of Mount Tymfi.
Tours & Activities in Zagorochoria
Photos
View (and feel free to use) all my photographs from Bridge of Kokkoros, Koukouli, Monodendri, Aristi, and Papigo in higher resolution.
