Upon getting out of the tent, we witnessed winter in all its harsh potency. A bleak, damp, dismal morning had dawned over Shkodra Lake in northern Albania. We packed lazily and nestled in the warmth of the car. We were ready to depart for where the winter would only be harsher. On this second day of our road trip, we would head to the majestic Albanian Alps, and particularly, the secluded Valley of Vermosh in the country’s northernmost extremity.
Driving to the Albanian Alps
We drove back to Koplik town and got back on Road SH1. After some 15 northbound kms, shortly before the Montenegrin border, we reached a roundabout. The last petrol station we were to find before venturing into the mountains stood there. Though abandoned it looked, a nonchalant old man did eventually appear and filled up our tank to the brim. The mountains to the north looked impressive already, notwithstanding only a small portion of them being visible below the cloudline. A small road deviating off the roundabout led straight into them.
We soon began gaining height, zigzagging along a serpentine road. A huge rock-mosaic cross laid on the slope looked rather creepy. The view of the northern edge of Shkodra Lake grew wider until it altogether disappeared behind a purview.
Tamara Gorge and Cemi River
After driving through a couple of little villages spread out across a plateau, we approached a ridge. Behind it, we beheld a natural miracle. The deep Tamara Gorge and the turquoise Cemi River still working relentlessly on carving it further appeared before us in a breathtaking manifestation of terrestrial beauty. A wooden deck was there, constructed on the rim of the cliff to function as a viewpoint platform.
The road then descended steeply into the gorge, following an endless succession of sharp turns, until it approached the river bank.
Tamara Village
We soon then approached the principal settlement in the area. Tamara was a fantastically picturesque little village with cute stone houses along the river bank. It seemed half of them were either hotels or restaurants or both, but most were closed – due to the pandemic I reckon. The one that was open served only drinks. They quite reluctantly made us some chips and a salad in the end. We would have liked to have a nice walk around the village but it was raining like mad. So we got back in the car and resumed our way.
Driving to Vermosh Valley
The road after Tamara gained elevation steadily. The rain soon gave place to snow. Twice we bumped into stuck 2WD cars, but fortunately, we managed to drive past without considerable delays.
Originally, we intended to visit a nice waterfall called Ujevara e Selces along the way. There is a track leading to it after a couple of kms off the main, forking off beside a graveyard at 42.5081, 19.5976. But upon arriving on the spot, we found the track buried under two meters of snow. We couldn’t drive and didn’t have time for the hike, so we continued straight to Vermosh without any stops.
Everything turned into an unfathomable whiteness as we went above 1000 meters of altitude. Then we drove slightly down again through the gorge of Lepushe, at the mouth of which opened up before us the wonderful valley of Vermosh.
The village of Vermosh was spread out sparsely all along the 7 kms of the valley’s width. A few villagers here and there were shoveling out passages to their house doors. But most were nestling snugly behind their thick stone walls, as the densely fuming chimneys suggested.
We tried to venture off the main road and explore the further depths of the valley via various tracks, but the snow was too much even for our Lada Niva. Lacking other possibilities, we decided to settle rather early this day.
Camping in Vermosh
We located a ford across the river and chose a lovely spot by the opposite bank to pitch the tent. The good thing about camping on the snow is that you don’t need to look hard for soft and level ground. Though freezing cold, of course, the place was sheltered from the wind, had a lovely view, and the soft gurgling of the river filled soothingly the prevailing quiet. The only downside was that creepy nun who kept staring at us intently and impassively from the window of a nearby house, and made Sophie’s thriller-influenced imagination run wild.
We spent an easy afternoon in the car with the heater on. The sun dropped, the temperature plummeted, and we moved into the tent and the sleeping bag for a lovely sleep.
Hiking to the Waterfall
The morning was overcast but it didn’t snow. It was a good time for a little hike. We packed all our stuff in the car and started treading through the deep snow.
There is that one waterfall in Vermosh we spotted on the map. It is located within the woods on the northern slope of the valley (coordinates: 42.5965, 19.6985). The way took a bit more than an hour, meandering up the slope and past cottages. The waterfall itself was charming and the views of the valley from the clearing breathtaking. On the way down, we took a shortcut, sliding down the slope straight-line to the bank.
We were back to the car in no time. We took off the drone for a short flight and recording, and we were ready to depart.
The way back… and the avalanche
We had big plans for the day. It was still quite early and there was no shortage of ideas for beautiful places to explore. We took the same road back, but didn’t make it far.
Shortly after we turned west following the gorge of Lepushe, at about the highest point of the route, we got stuck behind a stranded 2WD KIA car. The snowstorm had raged on the whole night and there were enormous volumes of accumulated snow on either side of the narrow corridor that was cleared out for a road. And the snowfall was now picking up again. A snowplow and a JCB front loader were at work a few meters ahead.
A dude then emerged out of the fog, walking purposefully towards our part. He was short, funny countenance, wore tight jeans and a pair of tiny purple wellies, held an umbrella bolt upright over his head, a ciggie hung from his lips. “Pesh minuti,” he told us, splaying five fingers, as he passed by and proceeded to the cars that were now stuck behind us. He said “pesh minuti” a couple of more times as he strolled by between half-hour intervals, a new ciggie hanging from his lips every time.
By the time of his third passing, I had become aware of the situation. having spoken with the driver in the KIA in front of us, who knew Greek, and having had an exploratory walk to check it out myself. An avalanche had fallen over the road, sending a car tumbling down the cliff until it stopped, smashed on a sturdy tree some 20 meters down. The driver was very lucky to make it all but unscratched.
The machines were laboriously on it. It wouldn’t take that very long to open the road up. But then a new avalanche fell a few meters behind us. For some reason I never quite got, they decided to first clear up behind us. It would take long…
Night fell. We got mentally prepared for sleeping there tonight, but eventually, they managed to clear it and we were free to proceed. It was 7pm by then and we had remained stuck for about six hours.
Maybe an hour later, we’d made it back to Tamara. After dinner, which was basically late lunch as well, we drove straight into the secluded, alluring valley of Vukel.
Rent a car in Albania
If you are intending to go on a similar road trip in Albania, definitely check out the Lada Guys. These Russian machines will get you everywhere. But if you’re looking for a casual, cheaper car to drive on asphalt, you’ll find some good deals on autoeurope.com
Accommodation and Activities in Albania
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