We woke up almost deafened by the night-long, boisterous descent of the torrent beside our camping spot. The rain was having a morning break and we got to enjoy the serenity of the deep gorge that hosted us. We had ended up there after a long drive from Shkoder on the previous day. We packed lazily and got ready to resume our way through the eastern portion of the Albanian Alps. We were only a few kms south from the city of Bajram Curri, whence another short drive to the majestic Valbona Valley National Park.
In Bajram Curri City
Bajram Curri is a young city, founded only in 1957, and named after an Albanian national hero, in the place of a previous village known as Kolgecaj.
Despite the bleak weather, the streets were full of people, the shops busy, and the cafes crammed. We parked on the main road and went looking for civilization commodities we were in need of: mobile data, ATM, food supplies… And then we settled in one of the city’s cute cafes for a warmth-and-caffeine boost.
By the time we left the place, the city’s exceptionally large student population was off school, inundating the streets with laughter, playfulness, and vivacity. A group of them proved especially keen to approach us and practice their English upon us entering an eatery to grab a sandwich. They gave us a good lot of tips about our imminent excursion into the valley of Valbona.
In Valbona Valley National Park
It was around noon when we left the city and headed north. We were soon driving through that impressive narrow canyon entrance, officially entering the Valbona Valley National Park.
I was rather surprised to note such huge amounts of snow accumulating in such a short distance. Whereas in Bajram Curri there hardly were a few old snow patches scattered here and there, here now everything was but an endless whiteness. Only the grave, black figures of the enormous conifers interrupted the ubiquitousness of the white.
We were planning to drive to Rragam village, all the way to the end of the valley, and hike to Valbona Waterfall there situated, but this plan proved soon unfeasible. Our advance terminated before a two-meter tall snow wall shortly before Llomi village. So far they had opened the road with a private snowplow that was now parked in front of a hotel. Apart from the main road up to this point, everything else was but a giant heap of snow. Any further exploration within the innermost part of the valley was impractical.
To Cerem Village
We drove back closer to the beginning of the valley, at Dragobi village. A road was there situated leading high up to the mountains, to a remote village called Cerem.
The kids in the city had earlier warned us that this place was accessible only by snowmobile during the winter, but we decided to give it a go anyway.
The road to Cerem forks off the main road at 42.4414, 19.9589. It then reaches the village after 9 km. There was a lot of snow, of course, and other obstacles on the road. Every few meters, we had to get out of the car to remove fallen logs and rocks, one time to also chop the branches of a fallen tree off with the knife, but we did manage to advance slowly. Then, a few kms up the road, we encountered a huge boulder that even Hulk would find difficult to move. That was it about our attempt to reach Cerem. We had to turn back again.
Camping in Valbona Valley
Lacking routes to explore, we decided to stop early today and enjoy an easy afternoon. We went back to the entrance of the valley and took a road uphills near the village of Shoshan.
That led us to a lovely little natural terrace overlooking the canyon and the plains of Bajram Curri. We took advantage of the remaining light to fly the drone, as well as to collect plenty of firewood for making a fire in the night. This was by far the best camping night of this entire road trip in Albania.
We woke up early the next morning and hit the road. The plan now was to head to Kosovo.
Rent a car in Albania
If you are intending to go on a similar road trip in Albania, definitely check out the Lada Guys. These Russian machines will get you everywhere. But if you’re looking for a casual, cheaper car to drive on asphalt, you’ll find some good deals on autoeurope.com
Accommodation and Activities in Albania
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