Montevideo is the capital and largest city of Uruguay, located along the northeastern bank of the Río de la Plata. It serves as the country’s political, cultural, and economic center, home to nearly half of Uruguay’s population. The city blends colonial architecture in its Ciudad Vieja (Old City) with beachside neighborhoods like Pocitos, known for their relaxed atmosphere. A lesser-known fact is that Montevideo has one of the longest continuous sidewalks in the world—the Rambla, stretching over 13 miles along the waterfront. If you’re visiting, you might appreciate how walkable and laid-back the city feels, especially compared to other South American capitals; it’s a place where you can get a sense of daily life without the usual rush.
We visited Montevideo right after wrapping up our three-month sojourn in Brazil and spent three days exploring the city before heading off to other parts of coastal Uruguay. In this post, I’ll share some general impressions from our brief stay, a few snapshots, and our detailed itinerary, which might come in handy if you’re planning your own trip to Montevideo.
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Day #1: Settling & a First Glimpse of the Old Town
We arrived in Montevideo on an overcast morning following a 12-hour bus ride from Porto Alegre in southern Brazil. Luckily, we timed it well with the rain, which had a short break during the time it took us to walk to our accommodation in the old town.
We stayed in this place—an economical, tidy room in the flat of a friendly local woman who lived there with her cats. The location couldn’t have been better: right in the heart of the old town, directly across from the Rambla and a small park with benches where I’d take my coffee every morning and watch the city slowly come to life. I totally recommend it as long as you’re not allergic to cats.
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After some rest, and during the next rain break, we stepped out for a first look at our new surroundings. The old town of Montevideo was strikingly quiet, almost sleepy, with long cobbled streets free of car traffic, lined with handsome old buildings arranged in perfect rectangles that hinted at faded grandeur. Scattered among them were charming cafés, cozy bars, and inviting little restaurants, many with plants spilling out of doorways or soft music drifting into the street. I also noted several squats and anarchists roaming around the streets. The whole place had a relaxed, slightly bohemian feel, like a neighborhood content to move at its own pace.
I already knew that Uruguay had legalized cannabis, but it wasn’t until that walk that I realized it might just be the most smoking-friendly country in the world—perhaps not in the commercial, coffee-shop sense of Amsterdam, but in terms of sheer normalcy and social acceptance. Locals were casually smoking big joints everywhere: at café tables, perched on front steps, while riding their bikes… The only small hitch is that pharmacies still only sell pot to residents.
As the rain picked up again, we found refuge in this lovely little café. That’s where we got our first taste of Uruguayan prices. Much to my dislike—but not exactly to my surprise—they were significantly higher than in southern Brazil, which wasn’t cheap to begin with. But in a partial consolation, we later learned that when you pay with a foreign bank card, you get a considerable discount on food and drinks. I didn’t dig into the details, but I reckon the revenue service figured out they’d turn a profit by gifting tourists a discount and collecting taxes that business owners might otherwise skip when dealing in cash.
Day #2: Downtown Sightseeing and an Afternoon Walk along the Rambla
The next morning, we got up early and set out for a full day of exploration. The weather hadn’t improved since the day before, and the umbrella our host had kindly lent us turned out to be a lifesaver. As we headed toward the city center, the atmosphere grew a bit livelier than in the old town, but still felt remarkably laid-back. Car traffic was light, and drivers would stop at the mere hint of a pedestrian thinking about crossing the street. Here are some of the most interesting landmarks we came across on that walk.
Zabala Square
Still in the old town, we first walk past Plaza Zabala: a small square covered by enormous cedars. It was inaugurated in 1890 on the former site of the city’s colonial fortress and is named after Bruno Mauricio de Zabala, the Spanish founder of Montevideo. At its center stands an equestrian statue of Zabala, surrounded by carefully landscaped gardens and symmetrical pathways, a design uncommon in most other city plazas in Uruguay. One interesting detail is that the square’s French-inspired layout was intended to reflect European sophistication during a time when Montevideo was redefining its urban identity. (location)
Constitution Square
Plaza de la Constitución, also known as Plaza Matriz, is the oldest public square in Montevideo. Established in the early 18th century, it was originally the city’s main civic center and still retains that historical weight. Facing the square is the Montevideo Metropolitan Cathedral, the country’s most prominent Catholic church, along with institutions like the Cabildo, once the colonial government seat and now a museum showcasing Montevideo’s early history. A lesser-known detail: the central fountain, installed in 1871, was one of the city’s first sources of running water and still operates today. (location)
Solís Theater
Teatro Solís is Uruguay’s oldest and most prestigious theater, located just a block from Plaza Independencia in Montevideo. Opened in 1856, it was designed with neoclassical grandeur and modeled in part after European opera houses of the time. Over the years, it has hosted international figures like Sarah Bernhardt and Enrico Caruso, and today remains the home of the Montevideo Philharmonic Orchestra. An interesting architectural detail is that its acoustics were crafted so precisely that early performers often sang without microphones—a feature still appreciated during classical performances. (location)
Independence Square
Plaza Independencia is Montevideo’s main square, marking the transition between the old colonial quarter (Ciudad Vieja) and the newer downtown area. Designed in the 1830s, it is framed by major landmarks including the Solís Theatre, the Executive Tower (housing the president’s offices), and the iconic Salvo Palace, a 1920s skyscraper once the tallest in South America. At the center stands a statue of national hero José Artigas, whose mausoleum lies beneath the plaza in a solemn underground chamber guarded by ceremonial soldiers. One often-missed feature is the preserved section of the original city wall nearby, offering a glimpse of Montevideo’s fortified past. (location)
Cagancha Square
Plaza Cagancha sits along Montevideo’s main avenue, 18 de Julio, and serves as a symbolic center of the city’s civic identity. Inaugurated in 1840, the plaza features the Column of Peace, a 17-meter-tall monument topped with a statue representing Justice, erected to commemorate the end of Uruguay’s civil war. The column also marks the zero point for Uruguay’s national road system, making it a geographical reference point for distances across the country. While less ornate than other squares, its open layout and surrounding neoclassical buildings reflect the city’s 19th-century modernization efforts. (location)
Panoramic Viewpoint
Montevideo’s Panoramic Viewpoint, or Mirador Panorámico, is located on the 22nd floor of the city’s municipal building (Intendencia de Montevideo), offering one of the highest public vantage points in the capital. Opened to the public in 2001, the viewpoint provides a 360-degree view of the city, stretching from the historic port district to the beaches of Pocitos and the hills beyond. While the building itself is primarily administrative, the top floor has become a quiet spot for photographers and curious visitors. (location)
The entrance is located at the rear (south side) of the building and is free of charge. To reach the open-view elevator, you first walk through a chaotic, public-receiving office floor—an odd little detour. At the top, there’s a café and a souvenir shop, along with the observation deck enclosed in glass. Not ideal for photography, especially on a rainy day. A couple of coin telescopes stand by, along with dozens of coins that people have apparently tossed over the glass wall to land on the narrow ledge surrounding the deck. It didn’t look particularly safe. I doubt one in ten coins actually sticks the landing, and I imagine a coin falling from 77 meters on your head as being painful. Most interestingly, there was also an exhibition of old black-and-white photographs of Montevideo, from the era when guys wore top hats and girls visited segregated beach sections dressed head to toe.
The Rambla
The Rambla is a continuous coastal promenade that stretches over 22 km along the Río de la Plata, making it one of the longest uninterrupted waterfront sidewalks in the world. It winds through nearly every major neighborhood bordering the river, from the Old City to the residential suburb of Carrasco. Originally designed in the early 20th century as a civil engineering project to control erosion and improve access to the coast, it has since become an essential part of urban life. Since the constitution of Uruguay—just like in my home country, Greece—technically grants public access to all beaches, the Rambla doubles as a democratic space for everything from fishing to protests.
We went out for a walk along the Rambla later in the day, during what would have been sunset if the sun was visible at all behind the clouds. The grey sky, the muddy water, and the plain-brick condos framed by grassy patches made the area feel more reminiscent of England than Latin America. We followed the prom east for about a mile. Along that stretch, we came across two interesting sites:
Cubo del Sur
A small stone fortification with old cannons facing the Río de la Plata. It dates back to the late 18th century and was originally part of the city’s colonial defensive system, positioned at the southern corner of the old city walls. Though modest in size, the cube-shaped structure was strategically placed to monitor naval traffic and defend against pirate incursions. It was reconstructed in the 20th century using original stones, after decades of erosion and neglect. (location)
Dique Mauá
A historic dock and industrial site crowned by a clock tower. Built in the early 20th century, it originally served as part of a larger project to expand the port and industrial infrastructure of the city, including fuel storage and ship repair facilities. The site is named after Irineu Evangelista de Sousa, the Brazilian industrialist and banker better known as the Viscount of Mauá, who had significant commercial interests in Uruguay. The gate to the premises was locked, but I’m sure people—kids, if no one else—sneak in to have a closer look. (location)
As it was getting dark, we made our way back uptown for dinner and some drinks before calling it a day.
Day #3: Old Town Sightseeing
The sun finally made an appearance—if only for a brief spell—on our last day in Montevideo. Invigorated by the sight of it, we returned to the Rambla and headed west this time, beginning the day’s walk around the old town. Here are some of the points of interest we came across.
Old Sewer Vent
The Antiguo Respirador de Colector is an unusual, often-overlooked structure located along the Rambla. Built in the early 20th century, it was part of the city’s underground sewer and drainage system, specifically designed to release built-up gases and pressure from the stormwater collector beneath. Shaped like a factory chimney with an iron cap, it has an oddly decorative quality for such a utilitarian function, which has led many passersby to mistake it for a monument or ventilation shaft for something grander. What makes it interesting is how it blends civil engineering with public space, standing as a visible marker of the invisible infrastructure below. (location)
Port Market
Over to the north coast of the old town, beside the port of Montevideo, we visited the Port Market (Mercado del Puerto): a historic indoor market originally inaugurated in 1868. Its iron-and-glass structure was prefabricated in Liverpool and assembled on-site, reflecting the era’s industrial optimism and growing international trade. Today, it’s best known for its many parrillas—grill stands serving Uruguayan barbecue—but it also houses shops selling crafts, wine, and local products. An odd bit of trivia: despite appearances, it was never intended as a food market in the traditional sense, but rather as a commercial gallery inspired by European models. (location)
Manuel Ximénez y Gómez House Museum
This museum is a small, lesser-known historical site located in the old town’s northeastern corner. It preserves the 19th-century residence of Manuel Ximénez y Gómez: a lawyer, politician, and early cultural promoter in Uruguay. The house itself is a well-preserved example of domestic architecture from the post-independence period, featuring original furnishings, art, and documents that reflect the lifestyle of Montevideo’s intellectual elite in the mid-1800s. A unique detail is its quiet role as a gathering place for early literary and political circles, long before Uruguay developed formal cultural institutions. (location)
Gaucho and Currency Museum
The Gaucho and Currency Museum (Museo del Gaucho y de la Moneda) brings together two distinct aspects of Uruguayan identity: rural life and monetary history. Managed by the Banco República (BROU), the museum’s first floor showcases coins, banknotes, and financial documents tracing Uruguay’s economic development, while the upper floor focuses on the gaucho—the cowboy’s South American counterpart, the horseback cattle herder who became a national cultural icon. The gaucho exhibits include traditional clothing, silver-adorned saddles, mate sets, and weapons, highlighting both the artistry and functionality of rural craftsmanship. The museum is located in a former aristocratic home with ornate architecture that contrasts sharply with the rugged artifacts of the gaucho lifestyle inside. (location)
Saint Francisco de Asís Church
The Iglesia San Francisco de Asís is a neo-Gothic Catholic church located in the heart of the old town. Built between 1864 and 1870, it was one of the earliest examples of Gothic Revival architecture in Uruguay, featuring pointed arches, stained glass windows, and a tall central tower that still stands out amid the surrounding low-rise buildings. The church was designed by French architect Victor Rabú, who adapted European ecclesiastical styles to local materials and construction methods. The structure narrowly escaped demolition during periods of urban renewal, thanks in part to advocacy by local historians and architects. (location)
We ended up in the pedestrian part of the old town, where we had a coffee and a spontaneous Greek chat with two fellow Greeks who happened to sit next to us. This was the only time I came across any of my countrymen during our five months in South America. We took it easy for the rest of the day and got ourselves ready to depart for La Paloma at dawn.
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