It was gloomy, rainy daybreak I, finally, after five straight days and nights on the train, was setting foot in the city of Vladivostok for the first time. For some reason, the prospect of visiting this city was always deeply charming for my adventurous reveries; perhaps because I thought of it as the end of the world: the most distant place I could get to. My long-craved-for desire to visit Vladivostok had just come true. My expectations did not fall short. I immediately felt there is something one-of-a-kind about this city and fell in love with it.
There were many things that differentiated Vladivostok from any other Russian city I’ve been to so far, giving it its unique character…
One of the first things that drew my attention was the acclivity of the city. Unlike most other Russian cities, which are tediously flat, Vladivostok is built upon hills. Strolling up and down the city’s steep streets and narrow pathways felt more like being on some island of the Aegean Sea than in Russia.
And there is, of course, the sea. Leave aside Krasnodar – where I haven’t yet been – there is probably no other place in Russia with such decent beaches.
Another thing that impressed me about Vladivostok in comparison with the rest of Russia is its architecture. I don’t know how exactly to put it, but it felt somehow… less Soviet. The city center seems to almost entirely predate the Soviet era. Buildings there combine elements of various European and Asian elegant styles. And even on the outskirts, it wasn’t often I saw any of those typical, monstrous Krushchyovkas.
Something else that made me quite an impression, was the comparatively large numbers of junkies sauntering in Vladivostok’s streets. All Russian cities have large numbers of vagrants, too. But they most usually are alcoholics and not heroin addicts. This city’s streets were abounding with smack users, either begging around or dropping off at the waysides, who often were less than 15 years old.
Lastly but most importantly, I found this city much more multicultural and open to foreign influence than the average Russian city. Generally, Russia’s been giving me the impression of an excessively segregated society – especially since economy- and culture-wise it differs not much from the mainstream world. Migration other than from the ex-Soviet republics – which is still highly regulated – is virtually non-existent. Tourism flow into the country has been kept notoriously hindered by the 21st-century western world standards. And when it comes to the still large ethnic minorities within Russia, pains are being taken to quickly integrate them into the Russian cultural system while suppressing their own. In Vladivostok now, I was pleasantly surprised to see and hear peoples and tongues from all over the globe all around me. Chinese and Koreans, in particular, were more numerous than the Russians within certain areas in the center of the city.
I, after all, spent there about a week, split between some days before my departure to and some more after my arrival from Kamchatka. During those days, I got to have many long walks exploring the city. Here are some of the most interesting spots I discovered…
Vladivostok Railway Station
Even if you arrive in Vladivostok by other means than a train, the city’s Central Railway Station is a landmark you definitely have to visit. It probably is Vladivostok’s most recognizable symbol. It was originally built in 1891, simultaneously with the commencement of the works for the construction of the Trans-Siberian Railway: the world’s longest railroad. It has undergone several reconstructions during its long history. In 1912 it was rebuilt to resemble Moscow’s Yaroslavsky Terminal, whence the trains started their long way to the east. During the Soviet reign, the station was given an austere character, with all ornamentation reminiscent of Tsaric grandeur being taken down or covered by plaster. Today the building has been restored to its original magnificence. It is signalized by its bedecked with metallic coping tented roofs, the grandiose mosaics which decorate its walls, and the stela with its two-headed eagle (symbol of Russian power adopted by the Byzantine Empire) crown and the 9288 (the distance from Moscow to Vladivostok) inscription.
Square for the power of Soviet fighters in the Far East (Vladivostok Central Square)
Close by the Railway Station lies Vladivostok’s largest public square. It takes its name from the Monument to the Fighters for Soviet Power in the Far East which stands in it. That was raised in 1961 as a memorial to the valiant sacrifice and glorious victory of the brave Soviet fighters against the vile enemies of the Russian people, humanity, and the righteous universal order. Nowadays, having lost its grand idealistic symbolism, it is significant only to tourists, as a subject for their Instagram pictures; to skaters, as a grinding coping; and to pigeons, as a toilet.
A massive church, which is to become Vladivostok’s Transfiguration Cathedral is currently under construction in the square. During my visit there, most of the building was completed and they were at the stage of preparing to install the colossal gilded dome. I suppose it will not take long before it is inaugurated. Future visitors in Vladivostok will have the chance to marvel at this seemingly-becoming-gorgeous temple.
When I happened to be there on a Friday (but perhaps it’s set on other days as well), I got to witness a very cute outdoors market. All sorts of uncommon Russian delicacies were for sale there.
Admiral Fokin Street
Admiral Fokin Street is Vladivostok’s central pedestrian street and one of the oldest streets in the city. It was first named Peking Street, commemorating the 1860 Convention of Peking which definitively allotted the region to the control of the Russian Empire. It later was known as Trade Street due to the mostly Chinese shops which once stood there. It took its current name in 1964 after the long-time commander of the Soviet Pacific Fleet.
It was turned into a pedestrian street only at the beginning of the current century. Now it is a favorite place for locals, Chinese and other tourists, and junkies alike to hang out. The street is furnished with trees and flowers, a good deal of benches, antique street lamps, fountains and artworks, and plenty of cafe-restaurant-bars housed in delicate, century-old buildings.
Some of them I happened to visit were: the Cat and Clover Irish Pub (where I attended an English Conversation Club organized by a staff of the American Consulate of Vladivostok); Con Tempo Cafe: a really atmospheric place to enjoy a cup of coffee; and a stolovaya (self-service Russian cuisine restaurant) whose name I didn’t keep but they made really delicious food (it was situated somewhere by the eastern end of the pedestrian part of the street).
Yubilenyy Beach & Sportivnaya Harbor
By the western end of Admiral Fokin Street, there is Yubilenyy Beach. As a beach, it isn’t nearly as good as the really picturesque beaches you can find a little further out, but for being located in the very heart of the city, it is more than decent. A place renting pedalos is also to be found there. Above the beach, there is a long promenade with many nice cafes and restaurants.
Admiral Square
This a very nice garden, also located in the heart of the city, hosting some interesting landmarks. First, there is the Triumph Arch of the Crown Prince. It was originally constructed in 1891 to honor the visit of the then-heir Tsar Nicholas II. The Soviet authorities – just like they did with the Tsar himself – also dismantled this Arch of his. It was recreated in 2003 with the private funding of a local businessman. Then, there is also a graceful little church. The most well-known attraction of this part of the city is the S-56 Submarine: a World-War-II submarine turned into a museum. If you are either patient enough with long queues or lucky enough to not encounter one (I was neither), you can also get inside the vessel. Down to the dock, there is also a couple of other old warships on exhibition.
Golden Bridge
8000-some km west from San Francisco’s Golden Gate, Vladivostok has a bay of its own known as the Golden Horn. It is spanned by the Golden Bridge which, at the time of writing this, is the 14th longest cable-stayed bridge on the planet (737 m). It is conspicuously visible from pretty much any open area of the city. Some of the best views of it are to be seen from the city’s hilltops and the Crown Prince Embankment situated under the bridge. The world’s number-1 on the list of the longest cable-stayed bridges, Russky Bridge, is also located nearby. It connects the Russian mainland to Russky Island. The tops of its colossal towers are often visible from central Vladivostok.
Pushkin Theatre
This theatre, named after the brilliant national poet of Russia, is one of Vladivostok’s most renown stages: A small, cute building… nothing too awe-inspiring overall. But I heard about it, I very much like Pushkin, and I thought ‘why not?’ A statue of the great poet stands outside of it.
View of the Golden Horn Bay
There are plenty of good spots to enjoy some amazing views of Vladivostok and its bay. One of the best viewpoints I found is situated in the yard of the Far East Federal University, right up the slope after Golden Bridge. You can reach up there either by the stair paths or getting a ride on the cablecar.
So passed the days and on a rainy afternoon, I was boarding a train to Khabarovsk, starting on my way back to Europe.
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