Iguazú Falls (spelled Iguaçu in Portuguese) is one of the world’s largest and most powerful waterfall systems. It straddles the border between Brazil and Argentina with around 275 separate cascades spread over nearly 2.7 kilometers. The falls are part of the Iguazú/Iguaçu National Parks, both UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and sit at the meeting point of the Iguazú and Paraná rivers. The name “Iguazú” comes from the Guaraní words for “big” and “water,” which feels fitting given that in peak flow, more than 1.5 million liters per second plunge over the edge.
A standout feature is the “Devil’s Throat,” a dramatic U-shaped chasm where spray rises high enough to drench visitors on nearby walkways. Local wildlife—including coatis, toucans, and howler monkeys—often appears along the trails. The coatis are notorious for attempting to steal snacks from unsuspecting tourists. The falls have inspired myths, films, and even diplomatic debates over the years, cementing their place as both a natural wonder and a cultural icon of South America.
We couldn’t have missed this natural wonder during our 2025 South American trip. After spending three months on the Brazilian coast, we headed to Iguazú later, coming from the northern Argentinian hinterland. We settled in Puerto Iguazú—Argentina’s entry city to the national park—for three full days. We used one to visit Iguazú Falls from the Argentinian side, another from the Brazilian side, and the last spare day to explore the city of Puerto Iguazú, which was in itself a worthwhile destination. In this post, I’ll share the trip report of this visit and some of the best photos I captured in the area. You’ll also find all the useful information and tips you might need if you’re planning to see the waterfalls from both sides.

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Iguazú Falls: Argentina or Brazil?
If you’re wondering from which side you should visit Iguazú Falls, the answer is simple: both. There’s no real dilemma here. If you have time for a one-day visit, you can just as easily stay another day and cross over to see the falls from the opposite side. Whether you’re based in Argentina or Brazil, it’s straightforward to take a day trip to the neighboring country’s national park—and it’s absolutely worth it. The perspectives are strikingly different.


If, for any reason, you absolutely have to pick just one side, I’d recommend Argentina. While the ticket is pricier—about $34 compared to $22 in Brazil—the hiking trails are far more extensive and the viewpoints much more varied. The Brazilian side is worth considering only if budget is your main concern.
If you’re planning to visit Iguazú from both sides—as you should—you might still be wondering which side to base yourself on. We chose Puerto Iguazú in Argentina mainly because it’s generally cheaper. Foz do Iguaçu, on the other hand, is more developed and offers a wider range of accommodation as well as more activities beyond the waterfalls.
If cost is your primary concern, you may also consider staying in Ciudad del Este, Paraguay, where prices are dramatically lower than in either Brazil or Argentina. The city sits just across the Paraná River from Foz do Iguaçu and is within day-trip range of both national parks, albeit a potentially long day due to slow border crossings.
Accommodation near Iguazú Falls
If you’re looking for budget-friendly accommodation in Puerto Iguazú, I can recommend the place we stayed in: Terra Iguazú Apart Hotel. The property offers spacious, two-story units that are fully equipped with everything you need for a comfortable stay. They also have a swimming pool, and the location is convenient: just a 10–15 minute walk from both the city center and the bus station. A great blend of value, comfort, and practicality for exploring both sides of the Iguazú Falls.

If you’re looking for something more upscale, here are some good options:
In Puerto Iguazú
- Mid‑Range Favorite – Mercure Iguazu Hotel Iru (~$153/night). Nestled in the lush Iryapú Jungle, this elegant hotel offers spacious, air‑conditioned rooms, an outdoor pool, and free Wi‑Fi throughout. Ideal for those seeking modern comfort with a tranquil rainforest vibe.
- Luxury Splurge – Gran Meliá Iguazú (~$696/night). The epitome of indulgence, this upscale hotel sits inside Iguazú National Park and features an infinity pool, spa, multiple on‑site restaurants, and some rooms with balconies overlooking the waterfalls. Perfect for travelers who want exclusive proximity to the falls in a sumptuous setting.
In Foz do Iguaçu
- Ultra‑Budget Option – Hotel Vivere Cataratas (~US$33/night). A simple, centrally located hotel offering clean rooms and free parking—perfect for travelers looking to stretch their budget while staying within town.
- Mid‑Range Pick – Hotel Bella Italia (around US$125/night). This 4‑star hotel boasts an outdoor pool, restaurant, and bar, plus air‑conditioned rooms with Wi‑Fi—all just one block from Cataratas JL Shopping Mall. A solid choice for comfort and convenience.
- Luxury Choice – Belmond Hotel das Cataratas, A Belmond Hotel, Iguassu Falls. The only luxury hotel located within Brazil’s Iguaçu National Park, this is classic five-star elegance and the ultimate in immersion. With Portuguese-colonial styling, heated outdoor pools, spa and tennis facilities, and exclusive after-hours access to the falls, it offers both ambiance and privilege. It’s perfect for travelers who want a serene, indulgent stay with breathtaking proximity to the waterfalls.
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Should You Join a Tour of Iguazú Falls or Visit on Your Own?
You definitely don’t need to join a tour or hire a guide to visit Iguazú Falls. It’s perfectly allowed—and surprisingly easy—to explore on your own. That’s exactly what we did, not just to save money, but mainly because we prefer setting our own pace and discovering things as we go. Read my trip reports below for all the info and tips you’ll need to plan your own independent adventure.
That said, there are many valid reasons you might prefer to join a guided tour. For one, many tours include hotel pick-up and skip-the-line entry, which can save precious time. A tour also means a hands-off approach—you don’t have to worry about transport connections, ticketing, or the sequence of trails. Guides can enrich your visit with local knowledge, wildlife spotting, and fascinating backstories you’d miss on your own. It’s also a social experience, letting you share the awe with fellow travelers and maybe make a few friends. Some tours cover both the Argentine and Brazilian sides in a single day—something that’s logistically tricky, if possible, to achieve on your own. Many even bundle in boat rides up the river toward the base of the falls; while you can arrange these independently, you’ll need to book early in the day to secure an afternoon slot. In short, if you want convenience, efficiency, and a touch of curated storytelling, a guided tour might be worth the extra cost.
Tour packages start from as low as $18 and go up to around $200, including park fees and extras. Here are a few options to check out:
If you’re up for an extraordinary experience, you can also take a helicopter ride over the falls—a breathtaking way to grasp their sheer scale and the lush expanse of rainforest around them.
Visiting Iguazú Falls from Argentina
The sun returned the morning after the rainy day of our arrival in Puerto Iguazú. Brimming with anticipation, we packed the essentials—lunch, cameras, and raincoats—and set off on our first hike to Iguazú Falls from the Argentinian side.
From Puerto Iguazú to the National Park
Buses to the national park entrance leave Puerto Iguazú’s main terminal every 15 minutes (every 30 minutes later in the day) starting at 07:30. When we visited in spring 2025, tickets cost 7,000 ARS (≈$5.30) each way and were sold in at least two different offices in the station—one accepted cards, the other cash only. We caught the bus at 08:50, and it took 20 minutes to cover the 18 km to the national park entrance.

National Park Entrance
Strangely, the queue wasn’t too long at the park’s single ticket booth—probably because most visitors come with tours or buy their tickets online. We ended up doing the same, but only after waiting in line for nothing; they accepted only physical cards, not digital cards stored on a phone, for some absurd reason. So we purchased ours through the park’s official site via the QR code posted on-site. The process was laughably inefficient, forcing us to wade through successive pages of filling superfluous fields. The ticket came to 45,000 ARS (≈$34) for foreigners. Argentinians pay 15,000, and Misiones residents pay 5,000.

After the gate, we passed a small plaza with souvenir shops and a café selling tiny water bottles for €3 and food for I-don’t-even-want-to-know-how-much. Better to bring your own lunch and water. Off to the side was an area marked as Jaguar Territory, where they probably once kept jaguars in cages, before animal rights awareness became widespread enough to force their release.
Iguazú Falls Train
Shortly after the plaza is the first railway station for the tourist train to the Devil’s Mouth, 3.5 km from the park entrance. The ride is included in the entry fee, but you still need to get a paper ticket with a fixed time slot from the booth to board. You can take the train to the second station, at the start of the hiking trails, and hop on again later to continue to Devil’s Mouth. We skipped that first stretch and walked the one-kilometer Green Trail through green rainforest to the second station.

The Coatis
A band of coatis hung out around the second station, boldly approaching tourists in hopes of a bite. These raccoon relatives are common in the Iguazú area and easily recognized by their long, ringed tails and flexible snouts. They’re opportunistic omnivores, perfectly happy to rummage through bags or snatch snacks right from your hand if you’re not paying attention. Though they look cute, they can bite if provoked, and park signs warn visitors not to feed them—for their health and yours.

Speaking of park signs, two more things they prohibited were swimming—which I get—and piggyback rides—which I don’t.

Hiking Trails
The trail network is divided into two independent loop routes: the Lower Trail and the Upper Trail, both starting from the second train station. All paths consist of broad metallic footbridges with steps and pose no physical challenge whatsoever. They feature benches and frequent viewing platforms, which I initially thought were crowded, but later revised that opinion when our visit to the Brazilian side forced me to raise the bar on my definition of “crowded.”

The Lower Trail of Iguazú Falls
We started with the Lower Trail, a meandering loop that dips closer to the jungle and feels more intimate than the Upper one. The watchtower (Torre Tanque) was closed during our visit, but the trail still offered plenty to linger over. Several viewpoints opened to sweeping vistas of the main falls in the distance, veiled in drifting mist, their thunderous rumble a constant soundtrack. Between those grand scenes, we found ourselves stopping for the smaller treasures—like the in-woods cascades of Salto dos Hermanas and Salto Chico, where the water spilled in delicate curtains through dense green.



The path itself was alive with detail: thick tangles of tropical plants, flashes of color from countless butterflies, and the occasional unsettling sight of massive spiders crouched in their webs. It was a sensory overload where every step seemed to reveal another angle, another sound, another tiny slice of the rainforest’s drama.
The Upper Trail of Iguazú Falls
We continued to the Upper Trail following the very lip of the cliffs, offering a completely different perspective on the falls. To one side, the ground drops away into a succession of thunderous cascades, each one exploding into mist far below. You can lean over the railings and watch the water pour right out from under your feet, its roar vibrating through the metal. On the other side, in sharp contrast, the river stretches out across a calm, sunlit plateau. Here the water barely seems to move, gliding around dark volcanic rocks where turtles sun themselves and large aquatic birds stand poised in the shallows, their silhouettes sharp against the glittering surface.


The Service Area
Having spent a couple of hours thoroughly walking all the trails, we headed back to the train station and picked up our ticket. With about an hour to spare before our time slot, we wandered around the facilities zone. The Gran Meliá Iguazú Hotel loomed nearby, its terraced swimming pools and sports courts peeking over manicured lawns toward the falls. Around it, a scattering of souvenir shops displayed everything from fridge magnets to carved wooden toucans. There were clean public toilets, and a buffet restaurant serving food for 3,500 pesos per 100 grams, making every extra spoonful feel like a calculated investment.

The Devil’s Mouth
We were lucky to share the train car with a few kids and small-boned adults on the way out (on the return, we ended up with a bunch of strapping lads, and things got tight).
After a brief ride, we hopped off at the start of the boardwalk to the Devil’s Mouth—a one-kilometer stretch built directly over the river. The water flowed calmly beneath our feet, its surface broken only by the occasional rock or stand of reeds, as the sound of the falls ahead grew steadily louder. Along the way, Plush-crested Jays flitted from railings to branches, watching us with bold, intelligent eyes and swooping in close whenever someone rustled a snack wrapper.


We also met dozens of “88” butterflies (Diaethria anna, or Anna’s eighty-eight), named for the delicate black-and-white pattern on their wings. They landed fearlessly on our hands, unfurling their long proboscises to sip sweat for its salt. The sensation was ticklish at first, then left a faint burning after a while, though that might have been my imagination. One unidentified creature, however, definitely wasn’t imaginary; it bit my arm and left an angry red mark as a souvenir.

At the Devil’s Mouth itself, the calm water of the upper river transformed into a churning abyss. A dense, wind-whipped spray hit us in the face like a never-ending rainstorm, drenching clothes and cameras in seconds. The view was absolutely breathtaking—a semi-circular wall of white water, roaring so loudly it drowned out every other sound, plunging into the misty depths below. It was impossible not to just stand there, soaked to the skin, grinning in awe at the sheer power of it all.



Taking the train back to the entrance and the bus back to Puerto Iguazú, we were back in our hotel in the afternoon, deserving a good rest before tomorrow’s trip to Brazil.
Iguazú National Park Video
Iguazú National Park Photos
View (and feel free to use) all my photographs from Iguazú National Park in higher resolution.
Visiting Iguazú Falls from Brazil
Once again lucky with the weather, we left our place early and headed to the Brazilian Iguaçu National Park across the border.
From Puerto Iguazú to the Brazilian Side of Iguazú Falls
Buses from Puerto Iguazú to the Brazilian side of the falls leave the city’s central bus terminal every hour between 07:30 and 16:30. Tickets cost 6,000 ARS (≈$4.50), slightly cheaper than for the Argentinian side, reflecting the slightly shorter distance of 16 km. We stopped for immigration control only when exiting Argentina and were through in no time. Just half an hour after departure, we stepped off at the gate of Iguaçu National Park.
Iguaçu National Park Entrance
Already at the gate, it was obvious that the Brazilian side was much more crowded than the Argentinian. Then again, it might as well have been a Sunday; I rarely keep track of the week and don’t quite remember which day we visited each national park.

A whole array of ticket booths and vending machines kept the human flow moving, preventing long lines. The manned booths accepted cash only, so we bought our tickets from the machines with a card. They cost 117 BRL (≈$21.50) per person.
The national park gate is 9.5 km from the waterfalls, and commuting between them is handled by the park’s own shuttles. Unlike the ticket booths, there was only one boarding platform, and even though the shuttles departed nonstop as soon as they filled up, a marathon, meandering queue formed in front of it. Tickets came in 30-minute time slots to ease the boarding process.
We had an hour to wait until our turn, so we grabbed a coffee and looked around the area. Several restaurants, souvenir shops, and tour agencies operated within the visitor center. After an extra half hour in the queue, we boarded the shuttle.

Even though the wide, straight road was used exclusively by the local shuttles, they drove at an excruciatingly slow pace. It took a significant while to finally reach the trailhead.

Iguaçu National Park Hike
The shuttle dropped us off in front of the national park’s posh hotel—a pink colonial mansion overlooking the chasm. Right across the road, the trail to the waterfalls begins.
In contrast to Argentina’s extensive trail network, here there’s only a single one-mile route running along the cliff edge. Moreover, it’s also narrower. We had to constantly squeeze past selfie-taking tourists and food-begging coatis. The trail passes several viewing platforms with stunning views of the canyon and multiple waterfalls, but the most impressive is by far the last.


Salto Santa María Viewpoint
The Iguaçu National Park trail leads to a palisaded boardwalk that stretches to the rim of the booming Santa María Waterfall. The natural spectacle was nothing short of hair-raising—a shimmering rainbow arched through the everlasting shower, while countless cascades plunged all around us, their combined roar vibrating through the air and underfoot. It felt like standing in the center of a vast, living amphitheater of water.

The infuriating spectacle was the congestion, which was downright insane. The national park authorities didn’t have in place any system whatsoever to regulate the traffic, not even a simple belt barrier in the middle to separate the currents. A tourist horde careened onto the narrow boardwalk at whim, jostling and engaging in quite literal selfie battles over the waist-tall railing. Dangerous shit. At the end of the boardwalk, where the railing hangs over the abyss, I’m surprised they haven’t had a tragedy yet


On the bank beside the boardwalk, there’s also a view tower with an elevator. Its usage is included in the park entry ticket, but the queue seemed hours-long, so we skipped it.
The trail terminates at an open space above the waterfall of Santa María, where you’ll find a restaurant, restrooms, the helipad for helicopter tours, and the return shuttle station. After enjoying our packed lunch on a shaded bench overlooking the natural wonder, we headed back to Puerto Iguazú slowly.
Iguaçu National Park Video
Iguaçu National Park Photos
View (and feel free to use) all my photographs from Iguaçu National Park in higher resolution.
What to See in Puerto Iguazú City
On our spare day in Puerto Iguazú, besides lounging by the pool at our guesthouse, we went out for a long, aimless walk around the city. The highlight was Hito Tres Fronteras (location), the point where Argentina, Brazil, and Paraguay meet. From the lookout, the view is nothing short of spectacular—two wide rivers converging in a canyon-like junction, with each country’s shoreline clearly visible and the international bridges stretching away like ribbons over the water.

A few steps up the riverside road, we saw the Anfiteatro Ramón Ayala (location), a modest open-air venue above the river. A little further along, the Mirador Álvar Núñez (location) offered another postcard scene: a broad sweep of river, and below us, a picturesque old riverboat moored along the bank, its paint sun-faded but full of character.

The city center itself came alive after dark, flooded with lights and filled with a friendly bustle. Families strolled arm in arm, couples lingered over ice cream, and the smell of sizzling meat drifted from the many parrilla restaurants. Buzzy bars spilled live music into the streets, everything from soulful guitar to lively folk tunes, creating an atmosphere that felt warm and infectious—a reminder that Puerto Iguazú is more than just a gateway to the falls.



Puerto Iguazú Video
Puerto Iguazú Photos
View (and feel free to use) all my photographs from Puerto Iguazú in higher resolution.

