From Villa de Leyva to Barichara by Bus

After six unforgettable days in Villa de Leyva, we continued our journey through Colombia to our next destination: the officially designated magic town of Barichara.

Yellow truck on a narrow cobblestone street lined with white colonial buildings in Barichara, Colombia — A colorful ride through Barichara’s colonial streets

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Barichara lies about 200 km north of Villa de Leyva. You can get there by public transport, using a long and uncomfortable—though cheap—combination of local buses. That’s the route we took: the journey cost 69,500 COP per person and took about six hours. If you’d rather skip the hassle and don’t mind spending more, you can hire a long-distance taxi or arrange a private transfer for $100–130. That option makes good sense if you’re traveling in a group of three or four to split the cost.

The common bus route involves two changes: one in Tunja and another in San Gil. Buses from Villa de Leyva to Tunja run every 15 minutes starting at 5:45 a.m. We arrived at the Villa de Leyva bus terminal (📍map) around 6 a.m., planning to catch the first bus to Tunja and begin our journey. But once there, we were informed of an alternative route which, although it required one extra transfer, would get us to Barichara slightly faster and at a lower cost. So we took it.

We caught the first bus toward Arcabuco, a 13,500-COP ride per person in a small, crammed van that quickly dashed any hopes of falling back asleep. Much of the route followed a bumpy dirt road, the suspension working overtime as we rattled through the countryside. Still, the discomfort came with a payoff: a scenic drive through quiet rural settings, past scattered farms and rolling green hills. Low clouds and morning mist hung over the mountains, softening the landscape and making the early start feel almost worthwhile.

We were dropped off at a bus stop on the main road just outside Arcabuco. There, we were told that a direct bus to San Gil would pass in about two hours. Waiting that long made little sense, though, so we followed the better advice: catch the next bus to Barbosa instead and change there for San Gil.

People waiting with luggage at a roadside bus stop in Arcabuco, Colombia, with mountains and misty hills in the background — Waiting for the bus in Arcabuco

That leg cost 14,000 COP per person, and for the first few kilometers we had to stand, wedged into the aisle as the van pulled away. Seats eventually freed up, but any renewed hope of sleep quickly evaporated. Traditional music blasted relentlessly from the speakers, competing with an improvised soundscape of TikToks playing out loud from multiple phones. The result was a chaotic but oddly telling slice of everyday Colombian bus travel.

We were dropped off in the center of Barbosa and promptly led by an agent to another pickup point just around the corner. There was just enough time to grab a quick coffee and a couple of cakes from a roadside shop before the next bus departed. This was the longest leg of the journey, costing 35,000 COP per person. Mercifully, it was also the most comfortable—spacious and quiet enough that we slept through most of it.

Man in a yellow shirt and cap stands by roadside traffic in Barbosa, with a bus and taxi passing a bocadillos shop. — By the roadside in Barbosa

We got off at San Gil’s main terminal and immediately took a taxi—7,000 COP—to the smaller regional station known as the Terminalito. From there, we quickly boarded a bus to Barichara, an 8,000-COP ride that took roughly half an hour. We stood for most of it. Once near the town, the bus began making custom stops whenever someone asked to be let off. We hopped off at the closest point and walked downhill to our cozy accommodation, dropping our luggage before finally heading out to explore the town.

Minibuses parked under a covered terminal bay in San Gil, Colombia, with route signs above the bays and a few people standing nearby — San Gil’s bus terminal

Accommodation & Activities in Barichara

Explore stays on the map below, or check out my full guide to accommodation in Barichara.

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