The villages of Tzoumerka are scattered across the slopes and valleys of the Athamanika Mountains, blending naturally into the dramatic terrain of Epirus. Built mostly from local stone and timber, these settlements retain a strong sense of tradition, with architecture that reflects both practicality and centuries-old craftsmanship. Many are perched on steep inclines or tucked into forested ravines, shaped as much by the landscape as by history. Life in these mountain communities moves at a slower rhythm, closely tied to seasonal changes and local customs. Narrow paths, old watermills, and quiet squares give a sense of timelessness, while the surrounding mountains offer a constant backdrop of cliffs, rivers, and dense greenery. The overall atmosphere is one of quiet resilience and connection to place.
Owing to their unique character and majestic natural setting, the Tzoumerka region is becoming an increasingly popular destination for both Greek and international travelers seeking to experience a different side of Greece—beyond the crowded beaches and iconic blue-and-white island houses. The villages offer solid tourism infrastructure and countless opportunities for nature-based activities such as hiking and rafting.
We visited the area for the first time in August 2025, when we were hosted by a good friend of mine in the village of Elliniko, in northern Tzoumerka. We’d have loved to have more time—and shall surely return someday—but this time, we had only a week, which we split between Tzoumerka and other parts of Epirus like Ioannina, Zagorochoria, and Mount Tymfi.
In Tzoumerka, we did the must-do rafting trip down the Arachthos River and set aside one day for a road trip through some of the most emblematic villages and sights of the region. In this post, I’ll share the itinerary from that trip.
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Accommodation in Tzoumerka
Whether you’re planning to change lodgings every night as you tour through Tzoumerka and Epirus, or prefer a cozy base to explore from, you’ll find some of the best options below. I’d especially recommend my friend’s charming traditional guesthouse in the village of Kostitsi, should you happen to pass through.
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Distances in Tzoumerka are much greater than what a look at the map might have you believe. To take full advantage of the day, we left Elliniko at the crack of dawn and headed south.
Our first planned stop was the Plaka Bridge, but we soon discovered that the direct road there was under maintenance. To reach it, we had to take a long detour—down through the bottom of the Arachthos Gorge and back up again—before finally descending to our destination. The extra time and petrol were well spent, though, as the detour treated us to spectacular views and even took us past another historic bridge.
Politsa Bridge
Politsa Bridge spans the Arachthos River near the village of Ampelochori. Built in 1863, it was an important crossing point for local communities, connecting villages and trade routes across the rugged terrain. The bridge is a classic example of Epirus stone craftsmanship, with its graceful single arch rising above the river’s flow. Although no longer used for transport, it remains a striking landmark in the landscape, especially when viewed against the backdrop of the surrounding mountains. Today, it is appreciated as part of the region’s network of preserved stone bridges that testify to both the skill of local builders and the challenges of life in these mountains.
Plaka Bridge
We then made it to the region’s most iconic bridge. Built in 1866, Plaka Bridge was once the largest single-arch stone bridge in the Balkans, with an impressive span of 40 meters. The bridge has witnessed turbulent moments in modern Greek history, serving as a boundary line and a negotiation point during conflicts in the 19th and 20th centuries. In 2015, it collapsed after heavy flooding, but a major restoration effort brought it back to its former state by 2020, using traditional techniques and original materials where possible.
A sign on the spot warned that the bridge was to be crossed at one’s own peril. Still, along with plenty of other visitors, we tested it and found it perfectly steady. A small café doubling as a local-produce shop stood by the bridge, tempting us to linger, but the earlier detour had already set us back. In any case, we would return here the next day to catch our rafting tour.
Agnanta Village
Amid forests, streams, and steep ridges, our next stop was the village of Agnanta. Traditionally a center for agriculture and herding, it has retained much of its stone-built character, with narrow streets and houses that reflect the local architecture. The village is known for its natural setting, where chestnut and plane trees dominate the landscape, and the sound of running water is never far away. Like many mountain communities in the region, Agnanta has seen population shifts over time, but it continues to serve as a gateway to the broader Tzoumerka area.
Pramanta Village & Anemotrypa Cave
A short distance ahead, we reached Pramanta: the largest settlement in the Tzoumerka mountains, which serves as a central hub for the surrounding area. Set at around 850 meters altitude, it combines traditional stone architecture with the practicalities of a community that has long been a meeting point for trade and travel. The village square, shaded by a centuries-old plane tree, is a focal point of local life and gatherings. It was particularly lively compared to all other villages we visited in the region. Nearby natural landmarks, such as the Anemotrypa Cave and mountain springs, highlight the strong connection between daily life and the landscape.
Anemotrypa Cave is located beside the main road just before the south entrance to Pramanta. Its name translates to “wind hole,” referring to the natural airflow that moves through its chambers. The interior consists of a compact network of halls and corridors filled with stalactites and stalagmites, as well as an underground river that flows audibly beneath the formations. Although the explored section is only about 350 meters long, it offers a vivid glimpse into the region’s karst landscape. The cave is managed as a show cave, with lighting and pathways that make it accessible while preserving its natural features.
We had intended to go inside, but upon arrival we learned that entry is only possible during scheduled guided tours. The next one wasn’t starting for nearly an hour, and we already had other plans. FYI, the tours run between 8 am and 4 pm, and tickets cost €5.
Kipina Monastery
Our next stop was the Monastery of Kipina, a 13th-century Orthodox monastery built dramatically into the side of a vertical cliff. It was founded in 1212 during the Despotate of Epirus and dedicated to the Dormition of the Virgin Mary. The monastery’s most striking feature is its integration into the rock face, making it nearly invisible from afar—an intentional design for protection against invaders. One of its hidden secrets is a small cave behind the altar that was reportedly used as a shelter or escape route during times of conflict. The surrounding region is remote and mountainous, with few tourists and limited infrastructure, which has helped preserve its original character.
Kipina Monastery is located about 7 km before the village of Kalarrytes. We parked just below it to photograph it from that angle, then walked the 200 meters along the road to the official parking area and the start of the cliffside paved path leading to its entrance. The monastery is no longer inhabited by monks but is open to visitors, nominally from 8 am to sundown.
Limited parts of the monastery were accessible, including a balcony with a nice view of the rest of the structure, the vestibule, and the cave entrance. Allegedly, additional areas can be accessed by prior arrangement. The vestibule has been turned into a shop, staffed by a single man who also answered questions about the monastery upon request. Among the various religious artifacts and traditional food products on offer, we bought a nip of pomegranate-flavored tsipouro.
The cave entrance was sealed with barrier tape, but entry is still allowed at your own peril (and with your own torch). The monastery’s ancient icon is kept in the first chamber. The cave stretches for 240 meters and features both stalactites and stalagmites. Beneath the monastery, we also noticed another narrow cave without end in sight, likely leading up to the main structure.
Kouiassa Waterfall
Continuing on our way toward Kalarrytes, we stopped just below the village for a short hike. A 1-kilometer trail through dense greenery led us to a series of crystal-clear pools and burbling waterfalls—an absolutely heavenly little spot. It would have been perfect for a dip, if not for the cloudy, chilly weather. A small, cozy café also operates near the waterfall, but we decided to go for a coffee in the village instead.
Kalarrytes
Overlooking the stunning surrounding wilderness from an altitude of around 1,170 meters, Kalarrytes is an incredibly remote and picturesque village. Once a prosperous center of silversmithing during the Ottoman era, it was home to several Vlach families whose craftsmanship gained fame across the Balkans—some even trace the roots of the Bulgari jewelry dynasty back to this village. Today, Kalarrytes has only a handful of permanent residents, but its stone-built houses, cobbled paths, and arched bridges preserve the architectural style of its peak centuries. While the infrastructure is minimal, a few small cafés and guesthouses operate seasonally.
We sat for a coffee and a sweet at this lovely, view-blessed café, then walked around the entire village, and made our way toward our final destination.
Syrrako
Syrrako is another of Tzoumerka’s most beautiful villages, situated at about 1,200 meters. Along with Kalarrytes, it was historically known for its wealth and craftsmanship, particularly in wool production and commerce during the 18th and 19th centuries. The entire village is built from local stone—houses, roofs, alleys, and fountains—which gives it a cohesive and distinct architectural character. Syrrako is also notable as the birthplace of Greek poet Kostas Krystallis, whose work often referenced the natural and pastoral life of the region. Cars cannot enter the village, so visitors must leave their vehicles at the entrance and walk in, which adds to its preserved atmosphere. Despite its remote location, Syrrako sees a modest number of visitors, especially during summer and holidays, when some old family homes are reopened seasonally.
There is a hiking trail connecting Kalarrytes and Syrrako—through the bottom of the gorge that separates them—in just over an hour. We would’ve loved to take it another day, but today we were short on time. Not that the car ride was much quicker (about 40 minutes), but at least we didn’t have to return the same way.
We made the most of the remaining daylight by wandering Syrrako’s quaint, cobbled paths, and just before dusk, we settled at a tavern on the central square for a succulent dinner. Through the deep mountain darkness, we eventually completed our circle back to Elliniko and rested before tomorrow’s rafting adventure.
Tours & Activities in Tzoumerka
Photos
View (and feel free to use) all my photographs from Plaka Bridge, Agnanta, Pramanta, Kipina Monastery, Kouiassa Waterfall, Kalarrytes, and Syrrako in higher resolution.
