In early August 2024, we began our month-long journey through Central Asia, stepping off the plane into the hot, dazzling noon at Samarkand International Airport.
One of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the region, Samarkand holds immense historical and cultural significance. As a principal nexus of the Silk Road, it served as a vital crossroads for trade and cultural exchange for centuries. Its strategic importance drew legendary conquerors, from Alexander the Great to Genghis Khan. Over its long and glorious history—especially during its time as the capital of the Timurid Empire—Samarkand amassed a remarkable heritage of impressive architecture. Today, millions of visitors are drawn to the city each year to marvel at its timeless splendor.
We among them allocated two days to explore it. In this post, I’m sharing our general experiences, sightseeing itinerary, photos, video, and tips that you might find helpful if you plan to visit Samarkand within a similar timeframe.
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Airport Taxi & Money Exchange
We had done no prior research before arrival. As soon as we left the airside, we instinctively fended off the first wave of advancing taxi drivers and looked for public transport signs. Then, they quoted their standard price: 60,000 som (≈4.5 euros) to anywhere in the city center. I didn’t bother to figure out whether there was a bus. It wasn’t worth the effort.
If you prefer to have someone waiting for you at the airport, you can arrange a private transfer here.
A currency exchange office operated in the airport hall, but our driver suggested stopping along the way for a better rate. So we got in the car and enjoyed the ride.
Initial Impressions of Samarkand
The first thing I noticed as we drove from the airport was that as much as 90% of all the city’s cars were white Chevrolets. The color wasn’t surprising—it’s almost universally preferred in hot, Middle Eastern climates. But the brand caught me off guard. As I haven’t been to the US, I had never seen such a high concentration of American cars—new ones at least, except antiques in Cuba. And then, of all places, I saw them in Uzbekistan: a former Soviet republic in the heart of Asia. It turns out there was a deal with GM to establish a local production plant following the dissolution of the Soviet Union.
As for the rest, Samarkand’s outskirts matched my imagination for a gas-rich, ex-Soviet Muslim country. Beyond the broad, uncongested boulevards lay a blend of decrepit Soviet-era apartment blocks and hypermodern residential buildings, interspersed with mosques.
Accommodation
We stayed at the Omptimist Guesthouse, and I recommend you do too if you’re on a budget. It’s a casual house of a local family renting out some simple but cozy rooms around a chicken-populated garden. The only downside is the distance from the center, but taxis cost next to nothing. The neighborhood is quiet, and the neighbors friendly.
The elderly paterfamilias speaks good English and is very kind, accommodating, and indeed optimistic chap. In case you play chess, do not omit to challenge his two grandchildren. They are prodigies; the younger has won a national title, and the older an international one. Playing the first I got by with 1-1 because he got overconfident and reckless after routing me in the first match. His 2300-rated brother pulverized me in three games without breaking a sweat.
If, again, you’re seeking something more upscale and exceptional, consider Hotel Minor, which boasts extraordinary views of Registan Square, or Old Palace Hotel, centrally located in a beautifully restored traditional Uzbek mansion.
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Food
After a bit of rest, we went out for lunch. We took our host’s recommendation of local restaurant around the corner. We got a massive platter of lamb plov—Uzbekistan’s national dish: rice with tender meat, carrots, onions, and a fragrant blend of spices—for like €4. If you’re in the area, make sure to check it out. Here’s the location.
Wherever you are in the city, it’s best to seek out local spots like this. Unless you specifically enjoy fine serving and a photogenic atmosphere and stuff, there’s little reason to eat at the touristy restaurants. The prices are three times higher, and the portions proportionally smaller.
Moving around
Taxis in the city operate at a fixed rate of 15,000 som (≈1 euro) for any trip within city limits. As is my habit, I always make sure to either confirm the price with the driver before boarding or carry the exact amount to give him without discussion in case he attempts to rip me off. However, in this city, such precautions proved unnecessary. In my experience, all the drivers were honest. Taxis are easy to stop on any main road, but you can always get the first driver’s number just in case.
We used taxis to get back and forth between our guesthouse and the center. Once downtown, we moved between sights on foot and on our own. If you want to take better advantage of your time, consider joining an organized sightseeing tour like these:
Afternoon & Evening Sightseeing on Day 1
After the temperature dropped a bit, we headed to the center for some sightseeing. We took a route along the following places of interest.
Mausoleum of Tamerlane
The Mausoleum of Tamerlane, also known as Gur-e-Amir, is an architectural masterpiece in Samarkand, serving as the final resting place of the famed conqueror and his family. This majestic structure, crowned by a striking ribbed blue dome, features intricate tilework and impressive Islamic artistry. Inside, the graves of Tamerlane and his descendants rest beneath ornate stone markers, evoking a sense of history and reverence. The site also has a vibrant yard with stalls selling souvenirs and an underground shop for unique finds. Entry costs around 40,000 Uzbekistani som, making it both accessible and unforgettable for history enthusiasts.
Rukhabad Complex
The Rukhabad Complex in Samarkand is a serene ensemble that includes the Rukhabad Mausoleum, a historic mosque, and picturesque fountains, offering a peaceful retreat in the heart of the city. The mausoleum, built in the 14th century by Amir Timur, is a simple brick structure that holds the tomb of Sheikh Burhan al-Din Sagarji, a respected scholar. Nearby, the mosque complements the mausoleum with its spiritual ambiance, while the fountains add a refreshing charm to the surroundings. This compact yet meaningful site provides insight into Samarkand’s blend of history, spirituality, and community life, perfect for a leisurely visit.
Registan Square at Night
Registan Square is one of the most iconic landmarks of Uzbekistan and a masterpiece of Islamic architecture. This historic square is framed by three grand madrassas: Ulugh Beg Madrassa, Tilya-Kori Madrassa, and Sher-Dor Madrassa, each adorned with intricate mosaics, soaring arches, and golden domes. Once a bustling marketplace during the Silk Road era, it served as a center for commerce, education, and public gatherings. Today, the square is a stunning symbol of Samarkand’s rich heritage and grandeur.
Among several recommendations, our host’s top tip was to visit Registan Square at both day and night, even though we only had two days in the city. We made it there just in time for sunset, grabbed some juice and watermelon scoops from the side café, and savored the breathtaking transition of nightfall over this majestic site.
Birds burst into song in the trees above. The monumental buildings were lit beautifully with a serene green hue. Some guys conducted some sort of ceremony on the balconies overlooking the square. A multitude of spectators sat on the steps and watched on quietly.
Islam Karimov Park
We continued our walk through the adjacent park, dedicated to the memory of Uzbekistan’s first president, Islam Karimov. At its center stood a prominent statue of him, commanding attention. Along the pathways, children raced ahead of their parents on bicycles and electric cars, filling the air with laughter. The park also offered several charming vantage points for side views of Registan Square.
Daytime Exploration on Day #2
We woke early the next morning to take advantage of the less searing hours before noon. The taxi driver got confused and drove us in circles through streets so narrow that pedestrians had to press against the walls to let us pass. Eventually, without an overcharging attempt, he dropped us off at our first attraction and starting point of our walking itinerary.
Afrasiab History Museum of Samarakand
The Afrasiab History Museum in Samarkand offers a fascinating glimpse into the ancient history of the region, specifically the lost city of Afrasiab, which predates modern Samarkand. The museum showcases artifacts like pottery, coins, and tools that reveal the daily lives of the people who lived there. A highlight is the famous wall painting from the 7th century, depicting a Sogdian ambassadorial procession.
The building also has a second floor that was inaccessible during our visit. It’s unclear whether this space previously housed or will host another exhibition in the future. Tickets cost 40,000 UZS. Behind the museum extends the Afrasiab archaeological site. It doesn’t seem to comprise any too notable structures, but we’d check it out if we had more time in the city.
Jewish Cemetery
A couple hundred meters down the road from the museum, lies Samarkand’s Jewish Cemetery: a poignant site reflecting the city’s once-thriving Bukharan Jewish community. Located in a quiet area, the cemetery is a mix of modest and elaborate headstones, some inscribed in Hebrew, Persian, or Russian, providing a glimpse into the multicultural history of Samarkand. The graves date back centuries, with many belonging to prominent figures in the local Jewish community. Our plan was to walk through the cemetery to reach the entrance of the Shah-i-Zinda Necropolis. However, with the cemetery’s south gate shut, we found ourselves above the necropolis instead.
Shah-i-Zinda Necropolis
The Shah-i-Zinda Necropolis in Samarkand is a stunning ensemble of mausoleums that dates back to the 11th to 19th centuries, showcasing some of the finest examples of Islamic architecture in Central Asia. The complex is named after “The Living King,” referring to the legendary cousin of the Prophet Muhammad, Qusam ibn Abbas, who is believed to be buried here. Its narrow, vibrant corridor of intricately tiled tombs is a visual feast, with mesmerizing blue and turquoise mosaics that reflect the craftsmanship of different dynasties. What makes Shah-i-Zinda particularly captivating is its layered history, with each mausoleum representing a unique period and style, making it a chronological gallery of art and architecture.
The site lies in a excavated corridor on the hillslope. As we accidentally ended up at the hillside above it, we got to see the entire site from an elevated position without paying the ticket. The downside was we didn’t enter the tombs. To get back onto the road, we had to hike down a steep path and leap off a wall.
Hazrat Khizr Mosque
We continued to the Hazrat Khizr Mosque, a historic and spiritual site that offers a blend of religious significance and architectural beauty. Perched on a hill near the entrance to Shah-i-Zinda, the mosque dates back to the 8th century and is dedicated to Hazrat Khizr, the Islamic figure associated with guidance and immortality. Rebuilt in the 19th century, its ornate ceilings, carved woodwork, and colorful patterns are a visual delight. Notably, the mausoleum of Uzbekistan’s first president, Islam Karimov, is situated within the mosque’s yard, adding contemporary significance and drawing visitors interested in modern history.
Visitors can enjoy a serene environment, with benches and drinking water available outside for a moment of rest. The free entrance makes it an accessible spot for anyone looking to experience Samarkand’s spiritual ambiance and panoramic views of the city.
Siyob Bazaar
We then crossed the street into the Siyob Bazaar, a bustling marketplace and a hub of local culture. This historic bazaar has been a focal point of trade for centuries and continues to thrive today, offering a wide variety of goods. It’s particularly known for its fresh fruits, vegetables, and the vibrant array of spices that fill the air with rich aromas. Watermelons dominate the stalls during our August visit.
Bibi-Khanym Mosque
The Bibi-Khanym Mosque in Samarkand is one of the most impressive architectural landmarks of the Timurid era, built in the late 14th century under the patronage of Amir Timur (Tamerlane). This grand mosque was once one of the largest in the Islamic world, constructed to celebrate Timur’s conquest of India and named after his wife, Bibi-Khanym. Its immense scale is matched by its intricate detailing, from the monumental entrance portal to the exquisite tilework that adorns the walls.
A highlight of the mosque complex is the massive marble Quran stand in the courtyard, believed to bring blessings to those who pass under it. Despite significant restorations, the ruins convey the grandeur and ambition of its original design. The entrance fee was 40,000 UZS.
Islam Karimov Street
As the heat of the day reached its peak, we strolled down Islam Karimov Street—a vibrant pedestrian avenue connecting the Bibi-Khanym Mosque to Registan Square. This lively street forms the heart of the city’s tourist district, lined with cafes, restaurants, and souvenir shops. We paused for a refreshing break at Art Cafe, enjoying coffee and juice, before continuing on to where we had been the previous evening.
Registan Square on the Day
Registan Square, without its magnificent lighting and crowd of beholders, felt bare during the daytime. Nevertheless, it was still impressive to see under the blue sky and well worth a second visit. However, if I had to choose between visiting during the day or night, I would unhesitatingly opt for the latter.
Having completed our sightseeing tour in Samarkand, we wandered away from the city center in search of an economical lunch before taking a taxi back home. Following some well-deserved rest, we departed for Bukhara the next morning.
Photos
View (and if you want use) all my photographs from Samarkand in higher resolution.
