Karagandy (or Karaganda) is one of Kazakhstan’s largest cities, known for its coal mining heritage and Soviet-era architecture. Once a major center of the KarLag labor camp system, the city has a complex history tied to Stalin-era repression, which is commemorated in local museums. Despite its industrial roots, Karagandy has developed into a modern city with parks, theaters, and universities. Its cool, dry climate and wide boulevards give it a distinct atmosphere compared to southern cities like Almaty. While not a typical tourist destination, it offers insight into Kazakhstan’s Soviet past and working-class culture, making it an interesting stop for those curious about the country’s history beyond its major hubs.
We visited Karagandy briefly, spending an overnight stop en route from Almaty to Astana, and took the opportunity to explore a bit. Overall, I found it a pleasant city with a strong push toward modernization. Under different circumstances, I would have gladly spent several more days there.
In this post, I’ll share some general impressions from our stay, along with recommendations on where to stay, eat, and explore—useful tips if you’re planning a visit to this little-known but charming city.
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We arrived in Karagandy in the afternoon on a carpool ride from Balkhash. Our driver dropped us off in the city center, just a short walk from our accommodation.
We stayed in a lovely apartment on Nurken Abdirova Avenue, a major thoroughfare in the heart of the city, lined with shops, cafés, and restaurants. Our hosts—a mother and son—were exceptionally welcoming and attentive. The son, in particular, had a good command of English—a rather rare skill in this part of the world.
The apartment was plain great—a total bargain considering its low price. With large windows overlooking the busy street, it was spacious, clean, fully furnished, and equipped with everything needed for a long-term stay. It almost felt wasteful to use it for just a night’s sleep. I highly recommend it, but if you’re looking for something different, feel free to explore more options on the map below.
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We left our stuff and headed out for a walk. The August weather had taken a sharp turn from the dry heat we’d left behind in Balkhash. We had to put on sweaters and could have even used a jacket if we had one. A couple of blocks down the road, a passing storm caught us, and we waited it out under the cover of a building’s entrance. Once it passed, we resumed our walk in the fresh air it left behind.
Beyond the main streets, Karagandy felt like a typical Soviet city, with weathered, colorless apartment blocks interspersed with broad green spaces featuring playgrounds and sports facilities. We walked through Victory Park—standard in every ex-Soviet city—where the then-closed Local History Museum is located. Completing a loop along Mira Boulevard and Nursultan Nazarbayev Street—two relatively busy roads with wide pedestrian walkways in the middle—we returned to our street by evening.
We ended the day with a beer at Harat’s Irish Pub across the street from our place, followed by dinner at this nearby fast-food spot. Originally, we had planned to dine at My Tbilisi, a Georgian restaurant, but upon turning up, we discovered it was a hybrid of a restaurant and a club—complete with a DJ blasting dance music from loudspeakers and a pretty girl stamping hands at the entrance—which wasn’t quite what we were looking for at the moment.
The next morning, we got up early for one more walk before catching our ride to Astana. We went to Central Park, the city’s main recreational spot, offering a mix of Soviet-era charm and modern family-friendly attractions. Established in the mid-20th century, the park featured wide tree-lined paths, a small amusement park, a lake with boat rentals, and various food stalls. While some of its old rides and monuments reflect its Soviet past, newer additions like cafés and updated playgrounds gave it a more contemporary feel.
Within the park, we visited the Church of the Holy Apostles Peter and Paul. Despite its old-fashioned wooden structure, it was actually built in the 21st century on top of a burial site for victims of religious persecution in the 1930s. Its uniqueness lies in its construction technique—using interlocking logs without a single nail.
On the way back to the center, we walked past the Stele of Independence, a striking monument commemorating the country’s sovereignty after the collapse of the Soviet Union. This tall, elegant column is topped with a gilded figure, symbolizing freedom and national pride. Located in a prominent public space, the stele is surrounded by decorative elements and inscriptions that reflect Kazakhstan’s journey toward independence. It serves as both a historical marker and a gathering place for national celebrations.
The monument stands in front of the Administrative Center of Karagandy Region, one of Kazakhstan’s largest industrial regions. This government building houses the regional authorities responsible for economic development, infrastructure, and public services. Architecturally, it reflects a formal and functional design, typical of government institutions, with a commanding presence in Karagandy’s cityscape.
After grabbing some breakfast in this nice coffee shop, we met our driver in front of our accommodation and headed to Astana.
Activities in Kazakhstan
Photos
View (and if you want use) all my photographs from Karagandy in higher resolution.
