Having just failed to acquire a Covid test to be allowed into Kosovo, we left Kukes destined for Mount Korab. This is the highest mountain of both Albania and North Macedonia, reaching an elevation of 2,764 m. The plan was to drive to the Albanian village of Radomire by the mountain’s western foot, sleep for a few hours, and set off before dawn for a day trek towards Mount Korab’s summit. The weather would be on our side, offering a rather rare window of clemency amid the harshness of the Albanian winter. However, we weren’t particularly optimistic about reaching the top, as we lacked crampons and axes and we’d only be able to venture as far up as possible with our bare shoes.
From Kukes to Radomire
It was a short and scenic ride from Kukes to the village of Radomire. We started at about noon and it took us a little less than two hours – together with all the picture stops – to cover the 45 km until our destination. The frozen desolation that pervaded the landscapes was gratifying to the senses and soothing to the soul.
In Radomire
It was still early afternoon when we made it to Radomire. Most of the village’s inhabitants were comfy in their homes, but the few who were outside for whatever reason were excited to see us.
We took our time to try all the various trails that we could find around the village for some fun off-road driving. Eventually, shortly after sunset, we ended up parked on some random spot outside of the village.
In order to save time packing in the morning, we decided to not pitch the tent and sleep in the car tonight. Turning on the engine at frequent intervals throughout the night, we managed to have a fairly warm sleep despite the freeze outside.
The thermometer read -9 Celsius when the alarm rang at 4 am. We quickly started the car, made a small breakfast, put all our layers on, packed a few stuff, and drove back to Radomire. At about the highest point of the village, we parked the car in front of Hotel Korabi. Right across the street from it (coordinates: 41.8114, 20:4886) begins the trail towards the summit of Mount Korab. We locked the car and set off striding.
Trekking Mount Korab
A star-deluged sky augured the cerulean sky the morning would bring. The dawn met us someway uphills from the village, and the hidden from us sunrise was heralded by the distant, illuminated western peaks across the unfathomable valleys. The sun itself would remain out of our vision for a good few hours to come; the magnificent bulk of Mount Korab formed a conclusive barrier between us and it for the time being.
The first part of the ascent was effortless enough. The trail was covered by only a thin layer of snow and the inclination was mostly smooth. At one point, I slipped over an iced rock during a brook crossing and fell into the freezing water. I was quick to get up; nevertheless, the water was quicker to penetrate all the way into my innermost layers. This was quite discouraging an event, but I just carried on forward and let my body heat do its drying work.
At another point (41.8085, 20.5076), the trail met another brook. Daunted as we were from the previous fall, the crossing seemed quite precarious. We decided to divert off the trail and spot a decent ford across the water. We found that about a km uphills, we crossed, and made our way back to the trail.
The sun was approaching the mountain ridge, but the sky had by then more than enough time to get smothered by clouds. There would be no sunshine for us today it seemed.
We were getting steadily closer to the ridge, and the mountain’s volume looked more formidable by the step. The ground’s consistency and inclination began to also get unfavorable for our ascent. The snow was turning into ice, and over the steepest parts, we had to kick-peg our feet into it on every step to keep advancing. It was exhausting; we wouldn’t be able to continue for much longer under these conditions.
Then the route was passing over a precipitous iced slope with a several-hundred-meters slide to follow a possible slip, and an emphatic batch of salient boulders to give an end to a body’s acceleration at the bottom of it. Here’s where continuing would be outright daft.
We descended back the same way, pondering over the disappointment of not having crampons. But what to do; one can only fit so many things in a backpack for a month-long road trip.
Early afternoon, we were back in Radomire. We had a coffee at the hotel by the trailhead, for which the kind owner didn’t accept any money. Back in the car, we resumed our road trip towards southern Albania.
Rent a car in Albania
If you are intending to go on a similar road trip in Albania, definitely check out the Lada Guys. These Russian machines will get you everywhere. But if you’re looking for a casual, cheaper car to drive on asphalt, you’ll find some good deals on autoeurope.com
Accommodation and Activities in Albania
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