A bear that likes marmalade.
This riddle, once solved, would reveal the country my mum was taking me on holiday for my 30th. I failed at guessing Paddington Bear which would lead me to the answer of his home country: Peru! I uttered “Mah-choo Pee-choo?” and was thrown the Frontprint Peru travel guide book… correct! We had 10 months to plan our trip and soon enough another WhatsApp group had formed to share ideas. This is a true account of our time spent researching, planning and experiencing our journey to Machu Picchu.
My mum chose November as our time to visit. Prior to booking the flights in January, she was under the impression that November, according to many reviews on Google, was less crowded, cheaper and milder. I questioned it after reading November is counted in the wet season. Several people I know experienced the following in 2019:
- March – mostly dry
- June – dry/hot
- September – pissed down
**Spoiler alert** – it rained lightly for about 30 minutes during the entire time we trekked the trail. Heavy downpour with claps of thunder and strokes of lightning happened several times while undercover at our campsite. On 2 out of the 3 nights spent in the tent, we were wondering if our tent would be struck by lightning. On one occasion, during lunchtime, while we were playing cards, no amount of thunder could drown out our noise of screaming “cheat!” or “change the suit to cauliflowers (aka clubs)” We hit lucky according to our guide who said we should be grateful – to which we all were – the following week the heavens opened!
Inca vs Salkantay Trail
We ummed and aahed about this for a bit. I had only heard of the Inca Trail, so when two of my friends both mentioned they were trekking Salkantay last year, we decided to explore both trails in great detail to find the most suitable.
Inca | Salkantay | |
Cost | Higher | Lower |
Level | Moderate | Demanding |
Max. Altitude | 4,215m | 4,600m |
Permit | Required | Not Required |
Length (nights) | 3 | 4 |
Distance | 45km | 60km |
Accommodation | Camp | Camp/hotel |
Scenery | Mountains, forest, ruin sites | Mountains, lakes, glacier |
**Based on tours by G Adventures 2019**
In the end, we opted for the Inca Trail as we felt its altitude would already be challenging enough. Plus that we’d like to follow in the footsteps of the Incas and go through the Sun Gate to see Machu Picchu down below.
Tour Company
G Adventures. Why this company? Great reviews from our tour operator (STA) and several other people too.
Accommodation/facilities
For 3 nights, we slept in pairs in 3-man tents which were set up in rows by the porters prior to our arrival at the campsite. I shared a tent with a girl from our group. Otherwise, single tents were also available for solo travellers.
Each campsite had a permanent toilet and cold shower facilities with a mixture of western and squat toilets. With a head torch strapped to our heads, we had to slowly make our way down the dark path like a group of moles.
A medium-sized plastic bowl filled with lukewarm water greeted us upon our arrival at the camp as well as early in the morning outside our tents, thanks to our lovely porters! The “ahh’s” coming from tents as water splashed about were priceless… those simple things you come to appreciate, like soaking your tired feet or rubbing your dirty toes.
Food
I was pleasantly surprised by the flavour, the presentation, and the variety of dishes served at breakfast, lunch and, tea (dinner) – porridge, pancakes, soup, rice, eggs, soya, meat, fish, pasta, salad, pizza, and even a Birthday cake! A girl from our group was that impressed she suggested to the chef to make a recipe book… what a compliment, hats off to the chef!
Myself and my friend who are vegetarians, as well as a girl who had a food allergy, had our dietary needs met.
Each evening we had a “happy hour”. This was not your usual drink offer of 2 for 1 on Dark ‘N’ Stormy but food: popcorn, jam, and biscuits, a sweet but dangerous treat as an hour later tea was served.
Water, as well as a variety of teas, was constantly available while stationed at the camp. Each morning, the porters would wake us up early with a hot cup of coca tea and coffee to wash down our breakfast.
Tuck shops dotted the trail selling water, energy drinks, beer and sweets at a dear cost until the start of the trail to the Dead Woman’s Pass. Coca leaves were sold in bags. These were to help prevent altitude sickness.
Equipment Rental
After our pre-trek briefing by our guides at G Adventures office in Cusco, we were shown a mock set up of the camp (tents with camping mattresses, sleeping bags and a dining shelter). Here we individually decided what we wanted to rent and paid. There was a special offer if all equipment was purchased.
Our group of three opted for all the equipment:
- Sleeping bag – good quality
- Mattress – comfortable (they offer a thin one free of charge)
- Set of walking poles – first time using and felt I had extra support, highly recommended!
Duffel Bag Allowance
Two nights before departure, we were each given a duffel bag to fill with a maximum of 6kg for the porters to carry. The sleeping bag and mattress amounted to 3.5kg so that we had 2.5kg for whatever else. Many trips were taken that night back and forth to the hotel scales, weighing, adding and removing articles… I mean how many pairs of knickers do you actually need for 4 days?
At the pre-trek briefing, one of the guides made a valid suggestion about what to take. She recommended wearing the same outfit every day, different clothes at night, plus a new change of clothes to feel fresh in on the day of Machu Picchu. At the end of the day, everyone is in the same boat: same practical clothes that are dirty and smelly but make for part of the experience. It’s only for 4 days, you will wash again!
We were advised to think about what we needed in our day bags: the bags that we would be carrying with us. I packed an extra jumper and socks – as I feel the cold – waterproofs, a rain poncho bought from Cusco, snacks and my non-plastic water bottle. The group was divided, some had small/condensed bags while others had big/bulging bags. It comes down to what you feel you can carry and what is necessary to you.
“Inca Warriors” aka the crew
Getting off the van into the car park where the Inca Trail begins, I was overwhelmed by the size of the bags the porters were preparing to put on their backs. I spotted a collection of our duffel bags on the ground next to a porter and I instantly thought 6kg per bag will be too much for this man.
After registering, off we went with our sticks in hand, striding along with our day bags, sweat building up in creases and wondering “did I really need to pack that extra jumper?”. Soon enough the porters started appearing with their heavy purple shells, some in pairs, others alone. And you say to yourself “just keep moving” as they quickly overtake you and carry on forward.
Our first lunch stop was after approximately 3 hours and 5km. We were greeted with applause from the porters, lovely but embarrassing as they deserved to be clapped. Many of us returned the praise with sheepish smiles.
In the evening, we arrived at our first campsite and our guide Kike announced we would have introductions with the crew before tea. Under the dusk sky, we sat in a line facing the crew, exchanging looks, while Kike explained he would translate for us what each man is going to say – name and role. The chefs stood out a mile!
After our side introduced ourselves in broken Spanish and many laughs, we had Q&A with the crew:
Who is the youngest and how old?
It was quite obvious who he was as the porters slapped his back and nudged his side, it was a joy to see their playfulness.
21 years
Who is the oldest and how old?
55 years
What’s the longest any of them has done this work for?
15 years as a porter
To have been given the opportunity to hear a little about each porter on the first night was a lovely touch. I think we could have stayed there all night listening to their stories.
Kike was incredible. His knowledge and passion for what he does is inspiring. He had a sense of humour, he motivated us to push on, and made an effort with everyone. We taught him the card game Chase the Ace. He used to be a porter but now he’s been working as a tour guide for the last 5 years. On our last night, he rounded us all up for goodbyes with the crew and gave a speech which got me right in the feels – Live life now. Tell those dearest to you how you feel. Move forward, the past is the past. Our assistant guide, who’s in training to become a guide, was lovely and encouraging.
Inca Trail
Get over this bit. Then it’s Peruvian flat
Kike on the undulating path of the Inca Trail.
The noise of Cusco faints slowly away with each pressing step. The trek had finally commenced and our ears took on new sounds. The Urubamba River meandered alongside us, its fast-flowing water crashing over the rocks. As we climbed, we left it behind but its curve remained visible at certain parts along the trail. Gravel crunched underfoot as we dug our walking poles into the ground and distant chatter buzzed as the group got to know each other.
“Porter!” would often be shouted by people behind to warn you to step aside to let them pass. Some were heavily breathing but could still utter “Buenos días”. Stone paths stretched on, twisting upwards into clouds and down into thick green growth, accompanied by birds forming many sounds. Tall mountains towered over and surrounded us, some with a heavy snowfall settled ontop. Every now and then we stumbled across an Inca site, explained to us by our guides.
Dead Woman’s Pass
Fortunately named so due to its crests resembling the form of a woman’s supine body viewed from the valley down below. It is the highest point of the trek (4,215m) so the most talked and dreaded part by many, me included. The distance is 3.5km uphill and it’s estimated by G Adventures to be completed in 2 hours but may take longer. Seven of us climbed as a group. We egged each other on by speaking words of encouragement, playing music, and sticking together. We finally made it to the top after many stops for a breath, a drink, but most importantly, a look around.
Machu Pichu: The “Old Mountain”
Pronounced as Mah-choo Peek-choo will give you the correct meaning. Mah-choo Pee-choo means a completely different thing: “Old Penis”. It may need some practice, I know which one I was saying.
Seeing Machu Picchu down below from the Sun Gate, just after sunrise, ended what was a truly unique experience. We had all made it! The crowds of people – clean, well-dressed people – were a surprise after being used to seeing the same small group of people and their familiar faces along the trek.
5,600 people are allowed on site every day, this number can increase during the high season (April-September).
Travelling to Machu Picchu along the path of the Inca Trail, sleeping under the stars, and sharing with others made for a special journey that I enjoyed more than reaching the destination.
The bear that likes marmalade was nowhere to be seen.