In July 2024, we left Vergina and its archaeological wonders and headed west. In about two hours, we arrived in the city of Kastoria. My 13-year-old nephew was spending the summer there at his grandma’s, and we stopped by for a visit before continuing to the mountainous wilderness of Epirus. It was my first time in the region. With my nephew’s guidance, who’s been vacationing there forever, we got to explore a good deal during the three days of our sojourn. Following are some of the most interesting things we got to see and do.
Discover Byzantine churches
Above all, Kastoria is famous for its elegant Byzantine churches. About 80 of these remarkable structures are scattered throughout the city’s winding pathways, some dating as far back as the 9th century. Many are open for visitors to admire their timeworn frescoes and icons. This extraordinary collection solidifies Kastoria’s position as one of Greece’s most significant centers of Byzantine religious art and architecture.
Most of the Byzantine churches in Kastoria are located close to each other within the compact old town, making it easy to visit several in a short amount of time. Some of the most notable churches include:
- Panagia Koumpelidiki: believed to be the city’s oldest church intact, built at the highest point of the old town. (location)
- Agios Stefanos: known for its stunning frescoes from the Middle Byzantine period. (location)
- Agioi Anargyroi: built in the 12th century, the only church in town with marble decorations. (location)
- Agios Nikolaos Kasnitzi: contains rich frescoes depicting various Biblical scenes. (location)
At the church of Agia Paraskevi Oikonomou (location), a kind old lady living next door promptly treated us to a refreshment.
Visit the Byzantine Museum
Unfortunately, we didn’t have time for this one during this trip—we were exploring out of town on both our trip’s days during the museum’s opening hours. But if you do, you should definitely pay it a visit. The Byzantine Museum of Kastoria is a treasure trove of religious art and artifacts from the Byzantine period. Established in 1989, the museum houses a remarkable collection of icons, frescoes, and ecclesiastical objects dating from the 12th to the 17th century. These pieces, many of which come from the local Byzantine churches, offer a glimpse into the religious and cultural life of the region during the height of the Byzantine Empire. Notable highlights include intricately crafted icons and gold-leaf manuscripts.
Walk by the lake
Both shores of Kastoria are lined with broad promenades. Both sides are perfect for a leisurely stroll along the serene waters of Lake Orestiada. Numerous restaurants and cafés dot the shoreline, along with benches where visitors can sit and enjoy the view of wooden boats bobbing gently against the picturesque backdrop of mountains. On the northern shore, a tourist boat offers a jolly ride around the lake, allowing for a more immersive experience of Kastoria’s natural beauty.
Climb to Profitis Ilias church and marvel at the view
The Church of Profitis Ilias is another of Kastoria’s Byzantine churches, distinguished from the others by its elevated location. As is tradition with churches dedicated to Prophet Elijah, it stands atop a hill, overlooking the city from the east. You can either drive or walk to the top, where you’ll be rewarded with a stunning panorama of Kastoria and its surrounding landscape.
Visit the Monastery of Mavriotissa
The Monastery of Mavriotissa is located at the tip of Kastoria’s peninsula, about 4 km from the city center. You can either walk there or drive at minimal speed along the scenic, shoreside route. Mavriotissa is one of the town’s most important Byzantine landmarks. Founded in the 11th century, the monastery is dedicated to the Virgin Mary and is renowned for its stunning frescoes that adorn the exterior walls, depicting religious scenes with vivid colors. The serene setting, surrounded by trees and the calm waters of the lake, adds to the monastery’s peaceful and reflective atmosphere.
Swim in the lake
Most locals don’t consider Kastoria’s lake particularly clean, and swimming isn’t very common in it. However, there is a small beach that draws a group of dedicated swimmers. It is located about a km south of the city along the peninsula (Google Maps). It has a Facebook page as well. The water seemed fine to me; I’ve swum in murkier lakes, and I wouldn’t hesitate to swim here if I had more time. An Argentinian guy I was chatting to as he sunbathed at the waterfront was also happily swimming on the spot.
Take a trip to Prespa Lakes
The Prespa Lakes, located at the borders of Greece, Albania, and North Macedonia, are one of Europe’s most ecologically important wetlands. Divided into two bodies of water—Great Prespa and Small Prespa—the lakes are home to rare species of birds, including pelicans, and a rich variety of fish. Surrounded by mountains and dotted with traditional villages, the lakes offer stunning views and a peaceful, untouched natural environment. Located about an hour’s drive north, the area makes for an idyllic day trip destination from Kastoria. We chose it for our first excursion and had a lovely day exploring the island of Agios Achilleios, which lies within the small Prespa Lake.
Hike the surrounding mountains
As the destination of our second excursion, we chose Askion Mountain east of Lake Orestiada. It took an hour’s drive to the trailhead and a two-hour hike to the top. We saw some beautiful views and two wild hares. Check out the full report here. You can also hike Mount Vernon (aka Vitsi). There you have better chances of spotting bears but you cannot access the summit because it hosts a military base. If you’re looking for something tougher and more adventurous, consider Mount Grammos to the west of Kastoria.
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