Tanaida Plateau (📍map) is one of the least-known mountain destinations in central Evia. Hidden at an elevation of around 1,000 metres on the long ridge between Mount Dirfys and Pyxarias, it occupies a secluded basin surrounded by forests, limestone ridges, and mountain peaks. Despite its remote character, the plateau is accessible both on foot and via a rough dirt road suitable for high-clearance 4×4 vehicles.
The plateau sits between Tanaida Peak (1,157 m, 📍map) to the southeast and Kalpakovrachos Peak (1,176 m, 📍map) to the north. Once used extensively by shepherds who spent the summer months here with their flocks, it remains a place where traces of traditional mountain life are still visible. Today it attracts hikers, off-road enthusiasts, and visitors looking for one of Evia’s quieter mountain landscapes.
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History and Etymology
For centuries, the area has been associated with seasonal shepherding. During the warmer months, flocks are brought here to graze on the mountain meadows, and the plateau remains dotted with simple shepherd shelters and livestock structures. According to local tradition, an ancient sanctuary dedicated to Hera may once have stood here, although no visible remains survive today.
The origin of the name Tanaida remains uncertain, but local traditions and linguistic theories have produced several explanations. Older generations in the villages around Dirfys used the expression “Ai stin Tanaida” when referring to someone who seemed slightly eccentric or out of touch with reality. The phrase likely reflected the area’s reputation as a remote and isolated place, far removed from everyday village life.
Some researchers have also suggested a connection with the ancient Greek name Tanais, known from the Greek colony and river of the same name near the Sea of Azov. While the relationship remains speculative, the survival of such an unusual place name in the mountains of central Evia has long intrigued historians and local scholars.
Exploring the Plateau
The centre of the plateau is occupied by open meadows framed by fir trees, creating one of the most distinctive mountain landscapes in Evia. The terrain is largely gentle and easy to explore on foot, especially compared to the steep slopes and rocky ridges surrounding it.
One of the main landmarks is the small church of Saints Cosmas and Damian (Agioi Anargyroi). Standing alone among the meadows, the simple chapel is surrounded by a well-kept garden and open grassy clearings. Its isolated setting makes it a natural focal point for anyone visiting the plateau.
Seasonal ponds also form in parts of the basin after periods of rain, providing water for livestock and wildlife. Combined with the surrounding forest, these wetlands create a landscape that differs noticeably from the drier lowlands of central Evia.
Hiking to Tanaida Plateau
Tanaida can be reached by several hiking routes, although none should be considered straightforward. The mountain complex around the plateau is known for its rugged limestone terrain, abandoned shepherd paths, and maze-like topography. While this contributes to the area’s sense of remoteness, it also makes route-finding more challenging than on many of Evia’s better-known hikes.
The easiest access to the plateau starts from the mountain road between Kontodespoti and Agia Sophia, where both hikers and 4×4 vehicles can access the plateau relatively easily. The shortest option begins from 📍here and reaches the plateau after 7.5 km, gaining around 600 metres in elevation and passing a small mountain lake along the way. A slightly longer route starts from 📍here and covers roughly 9 km, but with a gentler ascent of about 230 metres.
The most popular approach starts from Attali (📍map) and follows old mountain tracks through the uplands west of the plateau. Beyond the area known as Apogremos, the route leaves the easier dirt roads behind and enters a more rugged landscape of limestone formations, sinkholes, and scattered fir forest. This final section provides a good introduction to the wild character of the Tanaida mountain complex and eventually reaches the plateau from its western side.
A more challenging alternative starts from Makrykapa (📍map) and follows old shepherd routes through Vavoula and Kartsini Pass before reaching the plateau from the west. This route crosses some of the most remote parts of the Dirfys-Pyxarias mountain range, passing through rugged limestone terrain where abandoned paths, sinkholes, and dense forest can make navigation difficult. While considerably more demanding than the approaches from Attali or the Kontodespoti–Agia Sophia road, it offers a deeper immersion into one of Evia’s wildest mountain landscapes.
The most adventurous approach starts from Limnionas Beach (📍map) and climbs directly from the Aegean coast into the mountains of central Evia. Covering a considerable elevation gain, the route passes through successive vegetation zones before eventually reaching the high ridges surrounding the plateau. While considerably longer and more demanding than the other approaches, it offers the unusual experience of hiking from sea level to one of Evia’s most secluded mountain landscapes in a single outing.
From the plateau, you can shortly reach the adjacent peaks of Tanaida and Kalpakovrachos.
Because of the limited trail infrastructure and the complexity of the terrain, carrying a GPS track or navigation app is highly recommended for anyone planning to explore beyond the plateau itself.
Reaching Tanaida by 4×4
The plateau can also be reached via a network of dirt roads. The easiest vehicle access comes from the road connecting Kontodespoti and Agia Sophia, from where a rough mountain track leads towards the meadows.
A high-clearance 4×4 vehicle is strongly recommended. Road conditions vary depending on weather and maintenance, and some sections can become rocky or difficult after heavy rain.
Flora and Fauna
The forests and meadows around Tanaida support a diverse mountain ecosystem. Fir trees dominate much of the surrounding high ground, while open grasslands and seasonal wetlands provide habitat for a variety of plant and animal species. In spring and early summer, many parts of the plateau become covered with wildflowers and flowering shrubs.
The area is also important for livestock grazing, a tradition that has shaped the landscape for centuries. Shepherds still bring flocks to these mountains during the warmer months, and it is common to encounter sheep and goats grazing across the meadows.
Wildlife remains relatively abundant thanks to the plateau’s isolation. Birds of prey can often be seen soaring above the surrounding ridges, while the forests provide shelter for numerous smaller birds and mammals. Visitors who spend time quietly exploring the area may notice a surprising amount of wildlife activity, particularly during the early morning and late afternoon hours.
Videos
Photos
View (and feel free to use) all my photographs from Tanaida Plateau in higher resolution.
