Tucked away in the central mountains of Evia, Steni Dirfyos is one of the island’s top winter destinations. At 400 meters above sea level, this picturesque village attracts visitors from Athens and Chalkida who come to enjoy the snowy landscapes, hike through alpine forests, and savor exceptional grilled meats in traditional tavernas. With a population of about 400 people, Steni remains lively year-round, serving as a gateway to East Evia’s hidden beaches in the summer.
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How to Get to Steni
- By Car: Steni is 107 km from Athens and 32 km from Chalkida. From Athens, take the Athens–Lamia National Road (E75), exit at Schimatari, and follow signs toward Chalkida. From Chalkida, follow signs to Nea Artaki and then take the road toward Steni.
If you haven’t got a car already, you can compare some of the best rental deals here.
- By Bus: Take a KTEL bus from Athens’ Liossion Terminal (location) to Chalkida, then switch to a local bus toward Steni. Bus schedules may be limited, so checking ahead on the bus company’s website is advised.
Where to Stay in Steni
Steni is home to a handful of cozy lodges and traditional guesthouses, offering a warm and authentic mountain village experience.
- Steni Hotel – A modern and comfortable hotel in the heart of the village. Rooms are spacious, well-equipped, and feature balconies with stunning mountain views. Its central location makes it perfect for exploring Steni’s tavernas and hiking trails.
- Mousiko Pandoxeio – A charming guesthouse with a unique musical theme, blending traditional aesthetics with vintage decor. Ideal for couples and nature lovers seeking a peaceful and atmospheric stay.
- Nakaraki Guesthouse – A rustic stone-built guesthouse offering a traditional village experience. Surrounded by nature and breathtaking mountain scenery, it’s perfect for those looking for a quiet and scenic retreat.
- Guesthouse Vasiliki – A cozy, family-friendly guesthouse with spacious, well-furnished rooms. Guests can enjoy homemade breakfast and warm hospitality, making it an excellent choice for a relaxing mountain getaway.
Explore more options in the surrounding area and throughout Greece on the convenient map below:
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What to Do in Steni
Hiking
Steni is a paradise for hikers, with trails like S1 and S2 leading to Mount Dirfys’ Refuge and summit therefrom, Xerovouni, and the stunning Agali Gorge. The Dirfys ascent (1,743 m) is challenging but rewarding, offering breathtaking views of Evia and beyond.
Explore the Village and Its Springs
If you prefer a relaxed pace, a stroll through Steni’s central square is a must. Traditional stone houses, charming cafés, and the Doctor’s Spring—one of several stone springs—add to the village’s beauty. The churches of Virgin Mary’s Assumption and Saint Kyrikos offer cultural and historical insight.
Visit the Eria Waterfall
Although the Eria waterfall disappeared after a torrent years ago, its location—12 km from Steni—remains a beautiful riverside retreat. The river’s icy waters and towering plane trees provide the perfect summer escape.
Mushroom Farm Excursion
Just 14 km from Steni on the road to Chalkida, you’ll find a mushroom farm (location) where you can learn about local fungi varieties and enjoy fresh, organic products.
Buy Local Produce
Steni’s street stalls and shops offer mountain tea, honey, walnuts, chestnuts, fresh and dried fruit, and other products, all sourced from the surrounding forests and farms.
Mountain Biking
Steni Dirfyos offers excellent mountain biking routes, winding through dense forests, rocky paths, and high-altitude plateaus. Trails vary from easy forest roads to steep, technical descents, making the area ideal for both beginners and experienced riders. One of the most scenic routes leads from Steni to the Dirfys Refuge, offering breathtaking mountain views. In autumn, the trails are especially beautiful, with golden leaves and crisp mountain air enhancing the ride.
Rock Climbing
For climbers, Steni’s limestone cliffs offer multiple bolted routes with difficulties ranging from 5 to 7b. The rock faces above the village provide stunning views and challenging climbs, making it a popular spot for Athenian climbers.
Skiing & Snowboarding
In the 1970s and 80s, Steni Dirfyos had a small ski lift, installed by my grandfather and his mates from the island’s hiking club. Though it is no longer operational and has been mostly dismantled, with only rusted remnants scattered across the slope, the mountain still offers excellent conditions for experienced skiers and snowboarders who are willing to climb the on foot mountain for a ride down.
Where to Eat in Steni
Steni is famous for its grill taverns, serving local meats and traditional Evian dishes. Here are some great places to eat:
- Taverna Kissos – Famous for grilled lamb and kontosouvli.
- Taverna Platanos – Cozy spot under plane trees, offering hearty stews and meats.
- Taverna Mouria – A local favorite for souvlaki and kokoretsi.
For coffee and sweets:
- Cafe Steni – A warm café with great coffee and homemade sweets.
- Elati Café – A laid-back spot perfect for hot beverages and pastries.
History of Steni
During Ottoman rule, Steni was known as Kleisoura and served as a hideout for Greek klephts (resistance fighters) who hid in the mountains and subsisted on goats and chestnuts. The village of Ano Steni was founded in 1790 by residents of the abandoned Skouderi settlement, who fled Turkish oppression. It is said that Ottoman forces never set foot in Kleisoura, making it a stronghold of defiance.
In 1835, after Greece’s liberation, Steni became part of the newly established municipality of Lilantion.
The Legend of the Heartbroken Girl
Local legend tells of a young woman in the 19th century who, forbidden from marrying her true love, threw herself off a high rock at the village entrance. Soon after, her parents died of grief. To this day, villagers claim to hear cries and whispers from the tragic spot on certain nights.
Places to Visit nearby
- Chiliadou Beach – One of Evia’s most stunning and secluded beaches, located on the island’s eastern coast. Famous for its wild beauty, crystal-clear waters, and dramatic rock formations, it’s a perfect summer escape just a short drive from Steni.
- Mount Dirfys – At 1,743 meters, this is Evia’s highest peak, offering breathtaking views and challenging hiking routes, including the S1 and S2 trails starting from Steni.
- Xerovouni – A rugged limestone mountain with stunning rock formations and a less crowded but equally rewarding hike. Great for rock climbing and off-the-beaten-path exploration.
- Agali Gorge – A dramatic canyon cutting through Dirfyos’ slopes, featuring lush greenery, steep cliffs, and refreshing springs. Ideal for trekking and nature photography.
- Stropones – A picturesque village deep in the Dirfyos region, famous for its trout farms and riverside tavernas serving fresh fish. A great place to experience authentic Evian mountain life.
Video
Photos
View (and if you want use) all my photographs from Steni Dirfyos in higher resolution.
