Spring was underway around Lake Ohrid, North Macedonia. We were stationed in Ohrid city and were regularly checking the forecast, looking for the best days to go explore the surrounding area’s splendid beauty. A week earlier, as a first excursion, we had ventured to Galicica National Park on foot. This time, as another halcyon day came, we decided to go on a scooter ride along the eastern shore of Lake Ohrid and visit the Monastery of Saint Naum, the Bay of Bones, and the picturesque villages of Peshtani and Trpejca. But for going on a scooter ride, we first needed a scooter.
Renting a scooter in Ohrid
There is a number of places renting scooters in Ohrid city, but the majority of them I found unreasonably expensive and without a good attitude towards negotiating. After all, we ended up renting from Escape Rent a Car agency for €15 per day. The price, though objectively expensive, was the lowest we managed to get, and the owner was friendly and helpful. It’s the only place I would recommend.
Peshtani Village
So we got our bike and set off. We covered the first half or so of the way to the Albanian border without any stops. It was still early morning when we arrived at the village of Peshtani, located in about the middle of Lake Ohrid’s eastern shore.
Peshtani was a cute village, laid in an elongated shape between a pebble beach and scenic mountains. An info board in the village center claims that Peshtani is the second most popular tourist resort on Ohrid’s shore after the city of Ohrid. Upon our visit, given it was still cold and amid the Covid travel restrictions, I didn’t notice any traffic that would validate this claim. However, given the numerous hotels along the beach, I can imagine this place being crammed with holiday-makers during the summer.
We parked the bike and went for a little stroll along the beach. Many seagulls and cormorants rested on the wooden poles off the strand, taking sporadic flights to reconnoiter the lake surface for comestibles. The water was stunningly clear and inviting for a dip. However, the cold air outside and the envisioning of the water temperature that it entailed did kill the idea upon its inception. We soon mounted the bike again and resumed our way south.
The Bay of Bones
Our second stop was at the Bay of Bones. This is a scaled-down model of a rather massive prehistoric settlement that was there discovered. The original settlement is believed to have been hosted on an 8.5-square-km palafitte, supported on up to 10,000 wooden poles. It was constructed sometime between the 13th and 8th centuries BC. The site was discovered during excavations that took place between 1997 and 2005. Its reconstruction was completed in 2008, when it officially opened to the public known as the Museum on Water or the Bay of Bones, owing to the many animal remains that were found on the site.
An MKD 100 entrance fee needs to be submitted for visiting the site. Although there was a booth by the parking area above, no-one manned it and we could get down to the bay for free. The ticket fee was only asked to visit the museum itself. We spent there some time, wondering the elegant beauty of the environs and trying to imagine what life would be like for those ancient people, and got on the road again.
Saint Naum Monastery
Heading south and approaching the Albanian border, we drove past a lovely viewpoint. A rock was situated by the side of the road, below which we could stare at an amazing view of Lubanista beach with its numerous parked caravans. A bit further south was the Monastery of Saint Naum.
This monastery was originally established in the year 905 by Saint Naum of Ohrid in what then was the Bulgarian Empire. That guy was a Christian scholar who took up Cyril and Methodius’ project of Christianizing the Slavic populations of the Balkans. The original structure didn’t last long and the monastery was rebuilt in its current state in the 16th century, when it briefly functioned as a Greek school under the Ottoman Empire. Nowadays it is one of North Macedonia’s most visited historical sights and a big religious business.
We got to stroll a bit around the monastery’s premises and marvel at the broad, placid views of the lake. We didn’t see any monks, but the yard was inhabited by many peacocks. They weren’t shy of the camera at all.
Around the monastery itself, you find another old church dedicated to some saint by the name of Petka, a caravan ground, a small port connecting the monastery with Ohrid, and plenty of restaurants and souvenir shops. Most of the latter were shut during our visit, probably due to the low traffic the pandemic had resulted in.
By the monastery is also located the so-called spring of Saint Naum, which is one of the primary water sources of Ohrid Lake. The pools take on some really vibrant colors and are engulfed by thick, hydrophilic vegetation. A beautiful hiking trail runs around the spring and boats are available to hire for a ride.
We spent a good few hours in the area, took some very nice pictures and drone shots, and started on our way back.
Trpejca Village
On our way back, we made a last stop at the village of Trpejca. This is a remarkably picturesque settlement that the recent influx of summer vacationers has given the nickname of Macedonian Saint-Tropez. While a portion of it is built along the narrow beach at the hill foot, the bulk of the village stands atop the hill itself, overlooking the broad lake.
We found a nice spot on the cliff edge by the south side of the village, whence we could enjoy a panoramic view of the settlement, the mountains looming over it, and the lake extending beyond. After flying our last drone battery, we drove straight back to Ohrid and made it just in time for a sunset beer.
Accommodation and Activities in North Macedonia
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