As our 2023-24 overwintering destination we chose Madagascar. Although we’d spend a full three months in the country, it soon became apparent that we’d barely be able to dabble in exploring it. A vast country with rudimentary transport infrastructure, we‘d have to be smart and selective in picking out destinations for our itinerary. And since we visited in the rain season, our options were further limited by seasonally impassable roads. Several places that featured high in our wish list, such as Andringitra and Tsingy, were altogether out of the question.
With due research and contemplation, we made this plan: We’d first be large to rent a 4×4 and go on a 15-day road trip. And then, for the rest of our stay, we’d move around slowly by cheap local public transport. Since the south is the less developed and harder to travel part of the country, we’d use the car to head that direction and leave the easier north for the buses.
Asking around Antananarivo, we found plenty of reasonably priced cars. What we didn’t find was many owners who were willing to rent without a driver. And the handful who did would do so for the same price as with a driver at best. Some kind of insurance matter I assume. So, for the first time in my life, I got to have a private chauffeur and enjoy the ride through this fascinating country at leisure. The car was fixed by a dude called Patrick from MadaRentalACR for €42 per day including the driver with his accommodation and food. Our driver, Tahina, was very professional and an excellent company. You may contact him on Facebook if you’re looking for a trustful driver/guide and you speak French.
Following is an outline of our itinerary with pictures, videos, and links to a few travel stories I wrote during the trip. You might find it helpful if you’re planning something similar.
Day #1: Antananarivo to Antsirabe
Started rather late in the morning and, with one brief stop in the aluminum-craft town of Ambatolampy, arrived in Antsirabe relatively quickly (4 hours). Antsirabe is Madagascar’s third-largest city known as the country’s rickshaw capital. Had several daylight hours to go for a walk around the city.
The story:
Antsirabe – Madagascar Road Trip #1
Day #2: Antsirabe to Morondava
Started at dusk and drove 500 km in 12 hours. Save stunning mountainous sceneries, there was pretty much nothing along the way. Miandrivazo, about midway, was the only large enough settlement to maintain a petrol station and a restaurant for lunch. Arrived in Morondvava at sunset.
Day #3: Avenue of Baobabs, Morondava, Betania
Left at night and visited the nearby Avenue of Baboabs, one of Madagascar’s most remarkable sights, for sunrise. Were back in Morondava still early morning and spent the whole day walking around. In addition to exploring Morondava, we went on a boat trip across the river mouth to the lovely, off-grid beach village of Betania.
The story:
Morondava, Avenue of Baobabs, Betania – Madagascar Road Trip #2
Day #4: Morondava to Ambositra
This was the longest drive of the entire road trip. Drove all the same long way back to Antsirabe, and an additional 4 hours to the town of Ambositra. Arrived late in the evening and crashed straight away after a hearty dinner.
Day #5: Ambositra to Ranomafana
Got up at dawn and used an hour for a stroll around Ambositra. Then drove a mere 7 hours to Ranomafana. Spent the afternoon walking around the village.
Day #6: Ranomafana National Park Trek
Went on a 4-hour hiking trip in Ranomafana National Park. Saw four lemur species and several other bizarre creatures. Chilled in the village throughout the afternoon.
The story:
Ranomafana National Park – Madagascar Road Trip #3
Day #7: Ranomafana to Ranohira
Abruptly left the jungle of Ranomafana and drove 350 km through the desert until Ranohira, the gateway village to Isalo National Park. Among many spectacular sceneries, we went past the impressive, reminiscent of Australia’s Uluru Ifandana Rock. Arrived late afternoon and crashed after a walk around the village and dinner.
Day #8: Isalo National Park Trek
Went on a 6-hour trek in Isalo National Park. Walked up and across a desolate plateau and down into a lush, water-rich canyon. Saw lemurs, chameleons, and birds and swam in delightful natural pools. Spent a relaxed afternoon in the village.
The story:
Isalo National Park – Madagascar Road Trip #4
Day #9: Ranohira to Toliara
Drove 7 hours to Toliara, the largest city in southern Madagascar. Went past the mining town of Ilakaka, Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park, and vast stretches of parched land where destitute people literally begged for water. Arrived quite early and went on a long exploratory walk around the city.
Day #10: Ifaty Beach
Went on a day trip to the nearby exotic beach of Ifaty. Spent there the whole day drinking beer and swimming. Finished it off in a karoake bar in Toliara.
The story:
Toliara, Ifaty Beach – Madagascar Road Trip #5
Day #11: Toliara to Anakao
Took a break from the road trip and caught the morning boat to the remote, paradisal beach village of Anakao. Settled in a basic bungalow without electricity or running water and whiled away the day in profound peace.
Day #12: Anakao, Nosy Ve
Repeated the activity of the previous day and went on an afternoon tour to the nearby islet of Nosy Ve with a pirogue sailing with a sail made of sewn-together rice sacks. Snorkelled and bird-watched on the spot.
The story:
Anakao, Nosy Ve – Madagascar Road Trip #6
Day #13: Back to Toliara
Returned to Toliara and rested before the long journey back north.
Day #14: Toliara to Fianarantsoa
Drove straight throughout the whole day and overnighted in Fianarantsoa.
Day #15: Fianarantsoa to Ampefy
Went on a morning walk around the city and carried on to Ampefy, where this road trip finished and we settled for the two following weeks.
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Accommodation and Activities in Madagascar
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