Santa Cruz La Laguna is a small, steeply terraced village on the northern shore of Lake Atitlán in Guatemala, accessible primarily by boat due to its lack of a practical road connection. The village is known for its dramatic setting—perched on the lake’s edge and climbing sharply into the surrounding highlands—with panoramic views of the lake and the looming volcanoes of Atitlán, Tolimán, and San Pedro.
Despite its proximity to tourist-frequented areas, Santa Cruz maintains a largely traditional Kaqchikel Maya identity. The main village center sits high above the waterfront, accessible by a steep, rugged dirt road used mainly by tuk-tuks. One unique aspect is that much of the development catering to visitors—hostels, diving centers, cafés—lies along the lakeshore, while most of the local population lives uphill, creating a distinct spatial and cultural separation. The village has also become a quiet hub for scuba diving, due to the lake’s unique volcanic underwater structures and submerged buildings from previous water level changes.
We visited Santa Cruz La Laguna on a day trip from San Pedro La Laguna during our two-week stay at Lake Atitlán. Here’s the story and some pictures from this outing, along with suggestions for things to do in the area if you plan to visit.
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Our Day Trip to Santa Cruz La Laguna
We left San Pedro early, catching a lancha while the lake was already unsettled and grey. Low clouds pressed down on the water, hiding the surrounding volcanoes, muting the colors of the lower slopes, and flattening the horizon. The ride itself was short but atmospheric: small waves slapped against the hull, the engine’s buzz echoing across the open water, and Santa Cruz slowly came into view as a narrow strip of shoreline backed by steep, densely vegetated slopes. From the boat, you could already see how compressed the place is—houses stacked above the docks, greenery climbing sharply upward, and no obvious center at water level.
After disembarking, we walked along the quiet shore. A handful of small boats were tied to improvised wooden piers, some little more than planks nailed together and anchored into the rocks. A few tourists were out on the lake, paddling slowly on kayaks and paddleboards. A few more lounged on deck chairs on the shore. We stopped for coffee at a small guesthouse café near the lake, sitting close enough to watch the surface of the water change as the clouds rolled and the light thinned further.
From there, we walked up to the main village, about a kilometer inland and uphill. The path climbed steadily through dense vegetation. As we gained height, the lake dropped away quickly behind us, opening wider views back toward the south shore and the looming volcanoes, their upper slopes still partially hidden by cloud.
The higher village felt markedly different from the waterfront. It was quiet and residential, with everyday activity unfolding at its own pace. There were no obvious guesthouses, no clusters of travelers—just a small church, a basketball court overlooking the lake, and streets that felt built for the people who live there rather than those passing through.
After strolling through the quiet village streets, and just as the rain began to fall, we popped open our umbrella and made our way back down toward the lake. A couple of scruffy stray dogs trailed behind us—clearly sensing it was lunchtime. We ducked into a small waterfront restaurant and lingered there, listening to the soft rhythm of rain on the roof as we waited for the next boat to San Pedro. As we pulled away, Santa Cruz faded into the mist behind us—a steep, emerald wall rising from the lake, compact and serene, set apart from the busier, more developed villages nearby.
Top Things to Do in Santa Cruz La Laguna
High-altitude scuba diving
Santa Cruz is home to ATI Divers, the only PADI-certified dive center on Lake Atitlán. Diving here isn’t about reefs or colorful fish, but about the novelty of exploring a deep, volcanic lake at altitude. Divers visit submerged structures, rocky formations, and even thermal vents where warm bubbles rise from the lakebed. They also offer PADI certifications and run their own hostel.
Kayaking and paddleboarding
The waterfront around Santa Cruz is especially calm in the mornings, making it ideal for kayaking or paddleboarding. From here, it’s easy to hug the shoreline, paddle toward neighboring Jaibalito, or simply drift and take in views of the surrounding volcanoes. You can rent kayaks from the guesthouses—as we did for our kayaking outing around Volcán San Pedro—or join an organized tour.
Hiking between villages
With no reliable road access, footpaths are still important here. A scenic trail connects Santa Cruz with Jaibalito, cutting through forest and offering occasional lake views. It’s an easy way to experience the area beyond the docks. Another option is this 6-hour hike to Sololá.
Community projects and cooking classes
Organizations like Amigos de Santa Cruz run vocational programs in the upper village. Their Café Sabor Cruceño is both a restaurant and a social enterprise, and visitors can also join Guatemalan cooking classes focused on traditional dishes.
Snorkeling and swimming
Visibility varies, but the clear mornings can be good for a quick snorkel near the docks. Many people simply swim off the piers, especially when the lake is calm.
Where to Stay in Santa Cruz La Laguna
Santa Cruz La Laguna works especially well as a day trip, but staying overnight lets you experience its real strength: how quiet Lake Atitlán can feel once the boats stop running and the hills settle into darkness. Here are some recommended accommodations:
High-end: Casa Laguna – Best View in the World
A secluded property perched above the lake just outside Santa Cruz, known primarily for its sweeping, uninterrupted views across Lake Atitlán. The focus here is privacy and scenery rather than facilities, making it a good fit for travelers looking for a quiet, retreat-style stay with a strong sense of place.
Mid-range: La Iguana Perdida
A long-running favorite with a social atmosphere. It offers private rooms and dorms, lakeside access, and hosts weekly events. It’s also the base for ATI Divers, making it ideal if you’re interested in diving.
Budget: Art & Coffee
A small, relaxed guesthouse near the lake, known for its café space and laid-back atmosphere. Simple rooms, a social common area, and an emphasis on creativity rather than nightlife make it a good option for travelers looking for something low-key and affordable in Santa Cruz.
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Photos
View (and feel free to use) all my photographs from Santa Cruz in higher resolution.
More on Lake Atitlán
- Lake Atitlán: Villages Guide & Things to Do
- A Sunrise Hike to Indian Nose (Rostro Maya) at Lake Atitlán
- My Solo Hike to the Top of Volcán San Pedro, Lake Atitlán, Guatemala
- Kayaking on Lake Atitlán: Beneath Volcán San Pedro
- From Quetzaltenango to Lake Atitlán by Chicken Buses
