After landing in Rio de Janeiro in early 2025—and before returning a month and a half later to experience its legendary Carnival—we sought out nearby beach destinations to pass the time. For now, we set aside the more popular (and pricier) seaside getaways like Cabo Frio, Armação dos Búzios, and Arraial do Cabo. Instead, we stumbled upon the overlooked town of Rio das Ostras and its stunning Costa Azul Beach.
It seemed like the perfect place to begin our overwintering in Brazil—an introduction to its unspoiled natural beauty and authentic local vibes. On a spontaneous whim, we took a bus to Rio das Ostras and settled there for two weeks. In this post, I’ll share the highlights of our stay, along with useful tips for anyone planning a visit.
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Where to Stay in Rio das Ostras & Costa Azul
We stayed at BarraPraiaLagos Guesthouse, nestled in the laid-back residential neighborhood of Santa Irene, about 7 km from the town center. For an absolute bargain, we got a spacious two-room apartment with a fridge, kitchenette, and a cozy outdoor area—quite an ideal setup for digital nomads who appreciate peace and quiet. The owner, Altivo, spoke excellent English, was out-of-his-way helpful, and super fun to interact with.
The neighborhood had several buffet restaurants, burger joints, bakeries, shops, and a couple of local bars. The beach was clean and uncrowded. Uber rides from Santa Irene to downtown typically cost us 15–20 reais.
If you rather seek some more upscale accommodation in Costa Azul, here are some recommendations:
- High Budget: Pousada do Wagner—A charming and well-rated guesthouse located right by the beach. Offers spacious rooms, excellent service, and a cozy, welcoming atmosphere. It’s a great option for travelers looking for comfort and a prime location in Costa Azul.
- Mid Budget: Atlântico Hotel—Located just steps from Costa Azul Beach, a great mid-range choice with comfortable rooms, an outdoor pool, and a delicious breakfast. It’s perfect for travelers seeking good amenities at a reasonable price.
- Low Budget: Pousada Sonho Verde—A budget-friendly and well-located option. Offers simple but comfortable rooms, a garden, and free breakfast. It’s a great choice for travelers looking for affordability without sacrificing convenience.
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Best Spots in Rio das Ostras
Here are some of our favorite hangout spots in the central part of Rio das Ostras, west of the Rio das Ostras River.
Praia do Centro (Praia da Tartaruga)
Praia do Centro, also known as Praia da Tartaruga, is the vibrant heart of Rio das Ostras. This expansive beach is the focal point of local life, boasting a broad, shaded promenade lined with numerous restaurants, bars, and parasol rental spots. At its core lies the José Pereira Câmara Square, a central gathering place for residents and visitors alike. For those seeking adventure, boat tours depart regularly, offering unique perspectives of the coastline. Be prepared for lively weekends when the area buzzes with activity, and it’s not uncommon to see people dancing samba in the streets in front of the bars.​
Praia do Cemitério
For a more tranquil experience, Praia do Cemitério offers a serene escape. This smaller, quieter beach provides expansive views of the sea, stretching all the way to Armação dos Búzios. Situated at the eastern end of the beach is the estuary of the Rio das Ostras, adding to the picturesque landscape. The presence of colorful fishing boats enhances the charm, making it an ideal spot for peaceful contemplation.​
Orla do Rio das Ostras
The riverside promenade along the Rio das Ostras is perfect for leisurely walks. The sight of colorful fishing boats gently bobbing on the water adds to the idyllic atmosphere, providing a glimpse into the local fishing culture.​
Empadas Maravilha Café
Finding a good cup of coffee in Rio das Ostras can be surprisingly challenging, but Empadas Maravilha Café (located here) stands out as a delightful exception. This cozy café offers excellent coffee, complemented by a selection of tasty cakes and pastries. The inviting outdoor area provides a comfortable space to unwind, making it our favorite spot in town to enjoy a relaxing coffee break.
Best Spots in Costa Azul
And here are some of the nicest spots to visit in the Costa Azul area, east of Rio das Ostras River.
Costa Azul Beach
Costa Azul Beach is renowned for its stunning blue waters, making it a favorite among locals and tourists alike. The beach offers diverse experiences: certain areas present robust waves ideal for surfing enthusiasts, while the southern bays provide calmer waters suitable for relaxed swimming. The shoreline is lined with numerous food and parasol vendors, often requiring a minimum spend of around 80 reais to secure a spot. Weekends see the beach bustling with activity, from swimmers enjoying the sea to groups playing football on the sandy stretches.
Tocolândia
Adjacent to Costa Azul Beach lies Tocolândia, a charming alley shaded by trees, housing a variety of food joints, cafés, and açaà bars. This small shopping area offers an inviting atmosphere, perfect for leisurely strolls and sampling local delicacies. Visitors can explore shops featuring crafts, specialized beverages, sweets, and snacks. It’s a must-visit spot for both tourists and residents seeking a relaxed environment to enjoy local cuisine and shop for unique items.
Pier do Emissário
Extending gracefully into the ocean, the Pier do Emissário offers visitors a unique vantage point to admire the vastness of the sea. It’s a favored spot for leisurely walks, fishing, and capturing panoramic photographs, especially during sunrise and sunset. The pier’s tranquil ambiance provides a serene escape from the more crowded beach areas.​
Whale Square (Praça da Baleia)
A short walk from Costa Azul Beach brings you to Whale Square, home to an intriguing bronze sculpture of a humpback whale, partially submerged in a pool, with a diver hanging from its tail. This artistic installation pays homage to the marine life native to the region and offers a unique photo opportunity for visitors. The surrounding area is well-maintained, providing a pleasant environment for relaxation and contemplation.​
Beach Viewpoint
At the southern end of Costa Azul Beach, atop the rocky formations, lies a viewpoint offering stunning vistas of the expansive ocean and the surrounding coastline. This spot is part of the Monumento Natural dos Costões Rochosos, a protected area that showcases the region’s unique geological features. It’s an ideal location for photography enthusiasts and those seeking a moment of tranquility while observing the natural beauty of Rio das Ostras.
Praia das Areias Negras
South of Costa Azul Beach, you’ll discover Praia das Areias Negras, a secluded beach known for its darker sands, rich in monazite. This small, horseshoe-shaped beach offers a peaceful retreat away from the more frequented spots, making it perfect for visitors seeking solitude and a closer connection with nature.
Praia Virgem
For those desiring an untouched beach experience, Praia Virgem offers a long stretch of sand with substantial waves, remaining largely empty even during weekends. Its isolation and natural beauty make it a hidden gem for visitors looking to escape the crowds and enjoy the raw, unspoiled coastline.
Other Places to Visit Nearby
Barra de São João
Just 10 km south of Rio das Ostras, Barra de São João is a charming, laid-back town where the São João River meets the Atlantic Ocean. Unlike its more bustling neighbors, this small town offers a tranquil escape with a mix of colonial history, riverside relaxation, and quiet beaches. Check out the story of our day trip there for more info.
Morro São João
Rising near the coastline of Barra de São João, Morro São João is an imposing 800-meter-high mountain that dominates the landscape between Rio das Ostras and Casimiro de Abreu. Its lush slopes and rugged peak create a striking contrast to the region’s beaches, making it a defining natural landmark. We had planned to climb it but were forced to skip the hike due to an arm injury I suffered. If you get the chance, don’t miss it—the views must be incredible.
Photos
View (and if you want use) all my photographs from Rio das Ostras and Costa Azul in higher resolution.
