Mount Tymfi is a massif in the Pindus Mountains of northwestern Greece, located within the Zagori region of Epirus. It forms part of the Vikos–Aoös National Park and is known for its dramatic limestone cliffs, alpine meadows, and deep gorges—including the nearby Vikos Gorge, one of the deepest in the world relative to its width. The highest peak of Tymfi, called Gamila, is Greece’s sixth highest at 2,497 meters (8,192 feet). One distinctive feature is the Dragon Lake (Drakolimni) of Tymfi, a glacial alpine lake perched at around 2,050 meters, home to alpine newts and tied to local dragon legends. Despite its rugged terrain, Tymfi has long been a traditional grazing area, and remnants of old shepherd trails still wind through the mountain today.
During our 2025 road trip to Epirus, we had one day to go hiking and a difficult dilemma: Vikos Gorge or Mount Tymfi? In the end, as we thought it better to return for Vikos Gorge another time with more than a day at our disposal, we opted for the summit of Tymfi. This is the story of this trek, along with useful information to help you plan your own.
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Mount Tymfi features numerous hiking trails that wind through its various peaks and plateaus. The most popular and accessible routes begin from the villages of Konitsa and Papigo, respectively located at the massif’s northwest and southwest. Since we were touring the renowned cluster of Zagori villages, our starting point for this hike was Papigo. After a delightful night’s sleep in our tent, pitched in the village parking lot, we were up at 5 am, ready to set off after a quick breakfast and coffee in the car.
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We drove the short remaining distance to the upper village of Mikro Papigo and parked by the church at the end of the road. By 6:30, we were on foot. The village’s narrow, vine-covered, cobbled main street soon led us directly onto the trail.
We got some unexpected company in the form of a friendly mutt—the only awake inhabitant of the village—who eagerly took on the role of our guide. He ran ahead along the trail, stopping and wagging his tail every time he left us too far behind. He must have walked that route many a time. We named him Acid.
The first part of the trail ran along a steep slope sparsely dotted with junipers and cypresses. The towers of Astraka—the dramatic limestone cliffs that loom above Papigo—grew steadily closer and brighter as we raced against the sun toward the ridge.
We encountered four springs en route: two shortly after the village, and two closer to the refuge. These are their respective names and coordinates: Avragonia 39.972059, 20.731626; Antlaki 39.972601, 20.739708; Trafos 39.976063, 20.753486; Krouna 39.976889, 20.76049. The last one was dry in late August.
It took exactly two hours to cover the 7 km and 1,000 meters of ascent from the parking area to the Astraka refuge on the ridge. A beautiful location, it overlooks Zagori to the west and the ephemeral alpine lake of Xeroloutsa Tsoumani, nestled at the bottom of a tremendous karst basin to the east. You can book on the refuge’s official site if you’re planning to spend a night there.
We were on a day run and moved straight past. A short way down behind the hut, the trail splits into a fork: one path heads north of the lake toward Dragon Lake, and the other south of the lake toward the Tymfi plateau and its northern peaks. We took the latter, aiming for Gamila peak.
That was where Acid abandoned us—partly because some vicious shepherd dogs warned him off from their post at the bottom of the basin, and partly because he apparently had some friends at the refuge who would feed him better than we could afford.
We reached the bottom after a 150-meter descent. It took a while for the shepherd dogs to get used to our presence and shut up. Amid the reinstated calm and the grazing cow herd, we lounged in the last patch of shade below some rocks, took a snack break, and caught our breath before resuming the ascent under the harsh midday August sun.
The inclination onward was smooth compared to the first leg of the trip. In the absence of wind, the quiet was profound. Only the rhythmic swish of our brushing pants and our breathing pants broke the silence. Enjoying some breathtaking views along the way—particularly from a point just below the summit that clings beside Tymfi’s vertical northern face—we stepped onto Gamila Peak at 12:10.
The weather was perfect. Dragon Lake below and the various other peaks of Tymfi, Mount Smolikas and Grammos to the north, the endless ridges of Pindus all around… they all bathed in glorious meridian sunlight, composing an awe-inspiring image. After enjoying our leisurely lunch and plenty of lingering amid this fantastic setting, we headed back the same way.
We were open to the idea of visiting Dragon Lake on the way down; it would only have added another two hours or so to the round trip. By the time we reached the fork, however, we were tired and low on water. So we skipped it and continued down. We’ll come back another time, probably from Konitsa.
After waiting behind a line of mules to drink from the first spring, we were back at the car by 16:30—ten hours since our morning start. We headed straight to the village of Aristi for a cold dip in the river and a hearty dinner at one of its taverns, before driving back to our temporary home in Elliniko.
Tours & Activities in Zagorochoria
Photos
View (and feel free to use) all my photographs from Mount Tymfi in higher resolution.
