Rising to 1,246 meters, Mount Kandyli (or Kandylion) is the fifth-highest mountain on the island of Evia, standing out due to its dramatic, sheer western slopes that plunge directly into the sea. Along its 15 km coastline, the rugged terrain makes land access impossible, leaving a series of secluded beaches that can only be reached by boat.
One of the most remarkable of those beaches is called Meluna (location). It is reachable by hiking or within 5 km of sailing from Dafni Beach by the mountain’s south foot. On a smaller beach nearby, a hermit lived isolated for about two decades, fishing and raising a handful of sheep. He sadly passed away recently, but his self-built shack still stands on the spot.
On the eastern slopes, dense forests remain largely untouched by recent wildfires. Pine forests dominate the lower elevations, while firs take over at 500 meters, making it possibly the lowest-altitude fir forest in Greece.
The northern section of the mountain bears the scars of past magnesite mining, with abandoned pits now transformed into lakes. Since the mines were abandoned in 1990, these areas have begun developing into unique ecosystems, offering a fascinating blend of industry and nature reclaiming itself.
Mount Kandyli features a few notable landmarks, including the Saint Nicholas Galatakis Monastery (location), offering scenic sea views and historical significance. The Transfiguration of the Savior (location) Byzantine Church showcases remarkable Byzantine architecture, while the Beza Medieval Tower (location) stands as a well-preserved medieval relic of the area’s past.
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Access to Mount Kandyli
The closest settlements to Mount Kandyli with tourist amenities are Limni to the north and Dafni to the south. Other options include Prokopi and Chalkida, the island’s capital. All lie within 1-3 hours from Athens by car or bus. If you’re planning a road trip on Evia and haven’t got a car already, you can compare some of the best rental deals here.
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Hiking on Mount Kandyli
The highest peak of Mount Kandyli, Stroungitsa, can be reached by two main routes:
- From Troupi Village: The most popular and direct approach begins in the village of Troupi, passing through forests on a mix of dirt roads and sparsely signed trails. Hikers first reach Zoodochos Pigi Church, where the sea comes into view, before transitioning to rocky terrain that requires some scrambling to reach the summit. One way is 4.8 km and should take 2–3 hours.
- From Dafnousa Village: A more challenging and less marked alternative, passing by Beza Tower.
From the summit, hikers are rewarded with stunning panoramic views of the gulf, central Evia, and its other major peaks—including Dirfys, Pyxarias, and Telethrio.
A multitude of other hiking trails span the long mountain, reaching its numerous other peaks. My most memorable hike on Kandyli was a three-day traverse of the entire ridge, starting from Kamaritsa village and finishing in Prokopi. Here’s that trip report (in Greek).
History
In antiquity, Mount Kandyli was known as “Makistos”, a name thought to originate from Makistos, son of Phrixus. Another theory suggests it was named by settlers from ancient Makistos in Ilia, who sought to preserve the memory of their homeland.
The mountain played a strategic role in ancient times, housing watchtowers used for fire signaling—a primitive form of optical telegraphy. According to mythology, these signals were used to transmit news of Troy’s fall to Mycenae.
Places to Visit nearby
- Limni: A picturesque coastal town with a charming harbor, great seafood, and historical sites.
- Drymonas Waterfalls: A stunning natural attraction featuring lush greenery and cascading waterfalls.
- Prokopi: Famous for the Saint John the Russian Church, a significant pilgrimage site.
- Chalkida: The vibrant capital of Evia, known for its unique tidal phenomenon and lively waterfront.
Video
Photos
View (and if you want use) all my photographs from Mount Kandyli in higher resolution.
