Perched on the coast below the village of Gouves, the Metaxa Bunker—also known locally as the Fort of Gouves—was part of the naval defense system constructed in 1938 under Prime Minister Ioannis Metaxas. One of eight similar fortifications along Greece’s key maritime routes, its mission was to defend the entrance to the Northern Euboean and Pagasitic Gulfs, safeguarding naval assets such as the ports of Chalkida, Piraeus, Thessaloniki, and Patras.
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Contents
Architecture & Armaments
This coastal fortress is more than a series of surface bunkers: it’s an integrated complex of reinforced concrete blocks connected by underground tunnels. Within, visitors once found officer quarters, soldier barracks, command centers, radio and telephone stations, mess halls, stores (for food, fuel, and ammunition), medical posts, and water tanks—designed to sustain a full garrison for up to ten days. The bunker’s heavy armaments, transferred from the decommissioned battleship Lemnos, included three 178 mm guns, three 76 mm guns, and a pair of German 37 mm AA guns.
Wartime History
- April 1941: Luftwaffe bombers targeted the coastal defenses including the fortress and the guard vessel Damaskini, which controlled an anti-submarine net across the Artemisio Strait. The fortress’s AA guns reportedly shot down an enemy plane, while Damaskini endured incendiary bomb hits on April 17 and 19. Ultimately, it was sunk on Easter Sunday (April 20, 1941), right where it shadowed the fort.
- April 23, 1941: After German forces captured Athens, they ordered the demolition of the fortress’s heavy guns. Subsequently, the Germans occupied the site before transferring control to Italian forces later that summer.
- 1944 & Civil War: By autumn 1944, the site was handed over to Greek Security Battalions. It later served as a hideout for resistance partisans during the Greek Civil War. Tragically, local reprisals soon followed: 18 villagers were executed nearby after the killing of a German officer.
Visiting Today
Decades of abandonment, weathering, and looting have left only partial remains, but they’re compelling history. Today, thanks to efforts by the local Gouves association and the municipality, key elements have been cleared and preserved, including gun emplacements, trenches, pillboxes, and a hilltop observation post. However, most underground chambers remain inaccessible due to safety concerns. If you hike along the beach and up the hill to the east, you are sure to discover plenty of fortification remnants.
How to Get There
From Istiaia, drive about 16.6 km through Pefki and Vasilika until you reach Gouves. Turn toward Kastrí and look for a small sign after the village school—then follow a well-maintained dirt road for the final 2.5 km. Coming from Chalkida, it’s a scenic 112‑km drive via Agia Anna and Vasilika. Arriving at the site, you’ll discover an atmospheric landscape of military architecture blending into olive groves and pine forest, overlooking the Aegean.
If you’re planning a road trip on Evia and haven’t got a car already, you can compare some of the best rental deals here.
Why Visit
Exploring the Metaxa Bunker offers more than a walk through military remains—it’s a journey into multiple layers of Greek 20th-century history. From its interwar construction and WWII battles to the shadow of the Civil War, the site captures a turbulent era. Today, it stands as a quietly haunting place where nature and humanity intersect in concrete, earth, and memory—a must for military historians and curious travelers alike.
Accommodation
The area around the Metaxa Bunker is quiet and under-the-radar when it comes to tourist infrastructure, but you’ll find a few compelling options if you plan ahead. Right beside the site itself, the spacious Villa Poseidon Artemisiou is a seaside villa ideal for larger groups, with room for up to eight people and a direct view over the northern Evian Gulf—practically at the edge of history.
Just a few minutes south, in the tiny village of Paleokastro, you’ll find two well-equipped guesthouses: Casa di Calma, a serene and modern retreat with lush gardens, and this charming 80m² holiday home, perfect for families or small groups looking for a peaceful countryside base.
For a wider range of options—including seaside hotels, studios, and apartments—consider staying in Pefki, around 20 minutes away. As one of the more developed beach resorts in northern Evia, it offers more variety, though without the immediate proximity to the historical site.
Explore more options on the convenient map below:
Stay22 is a handy tool that lets you search for and compare stays and experiences across multiple platforms on the same neat, interactive map. Hover over the listings to see the details. Click on the top-right settings icon to adjust your preferences; switch between hotels, experiences, or restaurants; and activate clever map overlays displaying information like transit lines or concentrations of sights. Click on the Show List button for the listings to appear in a list format. Booking via this map, I will be earning a small cut of the platform's profit without you being charged any extra penny. You will be thus greatly helping me to maintain and keep enriching this website. Thanks!
Places to Visit nearby
Visit Nearby
- Pefki – Just a short drive north, Pefki is one of North Evia’s liveliest summer resorts, with a long sandy beach, plenty of tavernas, and ferry access to Thessaly.
- Mount Xiron – The rugged and forested massif southwest of the bunker area is great for scenic drives and hiking, offering views across the northern Evian Gulf.
- Ellinika – A tranquil village and beach area to the northeast, known for its islet chapel of Agios Nikolaos and a string of peaceful coves.
- Koutsoupri Beach – A quiet and somewhat undeveloped beach south of Gouves, perfect for solitude and unspoiled coastal scenery.
- Agriovotano Beach – Further along the coast, this hidden spot is for those willing to venture off the beaten track—raw, beautiful, and largely untouched.
Video
Photos
View (and if you want use) all my photographs from Metaxa Bunker in higher resolution.
