Kalamos is a small coastal village on the eastern side of central Evia, wedged scenically between the better-known beaches of Agioi Apostoloi and Korasida. Though still under the radar for many, it’s a place of growing popularity among those in the know, thanks to its rare double beach, crystal-clear waters, and low-key, unspoiled feel. Just over two hours from Athens by car and around 67 km from Chalkida, Kalamos is easiest to reach via the inland village of Neochori. There are no buses to the beach, which helps preserve its remote atmosphere and limits it to those willing to make the drive.
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The Twin Beaches: Kali and Kakia
The defining feature of Kalamos is its split shoreline—two consecutive beaches separated by a bluff that juts into the sea like a natural partition. Locals affectionately call the left beach “Kali” (the Good) and the right one “Kakia” (the Bad), not because of any moral standing, but due to the character of the sea. Kali is the calmer, more protected of the two, making it the more family-friendly option. It features sunbeds, umbrellas, and several beach cafés and tavernas that allow for a relaxed, well-serviced day by the sea.
Kakia, on the other hand, is for those seeking something a little wilder. This side of the bluff opens more directly to the Aegean and tends to have rougher waters and stronger winds. It has no organized facilities, making it the preferred spot for free campers and people who value quiet, solitude, and natural beauty. Both beaches are stunning, with white pebble and coarse sand underfoot and the kind of turquoise-to-deep-blue water gradient that makes even seasoned Greek beachgoers pause.
The Village of Kalamos
The village itself is tiny, with just a handful of permanent houses and a smattering of seasonal activity. It hugs a narrow cove, with some of its buildings practically spilling into the sea. Despite its size, Kalamos offers a few valuable conveniences: a couple of lodges and rooms to let, a small general store, and a free public parking area that sits conveniently close to the beach. It’s a place where time feels suspended—ideal for unwinding without the noise and flash of more developed resort towns.
Where to Stay
Kalamos may be a small village, but it offers several inviting places to stay, ranging from modest rooms to stylish beachfront retreats. While not a traditional resort destination, its lodgings are close to the sea and well-suited for anyone looking to spend more than just a day in this scenic part of Evia.
Tota Marinou is a reliable and well-located option just a few steps from the beach. Rooms are simple, clean, and equipped with essentials, ideal for travelers who want proximity to both Kali beach and the village’s eateries. For a more elevated experience, Puerto Seaside Rooms is part of the same establishment as the beach bar and restaurant. It offers modern, air-conditioned accommodations with stylish decor, giving you seamless access to beachside lounging and Mediterranean meals.
A little farther inland but still conveniently placed, Moka Evia Island is a boutique guesthouse offering tastefully designed rooms, a peaceful garden setting, and easy access to both Kalamos and Avlonari. It’s a good choice if you’re looking to explore the region more broadly while retreating to a quiet base each night.
Traditional family-run stays are still part of the fabric here too. Telonis Taverna and Rooms combines a beloved taverna with modest beachfront lodging—perfect if you want a true local experience. And for family-friendly apartments surrounded by citrus trees, To Galazio tis Marias Elenis offers simple but spacious accommodation with kitchens, shaded gardens, and private parking.
Wherever you stay, Kalamos keeps the sea close and the mood unhurried. Booking in advance during summer weekends is wise, as rooms tend to fill quickly once the season kicks in.
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Where to Eat
Despite its size, Kalamos has no shortage of inviting places to eat—especially if you enjoy traditional Greek flavors with a local twist. Dining here often feels like visiting someone’s family kitchen, with recipes passed down through generations and ingredients often grown just steps away.
- Telonis Tavern is a longstanding favorite right on the beach, known for its hearty grilled meats, fresh fish, and home-cooked specialties made from the family’s garden produce. It’s also attached to a small guesthouse, making it a one-stop option for both dining and sleeping by the sea.
- Oi Gefseis tis Elenis (“Eleni’s Flavours”) delivers homestyle Greek cooking in a cozy, family-run setting. Expect comforting classics like stuffed tomatoes, meatballs, and oven-baked moussaka—all prepared with a level of care that reflects the tavern’s roots going back to the 1950s.
- Barba Bill Greek Taverna offers a broader mix of grilled meats, seafood, and stews in a casual but well-organized space near the main beach. It’s known for generous portions and friendly service—great for a long, lingering meal after a day in the sun.
For a caffeine fix or something cold between swims, Plori Cafe serves coffee, ice cream, and quick snacks just off the main beach road. It’s a low-key spot to recharge in the shade before heading back to the sea.
Practical Notes
Parking is free and close to the beach, but in high season—especially weekends—you may still need to walk a bit. The village’s low-key profile has faded slightly in recent years as word spreads, so a weekday visit might provide the calmest experience. The beach’s depth drops off relatively quickly, though the entry is smooth, making it suitable for both confident swimmers and families with children who stick close to shore. And while Kali beach offers more facilities, it’s not overly developed. Kalamos remains, at heart, a natural escape.
Places to Visit nearby
- Agioi Apostoloi – Just up the coast, this charming fishing village offers a peaceful bay, clear shallow waters, and a picturesque little port. It’s perfect for a quiet stroll, fresh seafood by the sea, or an easygoing day at the beach.
- Korasida Beach – One of the most dramatic beaches on Evia’s eastern side, Korasida features a long stretch of white pebbles and vivid blue waters, framed by steep hills. It’s windier and wilder than Kalamos, ideal for those seeking raw Aegean beauty.
- Avlonari – A stone-built mountain village with winding alleys, Byzantine churches, and a striking Venetian tower. It’s a lovely inland detour, especially if you’re interested in architecture and traditional Evian life.
- Ancient Dystos – Inland from Aliveri, this quiet archaeological site surrounds a lake and includes ruins from the Classical era, including city walls and remnants of a theater. It’s a great spot for peaceful exploration.
- Mourteri – A popular beach south of Kalamos, Mourteri stretches out under tall cliffs and offers a blend of beach bars and more remote corners. It’s easily accessible and good for swimming, sunbathing, and watching the Aegean swell.
- Manikiatis Waterfall – Hidden inland and best visited in spring or early summer, this small but scenic waterfall near the village of Manikia rewards a short hike through lush greenery. It’s one of the rare freshwater spots in this otherwise coastal region.
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Photos
View (and if you want use) all my photographs from Kalamos Beach in higher resolution.
