Out of the many medieval monasteries found in the periphery of Athens, the Monastery of Kaisariani is probably the most renowned. The monastery is situated on the northwestern foot of Mount Hymettus, within a charming grove known as Kaisariani Aesthetic Forest. The forest in particular, and the entire mountain, feature a plethora of beautiful hiking trails to be explored. Its vicinity to the city center and its relatively good accessibility by public transport make it an ideal destination for a brief escapade from Athens’ hustle and bustle.
When my girlfriend’s parents recently visited us from Liverpool, I chose this place to take them on a day trip out of the city. Below, you find the trip’s description and itinerary. But before that, I’m here giving some pieces of information you may find useful for planning your own tour to Kaisariani Monastery and Aesthetic Forest.
The History of Kaisariani Monastery
Owing to the dating of its church, Kaisariani Monastery is believed to have been established in its present state in around 1100 AD. However, archeological evidence suggests that the site’s history as a place of worship long predates that period. The site is said to have hosted a temple dedicated to Aphrodite during antiquity. And like all pagan centers of Greece, it was converted to an Orthodox monastery during the forced Christianization that started with the reign of Emperor Theodosius in the late 4th century AD.
The first mention of the monastery in recorded history is made by Pope Innocent III, following the country’s occupation during the Fourth Crusade in the early 13th century. The site doesn’t seem to have been taken over by Catholics during the approx. two and a half centuries Attica’s occupation by the Crusaders lasted.
When the region was finally occupied by the Ottomans, in 1458, the victor Sultan Mehmed II is said to have visited the monastery. The site is mentioned again by French doctor Jacob Spon as the place he received the key to the city in 1675.
Kaisariani Monastery was briefly granted the privileged status of a Staurepegion – i.e. an independent monastery; not subordinated to the local religious authorities – after a decree of Patriarch Dionysius IV in 1678. But that was soon retracted by Patriarch Neophytos VII in 1792.
During the apex of its activity, between the 16th and 18th centuries, the monastery hosted several prominent figures of Greek-Orthodox scholarly thought. It also maintained an extensive, eminent library, which probably included original ancient manuscripts. The collection disintegrated in the 19th century, many of the documents being sold to English travelers, and others even being used as tinder during the siege of the Acropolis in 1826-27.
Following its decay, the monastery was finally dissolved altogether in 1833, and it more recently was converted into a museum.
Opening Hours & Entry Fee
The site of Kaisariani Monastery, during the summer months, opens daily from 8:30 until 16:00, except Tuesdays. It also remains closed on national holidays. A €3 admission fee (€2 reduced) applies to enter its premises. Check out the Ministry of Culture’s official website for more up-to-date information.
How to get there by bus
By far the easiest way to go to Kaisariani Monastery is to drive. If you don’t have a car, you can get there by bus 250 from Evangelismos Metro Station. You get off at bus stop Geologia, and walk for some 45 minutes to the monastery. It should take you about an hour and a half to reach the place by public transport. Also, note that buses schedule times are far from reliable.
Our Day Trip to Kaisariani Monastery (and other nearby places to visit)
As, in our case, we had a car, it took us a half-hour drive to get to Kaisariani Monastery, early in the morning. Being the days of the COVID pandemic, we were the only people visiting, and the site staff seemed rather gratified for us relieving them from their boredom.
We paid our tickets, wore our masks, as requested, and were allowed to enter the ancient monastery’s premises. We took our time to wonder at the elegant architecture and alluring artworks of the historically-opulent site; duly enjoyed the serenity of the cool and quiet yard, and interacted with its cute feline denizens; took plenty of nice photos… and continued with our day trip, checking out some more interesting places to be found in the monastery’s vicinity.
Kalopoula Refreshments
Still in the waking-up process, our first stop was for a coffee at the cafe known as Kalopoula Refreshments. That is located along the road A112 leading to the ridge of the mountain, about a km after the monastery. Its exact position is 37.9638, 23.8041. It is made by a little stone kiosk surrounded by a rather broad, densely-shaded yard with bench tables. The place is run by the municipality of Kaisariani, and part of its profits is allocated to local social projects. It is a tradition for Athenian day-trippers to not pass by the area without a stop for a drink and snack in this charming place.
Tower of Anthousa
Our next stop was the Tower of Anthousa, located a bit further up along the way to the mountain ridge. Coordinates: 37.9709, 23.8063. This is a stone tower overlooking the city of Athens from the slope of Mount Hymettus. Its origins are unknown, but its style suggests it was built during the Ottoman era. This belief is reinforced by the colloquial name Koula (meaning tower in Turkish) by which locals often refer to it. The tower is imposing and the surrounding views astounding.
Monastery of Taxiarches Asterion
This is another, smaller Byzantine monastery, located along the road to the ridge at 37.9697, 23.8111. Its erection dates back to the 10th century. Unfortunately, it happened to be closed during our visit. But we still managed to climb its thick, barbed-wire-topped stone wall and have a peek inside.
Antenna Park – Mount Hymettus Summit
The road leads all the way up to the ridge of Mount Hymettus and terminates before a military base there established. Visitors should make sure to not approach the base too much, and definitely not take pictures of it. People commonly end up arrested for hanging around it. A little further down before the summit, you see a cluster of enormous communications antennas referred to as the Antenna Park. All these installations on the mountaintop remain, of course, controversial for many. But others may even find them impressive and picturesquely befitting the wild natural surroundings. The views from the ridge of Hymettus, both to Athens in the west and east Attica and Euboea in the east, are absolutely breathtaking. All other major mountains of Attica, such as Parnitha and Pentelicus, are also magnificently visible.
Kaisariani Aesthetic Forest Hike
On our way down, already afternoon, we parked again before the Monastery of Kaisariani to go for a nice short hike in the encompassing grove. Kaisariani Aesthetic Forest contains a maze of hiking trails and additional historical monuments, such as old churches and fortification works. It comprises a great diversity of local flora and some fauna species, such as birds and tortoises. Several viewpoints offer some amazingly scenic photographic opportunities. A trail can be followed all the way up to the highest peak of Mount Hymettus, called Evzonas. In the case of this trip, we described a small circle through the lower levels of the forest, and back to Athens we headed.
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