If you’re looking to hike Evia beyond its beaches and discover one of its most lush, soul-stirring landscapes, Agali Gorge should be high on your list. Nestled on the western flanks of Mount Dirfys, Evia’s tallest peak, this gorge delivers a blend of alpine wilderness, mythic forest, and quietly gushing springs—all within a couple of hours from Athens.
Hi! I’m Dimi, tour guide and writer of this blog. I offer affordable, custom private tours (hiking or driving) around Evia. If you need any help exploring the best of the island, get in touch.
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Getting to Agali Gorge
From Chalkida, head north toward Nea Artaki, turn right toward Steni, and then left at Kathenoi following signs to Agios Athanasios. Just past the village’s football field, the road ends at a small clearing shortly after a now-abandoned wooden hut that once served as a mountain refuge. Park here, lace up, and get ready—the adventure starts at the edge of the forest. Here’s the exact location of the trailhead.
If you’re planning a road trip on Evia and haven’t got a car already, you can compare some of the best rental deals here.
The Hike Begins: Into the Gorge
The trail begins gently, winding into a gorge rich with plane trees, scented herbs like thyme and oregano, and occasional bursts of mini waterfalls and pools. Between the gorge’s perpendicular walls on either side, you’ll cross small metal bridges that span the brook at its liveliest sections, especially after rains. Keep an eye out for mushrooms and fire salamanders, especially near the wetter parts of the trail during autumn.
About 800 meters into the route, the gorge bifurcates (fork location). Your normal, signed trail goes left. The right can lead you to the formidable, abrupt western foot of Dirfys. It’s a rough, steep, and strenuous route, but definitely worth it. From there, it’s also possible to climb to the summit of Dirfys over its western face (an uncommon route; I’ve done it once).
Back to the normal trail to the left, at 1.5 km from the trailhead, you’ll reach Arkoudovrysi (the bear spring, for some reason—don’t worry, there are no bears on Evia). This is a lush little plateau where water seeps from the earth in quiet rivulets. It’s the perfect place for a rest—cool shade, birdsong, and just enough flat rock to sit and snack.
In fall, this is prime salamander country, and in spring, the glades erupt in a carpet of violets, anemones, and wild chamomile. Even in summer, it’s shaded and cool.
Another 2.2 km onward, 3.7 km and 500 m of elevation gain from the trailhead, you’ll reach Kratia spring at 741 meters (location). This is a peaceful, picture-perfect spot that feels like nature pressed pause. The spring itself emerges from a stone-built fountain, worn smooth by time and the flow of cold, clear water. It gurgles quietly into small, shallow pools, perfect for rinsing your hands or just watching the ripples glide over pebbles.
Surrounding it, massive plane trees stretch their limbs skyward, their leaves dappling the light and casting moving patterns on the forest floor. Moss coats the roots and stones, and there’s usually a soft, earthy coolness in the air, even on hot days.
This is where most hikers turn back, satisfied with a solid dose of nature therapy. Want more? Head further up!
From Kratia to Dirfys’s North Refuge or Summit
After two more km from Kratia spring, you can reach the north refuge of Mount Dirfys (location)—a storybook wooden hut from where you can marvel at a stunning, far-flung view of central Evia over the gorge. The lodge is typically closed and only opens for larger groups after coordination with the Alpine Club of Chalkida (website), which manages it. This spot is also reached by a road, which you can use to drive down if you arrange for a car to be waiting.
By the hut begins the common, waymarked north approach to the Dirfys summit. While it is possible to make it to the top of Dirfys and back from the entrance of Agali Gorge in one day, it’s going to be a long and arduous trip of 18 km and 1,500 meters of elevation up and down. One time that I did it, it took me around 12 hours. Go for it if you’re feeling strong. But if you’d rather take it easy and enjoy a summer night in the mountains, you can always camp near the hut to break the trip down.
Tips for Hikers
- Bring water: You can refill at Arkoudovrysi or Kryovrysi, but always start stocked.
- Footwear matters: Trails are clear but rocky—hiking boots recommended.
- Avoid rainy days: The gorge can become hazardous in flash floods or after landslides.
- Watch your step: Loose stones and narrow ledges mean it’s not for flip-flops or casual strolls.
- Start early if you’re considering the summit or refuge—the trail gets progressively more remote.
Where to Stay near Agali Gorge
There are no accommodations right at Agios Athanasios village, but you’ll find excellent options nearby in Steni and Nea Artaki, both within a short drive. For a cozy mountain stay, check out the Hotel Steni, right in the heart of the village. It offers rustic charm, comfortable rooms, and easy access to local taverns and trails. If you prefer the coast, the Modern Apartment at Nea Artaki is a great choice—spacious, stylish, and perfect for relaxing after a day in the mountains.
Explore more options on the convenient map below:
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Places to Visit nearby
- Eria – A peaceful riverside spot near Kathenoi, perfect for a chilly dip, riverside hikes, and a relaxed picnic under towering plane trees. It’s also home to the 13th-century church of Panagia Monomeritissa, a hidden gem of Byzantine architecture.
- Steni Dirfyon – The liveliest mountain village in the area, Steni is packed with taverns, cafés, and hiking energy. It’s a great place to rest after a trek or gear up before one.
- Mount Xirovouni – Less traveled than Dirfys but equally beautiful, Xirovouni offers rugged trails, alpine meadows, and a wild, untouched vibe for hikers looking to go deeper into Evia’s interior.
- Chiliadou Beach – If you’ve earned your swim, drive east to Chiliadou. This Aegean-side beach is famous for its dramatic cliffs, clear waters, and raw beauty. Ideal for a post-hike cool-down.
Video
Photos
View (and if you want use) all my photographs from Agali Gorge in higher resolution.
