Florianópolis, the capital city of Santa Catarina state in southern Brazil, straddles the mainland and Santa Catarina Island, with over 40 beaches lining its Atlantic coastline. Often referred to locally as “Ilha da Magia” (Island of Magic), it blends urban life with natural surroundings—mountains, sand dunes, lagoons, and forested trails are all part of its geography. Interestingly, the city has a strong Azorean cultural influence, a legacy of Portuguese immigrants from the Azores who settled there in the 18th century. Despite its popularity among Brazilian tourists, especially in summer, parts of the island retain a laid-back fishing village atmosphere. If you’re interested in places where urban infrastructure and diverse coastal landscapes meet, Florianópolis offers an intriguing mix of beach culture, colonial heritage, and modern Brazilian life.
After almost two months in the state of Rio de Janeiro and a couple of days in São Paulo, we decided to spend the final month of our Brazilian visa in Santa Catarina. We kicked things off with a week in Florianópolis, which turned out to be rich in experiences and adventures. In this post, I’ll share the highlights of our stay, along with some useful info and tips for anyone planning a visit to the area.
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Day #1: Arriving, Settling, and Going on an Evening Stroll along Avenida Beira Mar Norte
We arrived in Florianópolis at the crack of dawn after a long overnight bus ride from São Paulo. Even at the bus station, which was a pleasant contrast to the chaos of São Paulo’s crackhead-infested terminal, it was clear we’d landed in a very different world. The tall skyline of tidy apartment buildings visible from the station entrance hinted at a society that was noticeably more organized and upscale.
We had a few hours to kill before we could check into our accommodation on the other side of the city. We spent them lounging at this chic little café just around the corner from the station—strong coffee, flaky pastries, the works—then caught an Uber to our place.
Tucked away at the dead end of a narrow, steep road off the coastal avenue, this homestay was the perfect blend of quiet, views, and proximity to urban buzz. We got a spacious suite with windows on three sides and access to a peaceful, artsy terrace for a bargain price. As I’m now writing, it’s currently unavailable (maybe it’s seasonal or under renovation), but it’s worth checking back. If not, there are plenty of other great spots marked on the map below.
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After an introductory walk down the street to Beiramar Mall for some shopping, we chilled all day at home, resting and working. We went out again in the evening for a walk along Avenida Beira Mar Norte. Precariously crossing the several lanes of speeding traffic on one of Florianópolis’s main thoroughfares, we stepped onto a broad promenade that stretches along the shoreline, where locals jogged, cycled, walked their dogs, or simply sat facing the sea and the skyline lights reflecting on the water. Lining the avenue were upscale restaurants and bars, popular for business lunches and evening drinks, often with seafood-heavy menus and floor-to-ceiling windows. We preferred to dine at this mundane burger place we found in the quieter, northern extension of the avenue, named after a certain Governor Irineu Bornhausen.
Day #2: Sightseeing in Downtown Florianópolis
We devoted the next day to exploring the city proper of Florianópolis, getting around exclusively on foot. Here are some of the most notable sights we stumbled upon:
Getúlio Vargas Square
Getúlio Vargas Square (Praça Getúlio Vargas) is a small but historically significant public space in downtown Florianópolis, framed by old fig trees and bordered by colonial-era buildings and civic institutions. Named after Brazil’s former president, the square features a statue of Vargas and serves as a subtle reminder of the country’s 20th-century political shifts. It’s not a major tourist stop, but it does host occasional cultural events and public demonstrations, reflecting its role in civic life. The shade from the massive fig trees makes it a quiet retreat for office workers on lunch break and an informal meeting point for locals.
Metropolitan Cathedral of Florianópolis
The Metropolitan Cathedral of Florianópolis (Catedral Metropolitana de Florianópolis) stands on a hillock overlooking Praça XV de Novembro and is one of the city’s most recognizable landmarks. Built beginning in the mid-18th century on the site of a small chapel dedicated to Our Lady of Exile, the cathedral blends baroque and neoclassical elements, with twin bell towers and pastel-yellow walls that stand out against the skyline. One of its most curious features is an 18th-century whale jawbone displayed near the entrance—a nod to the island’s whaling past. The interior is modest compared to larger cathedrals but holds a quiet, lived-in reverence, with intricate woodwork and painted ceilings. Whether or not you’re drawn to religious architecture, a short visit to the Catedral Metropolitana de Florianópolis offers insight into the city’s colonial foundations and enduring traditions.
Historical Museum of Santa Catarina
The Historical Museum of Santa Catarina (Museu Histórico de Santa Catarina) is housed in the ornate Palácio Cruz e Sousa, directly facing the Metropolitan Cathedral of Florianópolis in the city’s central square. This pink neoclassical building was once the seat of the state government and is named after Cruz e Sousa, a prominent Afro-Brazilian poet born in the city. Inside, the museum displays period furniture, art, and artifacts related to the political and social history of Santa Catarina, with rooms preserved in 19th-century style. Admission is free, making it an accessible stop for anyone curious about how the state’s identity has evolved over time.
15th November Square
15th November Square (Praça XV de Novembro) is the historic heart of Florianópolis, framed by colonial buildings, government offices, and the Metropolitan Cathedral of Florianópolis. Named after the date of Brazil’s proclamation of the republic in 1889, the square has long served as a civic and cultural center. Its most famous resident is a centuries-old fig tree with sprawling branches that stretch across much of the square—locals say it’s good luck to walk around it clockwise. The square also hosts markets, public performances, and the occasional protest, functioning as both a social gathering spot and a political stage.
Santa Bárbara Fort
Santa Bárbara Fort (Forte de Santa Bárbara) is a compact 18th-century military structure located near the edge of the city center in Florianópolis, originally built to defend the island’s western coastline and the strategic North Bay. It was part of a wider network of colonial-era fortifications constructed by the Portuguese to deter foreign incursions, though this particular fort never saw combat. Today, its whitewashed walls and restored stonework house a naval museum managed by the Brazilian Navy, displaying maritime artifacts, ship models, and documents related to regional defense. While modest in scale, the site gives a tangible sense of the city’s strategic importance during colonial times. If you’re interested in military history or lesser-visited historical sites, a short stop at the Forte de Santa Bárbara adds another layer to Florianópolis’s coastal narrative.
Felipe Schmidt Street
Felipe Schmidt Street (Rua Felipe Schmidt) is one of the main pedestrian corridors in downtown Florianópolis, running parallel to Avenida Rio Branco and connecting key parts of the commercial district. Originally part of a colonial-era road, it has evolved into a busy shopping street lined with mid-range stores, small arcades, and informal vendors selling everything from snacks to phone accessories. At midday, it fills with office workers, street performers, and students, creating a fast-paced but walkable stretch that reflects the city’s daily rhythm. The street is also dotted with occasional architectural remnants from earlier decades, tucked between modern storefronts.
Church of São Francisco das Chagas
The Church of São Francisco das Chagas (Igreja São Francisco das Chagas) is a modest colonial-era church located along Rua Felipe Schmidt, right in the commercial heart of downtown Florianópolis. Built in the 19th century and associated with the Franciscan order, the church features a simple façade and restrained interior, reflecting the humility typical of Franciscan architecture. Despite being surrounded today by busy shops, street vendors, and foot traffic, the building has endured as a quiet religious space amid the city’s commercial bustle. It’s not a major tourist attraction, but it still holds regular services and serves as a small historical anchor in a rapidly modernizing district.
Public Market of Florianópolis
The Public Market of Florianópolis (Mercado Público de Florianópolis) is a lively colonial-era structure located near the waterfront, serving as a social and commercial hub for the city since the late 19th century. Divided into two main wings and a central courtyard, it houses fishmongers, produce stalls, artisan shops, and a variety of small bars and eateries, many of which are packed during lunch hours and after work. A notable feature is the local tradition of standing at the bar for a pastel and beer, especially on Friday afternoons when the market becomes as much about socializing as shopping. The building itself, with its yellow facade and ironwork, is a listed heritage site and a rare example of Florianópolis’s preserved public architecture.
Day #3: Renting a Scooter and Driving to South Santa Catarina Island
One day was enough to see Florianópolis. We were now more excited about exploring more of the charming island of Santa Catarina. The lingering question was: how? There are, of course, buses running throughout the island. However, with such a limited timeframe, there was only so much we could reach using public transport. To make the most of our visit, we needed our own vehicle.
Rather than a car, we looked for a motorbike—both because it’s more pleasant to ride in the open around a summer island, and because—as we’d learned from previous attempts in Rio—it was impossible to rent a car in this country without a bloody credit card. Motorbikes weren’t in plentiful supply. Of the handful of renters we contacted—most of whom either wanted a credit card too or asked for exorbitant rental fees—we struck a reasonable deal with a dude for a 120cc scooter for three days. Here’s his WhatsApp number: +5548920014810.
We picked up the bike on the outskirts early in the morning and, for our first day, we headed south. Below are the nicest places we visited during this day trip. I’ve written about some of them in more detail separately and included links for further reading where applicable.
Ribeirão da Ilha
Our first stop was Ribeirão da Ilha: a historic district on the southwest coast of the island, known for its well-preserved Azorean architecture and long tradition of oyster farming. Settled in the 18th century by Portuguese immigrants from the Azores, the village still features rows of pastel-colored houses with tiled roofs, cobbled streets, and a small but striking colonial church—Nossa Senhora da Lapa. What sets Ribeirão apart today is its reputation as the oyster capital of Brazil, with many local families running small-scale farms and waterfront restaurants that specialize in fresh shellfish.
Read more: A Quiet Morning Ride to Ribeirão da Ilha and Sertão Waterfall
Sertão do Ribeirão & Carabina Waterfall
Crossing the hills over to the east coast, we drove past Sertão do Ribeirão: a rural enclave tucked into the island’s hilly interior. It’s a small community surrounded by dense Atlantic Forest, where hiking trails weave through old growth, small farms, and remnants of traditional Azorean culture. One of the area’s more hidden features is the Carabina Waterfall (Cachoeira da Carabina), a modest but scenic cascade which we reached via a short forested trail that starts near the village. The waterfall isn’t heavily signposted and lacks infrastructure, which keeps it off most tourist maps but adds to its appeal for those seeking quieter natural spots.
Pântano do Sul
We met the open Atlantic at Pântano do Sul and stopped for a short walk. This is a traditional fishing village located on the southeastern coast of the island. Though it has grown modestly over the years, the area still retains a working-class, maritime character, with boats anchored close to shore and restaurants serving seafood caught the same day. The beach itself is long and wide, with more locals than tourists. The sea was rough during our visit but can be calmer in other seasons.
Lagoa do Peri
By lunchtime, we ended up on the shore of Lagoa do Peri to have our pre-made sandwiches. This is the largest freshwater lagoon on Santa Catarina Island. Unlike the more urbanized Lagoa da Conceição, this area is part of a protected environmental reserve, with calm, shallow waters suitable for swimming, kayaking, and family outings. The surrounding park includes trails that lead through native vegetation and past old water mills from the colonial period. Birdwatchers often frequent the area due to its variety of native species, especially in the early morning.
Read more: Lagoa do Peri: Forest, Monkeys, and Calm Waters in South Florianópolis
Praia da Armação
Just across the narrow strip of land that separates the lagoon from the ocean, we went for a walk along Praia da Armação: a crescent-shaped beach historically known as a whaling station during colonial times—its name comes from the Portuguese word for the equipment used in processing whales. Today, it’s a small fishing village with colorful boats lining the shore and modest homes scattered along the hillsides. The sea here is generally calm in the bay’s northern end and rougher toward the southern tip, making it a mix of safe swimming and light surfing spots. A short footbridge connects to a rocky islet used for fishing, and trails from the beach lead to more remote destinations like Matadeiro Beach across the river.
Read more: Praia da Armação and Matadeiro: Scenic Beaches in Florianópolis
Praia Lagoinha do Leste
Later in the afternoon, we topped off our day with a short yet rewarding hike to Praia Lagoinha do Leste: one of the most remote and rugged beaches in Florianópolis, located on the island’s southeastern coast and accessible only by hiking trails or boat. Surrounded by steep hills and dense Atlantic Forest, the beach features a long stretch of white sand and a freshwater lagoon (the “lagoinha”) nestled at its back. It remains undeveloped—there are no roads, buildings, or services (other than a beach shack and a lifeguard tower), which helps preserve its wild, isolated character.
Read more: Lagoinha do Leste Beach Hike on Santa Catarina Island
Praia dos Açores
Just as dusk fell, we drove to Praia dos Açores in search of dinner. This beach takes its name from the Azorean settlers who colonized the island in the 18th century, though today it’s more known as a peaceful retreat than a historic site. The beach has clean, coarse sand and moderate waves, making it popular with local surfers and families looking for less crowded spots. While development has reached the area, it remains mostly residential, with only a few small markets and guesthouses. We found only a single open place to grab a quick bite before starting back home.
Day #4: Hiking by Lagoa da Conceição and Dining with Argentine Steak under the Lit Hercílio Luz Bridge
On our second day of processing the bike, Sophie had a long working shift and stayed home. I rode alone to Lagoa da Conceição: a large saltwater lagoon located near the center of Santa Catarina Island, which functions as both a natural landmark and one of Florianópolis’s most socially active neighborhoods. Surrounded by sand dunes, hills, and Atlantic Forest, the lagoon is popular for water sports like windsurfing, kayaking, and stand-up paddleboarding. The area around its southern edge has grown into a lively district filled with bars, cafés, markets, and music venues, particularly active during weekends and summer months.
My destination today, however, was the lagoon’s isolated western coast. Markedly different from the busy parts, this side is characterized by steep forested slopes, limited road access, and a more secluded, rural atmosphere. I went on a shoreside hike to a small community called Costa da Lagoa, accessible only by boat or on foot, passing babbling streams and remnants of Azorean stonework along the way. Houses were often perched above the water, connected by wooden walkways and boat docks, with a few lakeside restaurants catering to visitors arriving by boat taxi. Here’s the complete story of this trip if you need more details.
Having lived exclusively on burgers and the like since our arrival, this evening was the time to feast. Sophie found a nice Argentine steak restaurant located on the mainland, right below the Hercílio Luz Bridge. We had an exquisite meal with a glass of good red wine and a view of the elegantly lit bridge. I was going to link to the place, but I can’t find it on Google Maps anymore—unfortunately, it might have closed.
Day #5: Road Trip to North Santa Catarina Island
On our last day with the bike, we took a road trip to the northern part of the island. These were our stops:
Santo Antônio de Lisboa
As in our southward road trip, we kicked off the day in a historic Azorean village on the bay side. Founded in the 18th century, Santo Antônio de Lisboa is known for its well-preserved colonial architecture. The area still features cobblestone streets, colorful houses with wooden shutters, and a small baroque church—Nossa Senhora das Necessidades—facing the calm waters of the bay. The neighborhood has become known for its traditional oyster farming, as well as its growing number of art galleries, craft shops, and seafood restaurants that line the waterfront.
Read more: Santo Antônio de Lisboa: Colonial Charm in North Florianópolis
Daniela Beach
We continued with a stop at Praia da Daniela: a small, sheltered beach on a spit of the northwestern coast, between forested hills and the calm waters of the Baía Norte. Unlike the island’s ocean-facing beaches, Daniela has gentle waves and shallow waters, making it a favored spot for families with children and those looking for quieter swimming conditions. The surrounding neighborhood is mostly residential, with few commercial establishments, which helps maintain a low-key atmosphere even during the high season. There’s also a stretch of undeveloped shoreline that borders a protected mangrove area, offering a more natural environment for a peaceful walk.
Read more: Praia da Daniela: Calm Waters and Quiet Charm in North Florianópolis
Fortaleza de São José da Ponta Grossa & Praia Forte
Not far from Daniela, we then visited Fortaleza de São José da Ponta Grossa: an 18th-century Portuguese fort located on a rocky promontory at the northwestern tip of the island. Built as part of a coastal defense system against foreign invasions, it overlooks the narrow channel between the island and the mainland. The structure has been restored and now features original cannons, stone walls, and a small museum detailing the region’s military history. Just below it lies Praia do Forte, a small, calm beach with clear, shallow water and a mix of local homes and summer rentals. The beach itself is less crowded than its neighbors, and the view of the fortress from the sand gives it a distinctive historical backdrop.
Read more: Fortaleza de São José da Ponta Grossa, Praia Forte, Jurerê
Jurerê
We then grabbed a coffee in the nearby town of Jurerê, particularly its upscale, planned development known as Jurerê Internacional. The streets there are lined with luxury homes, boutique hotels, and beach clubs, especially active during the summer high season, when electronic music events and social gatherings draw a younger, affluent crowd. On this day of our visit, several live gigs were taking place on stages set up throughout the town.
Praia Lagoinha do Norte
Next destination: the northernmost beach of Florianópolis, Praia Lagoinha do Norte. Despite its reputation for being a quieter destination, during our visit it was the busiest beach we encountered on the island—restaurants were full, and the shoreline was packed with umbrellas and beachgoers. The area is largely residential, with a mix of vacation homes and eateries catering to seasonal crowds. It remains easily accessible by road and shouldn’t be confused with the isolated Lagoinha do Leste on the opposite side of the island.
Praia Brava
Another short ride brought us to Praia Brava, known for its strong surf, steep shoreline, and surrounding green hills. The name “Brava” means “fierce” in Portuguese, which reflects the beach’s reputation among surfers for its consistent and often powerful waves. Over the years, the area has seen increased development, with mid-rise condos and seasonal hotels catering to visitors during the summer, though it remains quieter in the off-season. The beach attracts a mix of surfers, younger crowds, and families familiar with the sea conditions, while its backdrop of hills and cliffs adds a rugged feel to the landscape..
Lagoa da Conceição Southern Shore
On the way back to Floripa, we stopped at Dunas da Lagoa. These expansive sand dunes located between Lagoa da Conceição and Praia da Joaquina, form one of the most distinctive landscapes on Santa Catarina Island. Shaped by Atlantic winds and bordered by patches of vegetation, the dunes stretch for kilometers and are constantly shifting, creating a dynamic terrain of peaks, valleys, and wind-sculpted ridges. The area is popular for sandboarding, a local adaptation of snowboarding, with rental stands and informal instructors clustered near the main access point. Despite the frequent crowds, especially in summer, parts of the dunes remain open and quiet, offering views of both the lagoon and the ocean.
Lastly, we had a sunset beer at the developed south shore of Lagoa da Conceição. That was a densely built-up stretch featuring a mix of homes, inns, restaurants, and water sports rental shops pressed between the hills and the water. The golden-hour view across the lagoon and toward the dunes was breathtaking.
Day #6: Morro da Cruz Hill for a Sunrise View of Florianópolis
Just before returning the bike, exactly 72 hours after collection, we got up at dawn to take advantage of the last couple of hours we’d have it in our possession. We drove to Morro da Cruz, a hill located just above downtown Florianópolis, offering one of the most accessible panoramic viewpoints of the city. At an elevation of about 285 meters, it overlooks the bridges, the urban center, the island’s western bay, and parts of the mainland beyond. While popular at any time of day, it was especially striking at sunrise, when the city slowly emerges in soft light and the water below reflects the changing sky.
After returning the bike, we chilled all day at home and got ready to depart for Praia do Rosa in the morning.
