Hidden in the green folds of Central Evia near the village of Kathenoi, Eria isn’t the kind of place that screams for attention. Instead, it hums a soft, steady rhythm of running water, rustling plane trees, and age-old legends. Though it’s no longer home to the little waterfall that once made it a local summer secret, Eria still draws those in search of tranquility, cold river dips, and time away from the world’s volume.
This is not just a scenic riverside. It’s also home to one of the region’s most remarkable yet little-known religious monuments: the Byzantine church of Panagia Monomeritissa, a tiny, centuries-old structure steeped in mystery, miracles, and folk legends.
Long before the dam collapsed and the waterfall dried up, Eria was our summer haven. We’d pile into cars with backpacks full of sandwiches and beers, ready for a day of doing absolutely nothing productive. The deep pool at the base of the fall was glacial—shockingly cold even in July. A rope dangled from a tree above, and we’d take turns swinging out like jungle gym heroes before splashing down with yells that echoed through the woods.
Sometimes we’d camp. And sometimes, we’d throw impromptu raves. Just friends, river stones, beats bouncing through the trees, and the thrill of dancing where no one but the moon could see you. It was raw and beautiful, and though the landscape has shifted, the energy lingers.
Hi! I’m Dimi, tour guide and writer of this blog. I offer affordable, custom private tours (hiking or driving) around Evia. If you need any help exploring the best of the island, get in touch.
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Contents
How to Get to Eria
Along the road from Chalkida to Steni, just before Katheni village, you’ll see a sign directing left towards Eria (turn location). Follow the road down until the parking space by the church. Then take the path down to the river.
If you’re planning a road trip on Evia and haven’t got a car already, you can compare some of the best rental deals here.
Where to Stay near Eria
The nearest accommodations in the area are found in Steni, with seasonal options available in smaller nearby villages. Explore options on the convenient map below:
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Between Sheep’s Wool and Priests: The Name and the Land
Two theories persist about how Eria got its name. One ties it to the “eria”—the wool of sheep and goats that shepherds once washed in the cold river waters. The other roots it in the Greek word for priests (hiereis), possibly linked to the monastic community that once operated here. Whichever version you believe, both evoke a deep connection between the land, the water, and the lives shaped around them.
Eria today falls under the Municipality of Dirfys, and though modern infrastructure is minimal, the natural beauty is maximal: plane trees, wild greenery, and the ever-present murmur of the river.
The Vanished Waterfall and What Remains
For years, a small artificial dam at Eria created a cascading waterfall and a deep natural pool—a beloved summer retreat for locals in the know. The dam, however, collapsed during a powerful flood, and the waterfall is now a memory. But don’t let that deter you.
Eria is still a place where you can lay your towel on a rock, dip into shockingly cold mountain water, and feel like you’ve dropped off the map. There are river trails to hike, roots and stones to climb, and plenty of space for a leisurely picnic under the trees.
May 1st is the one day Eria gets crowded. Locals pour in to celebrate the arrival of spring with grilled meats, music, and laughter—a spontaneous village festival that still feels wonderfully uncommercial.
The Byzantine Soul of Eria: Church of Panagia Monomeritissa
Tucked quietly within this riverscape is one of Evia’s earliest surviving churches, the 13th-century Church of the Presentation of the Virgin (Panagia Monomeritissa). Built likely in the early years of Frankish rule, this small stone structure was once the heart of a Byzantine monastery, long since vanished.
The church itself is cross-shaped with a dome, only 4.8 by 6.5 meters in size, yet brimming with character. The name “Monomeritissa” (“built in a single day”) refers to a local legend: during Ottoman rule, Christians were given only 24 hours to construct their churches. In one version of the story, a Turk tried to tear down the dome upon completion—only to fall mysteriously to his death, supposedly pushed by an unseen force. The villagers saw it as a miracle, and the site has carried that aura ever since.
Inside, despite soot and age, the wall paintings from 1637 remain visible. The Pantokrator watches from the dome, flanked by angels and evangelists. The Platytera (Virgin with Christ) graces the apse. The quality of the frescoes, attributed to painter Zacharias Drakoulis, is among the finest post-Byzantine artwork in the region.
Some even say that on the Feast of the Presentation (February 2nd), the icon of the Virgin weeps during the service—a mystical mourning for the state of humanity. Another legend speaks of a stag that once arrived every year to drink from the river before being sacrificed during the feast. When villagers skipped the ritual rest and rushed to slaughter it, the stag vanished forever.
Places to Visit nearby
- Agali Gorge – Just a short drive away, this dramatic gorge offers excellent hiking through shaded trails, cliffs, and bubbling streams. It’s one of Evia’s best spots for nature lovers and a perfect follow-up to a visit to Eria.
- Monastery of Panagia Myrtidiotissa (Palioura) – Tucked into the green hills near Kathenoi, this peaceful monastery is known for its calm atmosphere and warm hospitality. A quiet place for reflection with panoramic views.
- Steni Dirfyos – One of the liveliest mountain villages in Evia, Steni is packed with traditional taverns, guesthouses, and access to Mount Dirfys. Great for hiking, eating, or just strolling under the chestnut trees.
- Nea Artaki – A seaside town north of Chalkida, Artaki is ideal for fresh seafood, relaxed beach walks, and an evening ouzo by the water after a day in the mountains.
Photos
View (and if you want use) all my photographs from Eria in higher resolution.
