Elliniko is a mountain village in the Tzoumerka region of Epirus, nestled on the western slopes of the Pindus range. Built at an altitude of about 750 meters, it is a traditional settlement with stone houses, narrow lanes, and views over the Arachthos River valley. The village is historically connected to the nearby Monastery of Tsouka, a fortified 18th-century complex perched dramatically on a cliff above the river. Although small in size, Elliniko has been known for its role in local resistance movements during both Ottoman and modern times. The name “Elliniko” (meaning “Greek”) is relatively modern, adopted during the 1920s as part of a toponymic Hellenization campaign carried out across the recently liberated provinces of northern Greece. The village’s previous name was Lozetsi.

While Elliniko isn’t one of the most famous villages in Tzoumerka, having a good friend living there gave us the perfect excuse to settle in for a full week and use it as our base to explore the rest of Tzoumerka and other fascinating corners of Epirus. During our stay, we took the opportunity to thoroughly discover this underrated village. In this post, I’ll share the best spots we uncovered in case you’re passing through and want to take a look yourself.

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Accommodation in Elliniko and around Tzoumerka
If you intend to spend a night in Elliniko, there are a few great options for rustic guesthouses:
- Lozart Traditional Stone House: A cozy stone-built guesthouse blending rustic design with modern touches, set in a quiet village atmosphere ideal for a low-key mountain retreat.
- Ksenonas Philoxenias “Athena”: A family-run guesthouse offering traditional hospitality and scenic views, with homey interiors and a peaceful location suited for nature lovers.
- House in Lozetsi Village: A self-contained village home featuring basic comforts and a private setting, great for travelers seeking a quiet and simple base in the region.
Beyond Elliniko, you can also check out my friend’s charming traditional guesthouse in the neighboring village of Kostitsi, or browse more great stays across Tzoumerka below.
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Sojourning in Elliniko was a pleasure in itself. My friend’s sweet, 85-year-old neighbor greeted us every morning with her kindness and old-time stories. Every passerby waved warmly, as if we’d known each other forever. A lonely little girl—sadly, one of the few children left in the village, as is so often the case across the Greek countryside—whizzed back and forth on the swing across from our terrace, belting out her favorite songs.
Being late August, the ubiquitous fig trees were heavy with ripe fruit waiting to be picked, while the last raspberries clung to their bushes, just within reach if you were willing to thread your arm carefully through the thorns.

Tsouka Monastery
The most notable sight in Elliniko is the Monastery of Tsouka, perched on a rocky outcrop 2.5 km from the village center, overlooking the immense gorge of the Arachthos River. It was established in 1660 and is dedicated to the Nativity of the Virgin Mary. The setting is especially striking in both architectural and natural terms. The monastery played a role as a refuge and center of learning during the Ottoman period, reflecting its historical significance beyond its religious function. Though still active, it’s typically quiet, with few visitors, offering a contemplative atmosphere. We didn’t see any monk or visitor, but the monastery’s cat made itself our honorary guide.

Contemporary Art Museum of Theodoros Papagiannis & Village-Wide Exhibition
This is a museum dedicated to the life’s work and artistic legacy of locally born sculptor Theodoros Papagiannis. Housed in the old village school, the museum features a wide array of Papagiannis’s sculptures, drawings, and installations, many reflecting themes from Greek history, mythology, and daily life. A unique aspect of the museum is its annual summer program, where art students from across Greece and abroad are invited to participate in workshops and create original works. These pieces are then installed throughout the village—on roadsides, walls, and public spaces—effectively turning Elliniko into an open-air gallery that grows year by year. The initiative blends contemporary art with rural life, creating a rare living museum environment that’s constantly evolving.

A Hike toward Mouzakei Village
Out of the many beautiful hikes we could’ve taken from Elliniko, we picked a trail leading to the neighboring village of Mouzakei. We intended to make it all the way there, but the weather took a sudden turn and forced us to dash back—just barely avoiding a good soaking. Along the way, beyond the stunning mountain views, we came across a lovely little church with a garden and an old stone bridge.

Food in Elliniko
Elliniko has three charming traditional taverns, where we enjoyed several delicious meals in their bucolic, tranquil settings.

Tours & Activities in Tzoumerka
Photos
View (and feel free to use) all my photographs from Elliniko and Tsouka Monastery in higher resolution.
