Doi Luang National Park, covering an area of 1,170 km2, is one of the largest national parks in northern Thailand. It was established in 1990 as a merge of four preexisting national parks. It is named after Doi Luang Mountain: a 1,426-meters-tall mountain located at the northern end of the park. It features numerous lush mountains, dramatic rock formations, waterfalls, caves, and points of cultural interest.
During a scooter trip around Phayao Province, after having spent the previous days in Phu Sang and Doi Phu Nang national parks, we arrived in Phayao City shortly before dusk. It was the days of the 2020 Coronavirus pandemic and the city was exceptionally quiet; all but desolate. We stopped by in some shops to buy some provisions and had a stroll by the shore of the placid lake. The dense, dark clouds that had occupied the sky throughout the entire day were just beginning to dissolve and we to wonder at some soul-captivating views of Doi Luang mountain being gradually unveiled through the rolling mists across the lake. We needed to settle for the night soon and that’s exactly where we were headed for.
Camping by Huai Thap Chang Lake
We got back on the bike and drove around Phayao Lake, past Ban Tom Village, and up a narrow road leading into the mountains. We soon arrived at a little picturesque lake occupying the bottom of a secluded basin. It was named on the map as Huai Thap Chang Lake. The views of the enveloping peaks were astounding. Apart from a little farmhouse at the opposite shore, there was no other sign of human civilization. We found a nice little spot on an elevated projection right beside the lakeshore and pitched the tent for the night.
It was already dark by then. Various nocturnal insects and birds initiated their mystic songs and raised a pandemonium of clamor. One particular kind of insect, I couldn’t take my mind off it being a chainsaw operated at the farmhouse, until its slashing cries growing louder later into the night compelled me to accept it for what it was. At one point, I made the mistake to unzip the tent to smoke a fag. A thick swarm of some tiny winged bugs rushed inside on cue. We had to kill (sorry little flies) literally hundreds of them that entered within just a few seconds of keeping the tent open. I had to smoke with the tent door closed before we hit the hay.
An overcast, yet wet morning we witnessed upon opening the tent again, hours later. The surface of the lake was flat as a sheet of paper; only occasionally rippled by some big fish having their morning bites of whatever yummy happened to land upon the water. A little boat left the house across the lake and slowly paddled towards its distant end. A farmer showed up in our position and passed a few times back and forth by our tent carrying bamboo sticks, never omitting to let go of a smile upon every passage. We had our breakfast, packed, and mounted the bike, setting off in exploration of Doi Luang National Park.
Phutthakhaya Pagoda & Wat Phra Kaew Temple
Our first stop was a temple that stood on the top of the hill right above the place we had slept. It took us a few minutes of driving around until we made it to the spot. The site was totally bereft of people and was probably meant to be officially closed. However, there was no-one on the spot to prevent us from entering. We saw a tall Hindu pagoda overlooking the lake and two small Buddhist temples, one of which was reduced to a Buddha statue and a concrete building frame over a carpet of charcoal. It seemed like a pretty recent fire.
Wat Analayo Tiphayaram Temple
Next, we headed to the nearby Wat Analayo Tiphayaram, which I may unreservedly state that it is the most beautiful temple complex I have so far visited in Thailand. Like all the country’s cultural and natural sites in those days, the complex was technically closed during our visit. But luckily, a cop appeared and let us know of that only after we had completed our short stroll around the site.
Secluded in deep vegetation and enormous, centuries-old trees, there lied quite a maze of paths going through a plethora of elaborate temples, shrines, fountains, statues, and wistfulness-generating relics of all sorts. That was a place I wouldn’t mind becoming a monk in for some time.
Ban Pang Pu Lao Village & Doi Luang Ridge
We rode the bike and headed further north along the eastern foot of Doi Luang. At Mae Chai Town, there starts a small winding road heading all the way up to the ridge of the mountain. Shortly before the ridge, we encountered a tiny secluded village known as Ban Pang Lao. The village was hemmed in broad lychee-tree orchards and the villagers were busy plucking them all around. We stopped at the upper end of the village to have our lunch while enjoying the wide view. A woman then came out from a house to offer us a bag of lychees which we gladly accepted and devoured on the spot.
The road then continues all the way up to the ridge and down to the other side of the mountain. However, it can hardly be called a road anymore. We struggled uphills on the scooter and made it to a beautiful viewpoint with a little wooden kiosk. We attempted to drive further up, all the way to the ridge, but we soon had to give up. The recent rains had the track so muddy that rendered it all but impassable for our little vehicle. It’s at times like this one regrets not having a proper off-road bike.
Pu Khang Waterfall
We headed back down the same way and followed various dirt roads further north along the foot of Doi Luang. At the northernmost tip of the range, there is located the Pu Khang Waterfall which was meant to be our last stop for this trip. Unfortunately, this time, the national park’s personnel were there to prohibit our entry. We tried to persuade them to let us in briefly, as a favor, but they remained unyielding. We had to give up. We got a few minutes of resting and headed straight back to Chiang Rai.
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