Lagoa da Conceição is a large lagoon located in the eastern region of Florianópolis, Brazil, surrounded by hills, sand dunes, and a patchwork of neighborhoods that blend local life with tourism. It connects to the Atlantic Ocean through a narrow canal and is a popular spot for water sports like windsurfing, paddleboarding, and kayaking due to its calm, shallow waters. Historically, the area was settled by Azorean immigrants in the 18th century, and traces of their culture remain in the food, architecture, and festivals. One notable feature is the long sand dune stretch known as Dunas da Joaquina, a popular site for sandboarding (check out my drone video from that spot). If you’re visiting, this is a good place to observe the contrast between natural beauty and Florianópolis’ evolving urban culture.
It was an exceptionally sunny day during our weeklong stay in Florianópolis. Sophie had a long shift to work. Mesmerized by the beauty of the clear sky, I decided to head out on a solitary hike. And for my destination I chose Lagoa da Conceição, mainly due to its proximity to the city center.
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In a 20-minute drive from our lovely apartment in downtown Florianópolis, I reached the settlement of Canto dos Araçás on the lagoon’s southwest shore. From there begins a hiking trail called Caminho da Costa da Lagoa ao Canto dos Araçás (trailhead location), tracing the secluded western shore of the lagoon—accessible only on foot or by boat.
Boats commute between twenty docks on the west shore and two on the east. I don’t know if they follow any schedule or what they cost. A few people waited at the dock in Canto dos Araçás. During the five hours I spent hiking and relaxing along the shore, I only noticed one or two boats en route.
The hiking trail leads all the way to the settlements of Canto dos Moreiras and Rio Vermelho Sul, north of the lagoon, at 9.4 and 14 km respectively. That would make a great end-to-end hike if you plan to take an Uber or something from the finish. But since I had to return to my motorbike, I chose to walk 5.5 km to Costa da Lagoa—the principal settlement on the lagoon’s west shore—and come back the same way.
To make the most out of your trip, you might also consider joining a guided tour. Offering tours of the lagoon by either boat or on foot, local guides can help you experience the area with added context, hidden spots, and a bit less guesswork. It’s a solid option—especially if you’re short on time or prefer not to hike solo.
On this occasion, I parked my bike by the port and hit the trail alone. After a small hill near the beginning, the path was even, smooth, and straightforward. Luckily, on this hot day, it was also mostly shaded, tunneling through thick, enchanting Atlantic Forest that offered intermittent glimpses of the lagoon. I didn’t encounter any other hikers en route, save for two small groups near the start. I did see plenty of birds, swarms of butterflies and dragonflies, and a yellow-ringed snake that darted from its basking spot on the trail into the bushes as I approached.
The shore was dotted with whimsical little properties, engulfed by verdure and vibrant flowers. Each had its own tiny wharf for boat access. The oldest of them was an abandoned 18th-century house, once part of a flour and coffee colonial estate. According to the map, there should also be a few waterfalls, but they turned out to be brooks. There is one actual waterfall, Cachoeira da Costa da Lagoa, located just above the village of Costa da Lagoa near the end of the trail.
At a leisurely pace, it took me just under two hours to reach Costa da Lagoa. Tucked between the forest and the water, with views across the shimmering lagoon and no roads to break the stillness, it felt like time drifted more slowly in this serene village. The presence of several restaurants and souvenir shops suggested it can get busier at times, but on that day, it was particularly quiet. I hardly saw a soul as I strolled among the colorful colonial houses, tangled gardens, and recycled art exhibitions lining the narrow, inclined paths.
The shore was slightly more lively, with a handful of boat-ferried visitor groups feasting on glutted platters of seafood in the restaurants. I found a quiet spot away from the crowd and sat on the grass, enjoying the placidity in the company of idle gulls and cormorants, before heading back the same way.
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View (and if you want use) all my photographs from Lagoa da Conceição in higher resolution.
