Chiliadou Beach is located on the east coast of central Evia, 57 kilometers from Chalkida and 135 from Athens. It is probably the most famous and beloved beach of Evia Island, as it is rightfully considered one of the most beautiful.
Its unique natural beauty was recognized by the European Film Commissions Network when in 2022 it honored it with the Best Film Location Award for the acclaimed film The Triangle of Sorrow of Swedish director Ruben Östlund. While it is so popular it has prompted the establishment of a Chiliadou’s Friends Club with thousands of members.
The central beach has a straight shape with a length of 1.2 kilometers and an average width of 40 meters. It is covered with sand and pebbles of various sizes and shades and scattered rocks. The sea is clear and its bottom is steep. You can’t stand after three steps, and after a few swimming strokes, an unfathomable chasm expands below you.
The orientation of the beach is approximately 20 degrees northeast. On its Aegean horizon, the entire Sporades Islands and the northern part of Skyros can be seen. Not being located in a bay, Chiliadou is very exposed to the north winds. Swimming can be difficult during the August Etesians, while in winter the entire beach is often swallowed by huge waves that penetrate until the road.
Behind the beach, the foothills of Mount Dirfys rise imposingly. The mountain’s sky-high peak becomes visible after a short swim out in the open sea. The steep slopes of Mavrovouni mountain are seen to the east as they also plunge into the endless blue of the Aegean. At the eastern end of the beach empties a river that originates from Stropones and flows through a spectacular gorge to Chiliadou. The riverbed is overgrown with giant plane and chestnut trees and other vegetation.
Across the river and behind the rocks east of the beach, there is a small, hidden side beach known as Spilia Chiliadous. Further east, behind the cliffs, stretch the hard-to-reach, long beaches of Panagia and Metohiou. West of Chiliadou, behind the characteristic rock that is cut like a slice, is Xiliados Beach (more often referred to as the Nudist Beach), off which lies the craggy islet of Cheliatho. Behind that beach, accessible by sea or a short path, hides the fairy-tale beach of Damianos (also known as Anamaki) with its wonderful cave. Even further west, accessible by boat or 4×4, lie the isolated beaches of Livadakia (or Germanou) and Kokkinia, bordered by the Trianisia islet complex.
The closest significant villages to Chiliadou Beach are Stropones and Metohi, both 12 kilometers away from the beach. Closer, there are also the elementary villages of Lamari, Koutourla, and Agia Irini. The main town of the region, and seat of the Dirfyon municipal unit to which Chiliadou belongs, is Steni Dirfyos, 29 kilometers from the beach. The settlement of Chiliadou itself was first censused in 1981, and during the 2011 census, it had 63 permanent residents. In all villages, fine local products such as chestnuts, walnuts, honey, and various fruits are sold.
The name of the beach comes from the medieval church of Panagia Chiliadous which stands one kilometer from the beach in the gorge. The etymology of the name is unclear. According to the local version, it was named so because it was the thousand-second (chilia-dyo is Greek for a thousand and two) church commissioned by Empress Theodora after she found a safe anchorage there that saved her from a storm. This theory, however, belongs to the realm of fiction because 1) Chiliadou is anything but a safe anchorage; 2) it does not explain how the same toponym appeared in various other places throughout Greece; and 3) the temple was founded in the 12th century, more than half a millennium after the time of Theodora.
Like the entire precipitous coast of eastern Evia, from ancient times until the beginning of the 19th century, Chiliadou was a stronghold of pirates. In fact, many of the native inhabitants of the wider area claim that they are descended from pirates.
Today, Chiliadou has developed into a popular holiday destination. Throughout the summer, it receives a multitude of diverse visitors, from families and foreign tourists to climbers and nudist-hippies. On the weekends and the first half of August, the whole beach is flooded with people.
Chiliadou is quite popular for climbing. On the large rocks in the middle of the main beach, and on the so-called Indian Wall at the Nudist Beach, there are climbing sites with bolted (albeit unmaintained) routes ranging in difficulty from 4 to 8+. The possibilities for bouldering and deep-water soloing are endless.
Chiliadou is also excellent for kayaking, with plenty of side beaches and caves to explore, as well as hiking in the gorge and many more trails higher up the mountain.
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How to get there
From Chalkida, take the road to northern Evia and in the center of Artaki turn right onto the provincial road of Artaki-Kymi. Enjoying the wonderful views, you cross Steni, the col between Dirfys and Xirovouni, and you descend on the other side gazing at the vast Aegean Sea. Immediately after Koutourla village, you leave the main road and continue towards the sea following signs for Chiliadou. The distance from Athens to Chiliadou is 135 kilometers and takes 2.5 hours at a reasonable speed.
During the summer months, there are few, not daily bus routes between Chalkida and Chiliadou. Exact itineraries are announced before each season. Find them out on the bus company’s website or call them on 22210 20400.
Accommodation
Only one hotel operates at Chiliadou Beach:
There are also these two smaller guesthouses: Aeraki and Albatross. Higher in Stropones village, you can check out this economical and neat accommodation: House Evia.
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Most excursionists and vacationers in Chiliadou choose free camping. Unless you manage to secure a good spot near the rocks, you definitely need a canopy on the beach. On the river bed and in the copse at the Nudist Beach, shade and space abound. Free camping in Chiliadou is officially and theoretically prohibited, but it is very common. Although I know of cases where people got fined, it’d be a huge jinx for it to happen to you.
Food
Several restaurants and cafes operate at Chiliadou Beach. Some recommendations are Rinnis and Glaros taverns for seafood, Xylino for souvlaki, Sta Kala Kathoumena for pizza and sandwiches, and Ziafeti, Alia, and Prasino for coffee and snack. There is also a mini-market.
Photos
View (and if you want use) all my photographs from Chiliadou Beach.
