Chicamocha Canyon and Mesa Los Santos lie just outside Bucaramanga, in Colombia’s Santander department, a region defined by deep river gorges, dry highland plateaus, and dramatic elevation changes over short distances. Chicamocha Canyon is one of the largest canyons in South America and a major natural landmark, known both for its vast scale and for the hiking routes that descend into the canyon itself. Mesa Los Santos, the elevated plateau above it, offers a completely different landscape—cooler temperatures, rural roads, and scattered viewpoints—and is also popular for independent hikes, paragliding, and long walks across farmland and forest edges.
After completing a full-day hike on the Camino Real from Barichara, we initially planned to explore Chicamocha by motorbike directly from there. However, rental prices in Barichara—mostly ATVs—were absurdly high, so we changed plans and headed first to Bucaramanga instead. We stayed there for a couple of nights and rented a motorbike at a far more reasonable rate, then set off on a road trip that took us down into Chicamocha Canyon and back up onto Mesa Los Santos in one long day, combining both landscapes into a single loop.

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Renting a Motorbike in Bucaramanga
We found plenty of motorbike rental options in Bucaramanga, with prices far more reasonable than in Barichara. After checking a few places, we settled on this guy, who offered the best rates and a solid range of different bikes to choose from. We went with a 200cc dual-sport: a good compromise between comfort for several hours on the road and decent off-road capabilities for the ride down into the gorge.
The rental shop itself was essentially a small bike mechanic’s workshop that also rents bikes. The owner was friendly, straightforward, and honest. Overall, an easy recommendation if you’re planning a similar ride from Bucaramanga.

The Ride from Bucaramanga to Chicamocha Canyon
We left our accommodation just after seven, the city still wrapped in fog from the night’s rain. Bucaramanga was already awake. We spent the first stretch threading through dense traffic, then pushed steadily south along a wide, noisy road cutting through an endless sprawl of suburbs, exhaust hanging heavy in the damp air.

Gradually, the city loosened its grip. The road narrowed and began to drop, bending sharply as it plunged into thick rainforest. Everything turned green and enclosed—wet leaves, hanging vines, the constant sense of descending somewhere deeper and more remote. The change was fast, almost abrupt.
Near the bottom of the canyon, the vegetation shifted again, and just as suddenly. Green gave way to browns and pale yellows—cacti, prickly pear, scrubby bushes clinging to dry soil. We stopped on the bridge to take in the view, the river far below carving its way through the rock, then crossed and climbed briefly on the other side.

A short distance later, we turned off onto a dirt road and dropped back down into the canyon toward Jordán. The landscape felt harsher and quieter now. Small houses sat scattered among sparse farms, iguanas darted across the road in front of the bike, and vultures stood patiently by the roadside or circled overhead, watching everything move slowly through their territory. In just about 2 hours since our start, we made it to Jordán.

A Walk in the (not so) Ghost Town of Jordán
Jordán is often labeled a ghost town, largely because of its isolation deep inside Chicamocha Canyon and its long population decline. Like many small settlements in the region, it developed around agriculture and river access, then slowly lost relevance as roads improved elsewhere and younger residents moved toward larger cities. What remains today is a place that feels marginal and forgotten on maps, but not abandoned in any absolute sense.

In reality, it was far more animated than the nickname prepares you for. The village sits right by the river, with a handful of houses clustered around a small square with a fountain and a modest church. The local school was clearly active—kids running, shouting, and playing—hardly the soundtrack of a dying town. By the church, a man was selling mango and ice cream out of a cool box, doing steady business.


Animals filled in the gaps where infrastructure didn’t. Dogs and chickens wandered freely everywhere, in and out of the church, while goats picked their way across the slopes above the village, eating whatever they could find. One café was open and loud, blasting traditional music from oversized speakers—much of it centered on drinking, judging by the lyrics.

Inside, the scene matched the soundtrack. A group of men were already drunk at nine in the morning, a table crowded with a few dozen empty beer bottles, crates of beer stacked casually in the middle of the yard. We had a simple coffee and a pastry, sat for a few minutes taking it all in, then climbed back onto the bike and started the long ride back up out of the canyon.

Chicamocha National Park (Panachi) Station
From Jordán, we continued climbing up the southern face of the canyon. Not far into the ascent, we were waved down by the police. While I was still fumbling for my driver’s license on my phone—and quietly hoping they wouldn’t ask for the bike papers, which the rental guy had never bothered to give us—they seemed to clock us as tourists and simply waved us on without checking anything.

The road eventually brought us to the main station of Chicamocha National Park, set right on the crest of the landmass perched within a dramatic, 180-degree bend of the canyon. The park is commonly referred to as Panachi from its acronym (Parque Nacional Chicamocha). It’s a strange and striking location with sweeping views in every direction.

Official parking is available inside the complex (25,000 COP for cars and 15,000 for motorbikes). We simply rode 20 meters further and left the bike by the roadside.

This is where the park’s cable car departs, dropping all the way down into the canyon and climbing back up the opposite side in a long, exposed ride. It runs regularly during the day, and a standard ticket (park entrance + cable-car ride) costs around 86,000 COP for adults and 58,000 COP for children/seniors, with prices and schedules varying by season and weekday. The station itself is more than just a transport hub: the wider complex includes an aquapark, a Guane museum, an ostrich park, plus several cafés, restaurants, and souvenir shops.

We didn’t explore much of that. Instead, we grabbed a fresh juice at one of the cafés with a balcony hanging right over the cliff edge and sat there quietly, taking in the scale of the canyon below—an easy, almost surreal pause after the rough roads deeper down.

Mesa Los Santos
From the park station, we retraced a good stretch of the road back toward Bucaramanga before turning off onto the steep, winding climb up to Mesa de los Santos. The ascent was sharp and constant, a tight series of bends lifting us onto the plateau above. The change was immediate: cooler air, wider horizons, and a sense of space after the enclosed depths of Chicamocha.

Mesa de los Santos feels like a different world altogether. The plateau is broad and open, dotted with farms and fincas, and noticeably busier than anything we’d seen down below. Restaurants, small hotels, and weekend places line the main roads, catering to visitors drawn by the views and the escape from the heat of the lowlands. From the edges, the land drops away abruptly, offering long views toward distant mountain ranges on the horizon.

We rode south across the plateau to the town of Los Santos, perched right above the northern rim of Chicamocha Canyon. After parking, we took a short walk around town. The square was simple but striking, dominated by an enormous tree providing deep shade, with a church facing it across the open space. It felt calm and unhurried—a quiet ending to a long day of riding, high above the canyon we’d spent the morning descending into.




We rolled back into Bucaramanga just before dark. The light was fading fast, traffic thickening again, and the first drops of rain started to fall as we found our way through the city—closing the loop almost exactly the way the day had begun.
Accommodation & Activities in Chicamocha Canyon
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Photos
View (and feel free to use) all my photographs from Chicamocha Canyon, Jordán, and Mesa Los Santos.
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