Perched on a rugged hilltop east of Chalkida, the Castle of Fylla—known locally as Kastelli and often referred to as the no castle due to the large “ΟΧΙ” (no in Greek) that is inscribed on its wall—is more than just another medieval ruin. This stone sentinel overlooking the fertile Lelantine Plain is a symbol of fierce ambition, personal betrayal, and imperial politics. Once the stronghold of one of the most dramatic figures in Byzantine-Genoese history, the castle still looms proudly over the modern village of Fylla, inviting you to scale its slopes and uncover the tale of a knight who defied his fate.
Visible from elevated lookouts in Chalkida and much of the northern Attic coast across the island, the castle dominates the landscape. Growing up in the area, I often climbed there with friends in the dark, driven by excitement and a lust for discovery. I still visit it often—sometimes for a quiet moment of introspection, other times with guests on my private tours of Evia.
Hi! I’m Dimi, tour guide and writer of this blog. I offer affordable, custom private tours (hiking or driving) around Evia. If you need any help exploring the best of the island, get in touch.
Affiliation disclosure: By purchasing goods or services via the links contained in this post, I may be earning a small commission from the seller's profit, without you being charged any extra penny. You will be thus greatly helping me to maintain and keep enriching this website. Thanks!
How to Get to the Castle of Fylla
The Castle of Fylla is accessible via numerous hiking trails and a road leading to a small parking lot (location) right outside it. The village of Fylla is particularly labyrinthine, and it’s not easy to find your way through it to the hilltop; I still struggle. Avoid driving inside the village—the GPS can take you through some very tight and rough roads and often to dead ends. The easiest way is to reach the village cemetery (location) coming from Vasiliko and take the road uphill from there. From the parking lot, you can walk straight into the castle.
If you’re planning a road trip on Evia and haven’t got a car already, you can compare some of the best rental deals here.
Where to Stay near Fylla
There are no guesthouses in Fylla or the nearby inland villages, but you’ll find good options just 15–20 minutes away in Bourtzi and Lefkandi.
For a stylish, comfortable stay, go with Lago di Bourtzi—a high-end hotel with sleek rooms and sea views. On a budget? Mpiritis Rooms in Lefkandi offers clean, simple accommodation right near the beach. Both are great bases for visiting the castle while enjoying the coast.
Explore more options on the convenient map below:
Stay22 is a handy tool that lets you search for and compare stays and experiences across multiple platforms on the same neat, interactive map. Hover over the listings to see the details. Click on the top-right settings icon to adjust your preferences; switch between hotels, experiences, or restaurants; and activate clever map overlays displaying information like transit lines or concentrations of sights. Click on the Show List button for the listings to appear in a list format. Booking via this map, I will be earning a small cut of the platform's profit without you being charged any extra penny. You will be thus greatly helping me to maintain and keep enriching this website. Thanks!
The Castle of Fylla Today
While the castle was partially dismantled by the Ottomans in the 15th century to prevent its reuse, the northern and western sections remain remarkably intact. The stonework still shows signs of the castle’s original defensive sophistication—narrow corridors for quick movement, blind alleys to trap intruders, and lookout towers peeking over the valley.
Climb the Walls and Take in the View
Once you step past the ruined eastern gate, the castle opens up into a dramatic landscape of crumbling towers, stone staircases, and commanding views. From the surviving northern ramparts, you can gaze across Central Evia and down toward the South Euboean Gulf—exactly the vantage point from which medieval guards once scanned the plains for enemy movements. You can climb up to the wall tops for an even better view, but be cautious.
The Noble Mansion and Hidden Courtyards
Within the walls lie the remnants of a once-impressive two-story manor, believed to have been the residence of the castle’s lord. The western wall still shows traces of its arched, ceramic-framed windows, a flourish of Byzantine elegance in an otherwise martial fortress. Inside, you’ll find the stone staircase that would’ve connected the noble quarters with the battlements above, and narrow corridors leading to auxiliary rooms and barracks.
Water Cistern and Military Quarters
A rainwater cistern sits near the center of the complex, a lifeline in times of siege. Surrounding it are foundations of what archaeologists interpret as soldiers’ quarters, proof that this wasn’t just a lookout post, but a fully functioning garrison. The southern corner is marked by a long rectangular building, which may have housed storage rooms or even a chapel.
The History of the Castle of Fylla
Ghosts of a Knight: The Story of Licario
But no visit to Fylla’s castle is complete without knowing the legend of Licario. Born in Karystos to a Genoese father and Greek mother, Licario began as a minor courtier in Chalkida. His downfall—and rise—began with a forbidden romance. When he secretly married Feliza, a noblewoman under the guardianship of the powerful Carceri family, he was publicly humiliated and cast out.
Licario fled south to the crags of Cape Kafireas, settling in an abandoned fortress. But his love story turned into a campaign of vengeance. With backing from Byzantine Emperor Michael VIII Palaiologos, Licario returned as a mercenary knight and proceeded to reclaim Euboea from the Latin lords, castle by castle. After his final conquest of Castello Rosso in Karystos, he was rewarded with titles, land, and a prestigious Greek bride.
And yet, he never managed to conquer Chalkida—his ultimate goal. Disillusioned but triumphant, Licario chose the Castle of Fylla as his home. He spent his final days here, his fate cloaked in mystery. Some say he was poisoned by a lover from Chalkida; others believe he faded into obscurity. Either way, the stone walls he once commanded still whisper his name.
A Different Kind of Battle: The Story Behind the Castle’s “ΟΧΙ”
As if the medieval past weren’t rich enough, the Castle of Fylla played a symbolic role in a much more recent conflict. During the Nazi invasion of Greece in 1941, a local resistance fighter scrawled a bold, defiant “ΟΧΙ” (NO) across one of the surviving walls of the fortress—a gesture as raw and powerful as the stone it was carved into.
This wasn’t just an echo of Prime Minister Metaxas’s famous rejection of Mussolini’s ultimatum the previous year. For the people of Evia, and especially for those around Fylla, it was a very personal act of rebellion. In a time when German troops marched freely through towns and villages, this one-word message on an ancient wall stood as a silent scream of resistance.
There’s something deeply moving about that “ΟΧΙ” still being visible today. It bridges centuries of occupation and conflict—from Latin lords to Ottoman pashas to Nazi commanders—and reminds you that the castle, even in ruins, has never stopped being a place of defiance.
Exploring Fylla Village: More Than Just a Castle
Before or after your castle hike, make time to explore Fylla village itself—it’s full of quiet charm and low-key historical treasures that most people miss.
Right in the heart of the village, across from the church of the Virgin Mary, you’ll find the house of Andreas Miaoulis, legendary naval hero of the 1821 Revolution. A bust of the admiral stands proudly nearby, a reminder that even this sleepy village has shaped Greece’s modern history. Not far out of the village, you’ll see traces of a Roman aqueduct, its weathered stones still lining the old water route—a surreal meeting point between imperial engineering and rural Greek life.
For a break, head to the village’s small square, dotted with friendly taverns and cafés. Order a coffee or a meze plate, sit back, and watch village life unfold around you. Nearby lies a peaceful lake, ideal for a short stroll or a quiet moment before heading back to the coast. Fylla may be humble, but if you slow down, it’s a place that gives generously.
Places to Visit nearby
- Monastery of Saint George Arma – Just east of Fylla, this historic 12th-century monastery served as a spiritual stronghold during Ottoman times and features impressive Byzantine architecture.
- The Towers of Mytikas – These two medieval watchtowers rise over the vineyard-covered hills west of Fylla, offering a glimpse into the region’s layered military past.
- Lefkanti – A coastal town with a relaxed vibe, sandy beaches, and archaeological significance, including ancient burial sites and remnants of Bronze Age settlements.
- Bourtzi – A picturesque seaside hamlet perfect for swimming, seafood, and coastal walks. It’s also the closest place to stay if you’re visiting Fylla.
- Nea Lampsakos – Known for its excellent tsipouro and seafood tavernas, this lively village near the water is a great stop for lunch or a casual dinner by the sea.
Video
Photos
View (and if you want use) all my photographs from Fylla Castle in higher resolution.
