Perched atop the conical hill of Monte Folli, just 4 kilometers inland from Karystos, the Castello Rosso—or Kokkinokastro, as it’s known in Greek—is one of the most commanding medieval fortresses in southern Evia. Its name, meaning “Red Castle,” comes from the distinct reddish slate stones quarried locally, giving the walls a unique hue that glows under the Aegean sun. Though now in ruins, Castello Rosso remains a formidable presence on the landscape, offering visitors a direct connection to centuries of conquest, defense, and shifting power.
Overlooking fertile plains, the rugged slopes of Mount Ochi, and the coast beyond, this castle wasn’t just a strategic lookout—it was a seat of power. From Lombard barons to Byzantine knights, Catalan princes, Venetian merchants, and Ottoman generals, Castello Rosso passed through the hands of some of the most prominent forces that shaped the history of the Aegean. Today, it offers one of the most authentic medieval ruins in Greece, still bearing its defensive scars and architectural details.
Hi! I’m Dimi, tour guide and writer of this blog. I offer affordable, custom private tours (hiking or driving) around Evia. If you need any help exploring the best of the island, get in touch.
Affiliation disclosure: By purchasing goods or services via the links contained in this post, I may be earning a small commission from the seller's profit, without you being charged any extra penny. You will be thus greatly helping me to maintain and keep enriching this website. Thanks!
Practical Information
- Location: 4 km northwest of Karystos, between the villages of Myloi and Grampia (view on Google Maps)
- Access: Best reached by car through the village of Myli. From the parking lot (located here), it’s a 400-meter walk and a 60-meter ascent to the castle’s highest point, where a church of Prophet Elijah is today situated. You can also reach the castle grounds from the north side, via a trail starting from the Roman Aqueduct (north trailhead location).
- Admission: Free
- Best time to visit: Late afternoon for golden light and cooler weather
If you’re planning a road trip on Evia and haven’t got a car already, you can compare some of the best rental deals here.
Accommodation in Karystos
Stay22 is a handy tool that lets you search for and compare stays and experiences across multiple platforms on the same neat, interactive map. Hover over the listings to see the details. Click on the top-right settings icon to adjust your preferences; switch between hotels, experiences, or restaurants; and activate clever map overlays displaying information like transit lines or concentrations of sights. Click on the Show List button for the listings to appear in a list format. Booking via this map, I will be earning a small cut of the platform's profit without you being charged any extra penny. You will be thus greatly helping me to maintain and keep enriching this website. Thanks!
A Fortress Built on Empires: The History of Castello Rosso
The site was first fortified by the Byzantines around 1030, long before the structure you see today. But it was in the early 13th century, following the Fourth Crusade and the fragmentation of the Byzantine Empire, that the Lombard barons of the Dalle Carceri family constructed the medieval Castello Rosso on top of the older ruins. Their leader, Ravano dalle Carceri, established the castle as both a noble residence and a political stronghold—the de facto administrative center of southern Evia.
In 1276, the legendary Greek-Italian knight Licario, fighting for the Byzantine Emperor Michael VIII Palaiologos, captured the castle during a successful campaign to reclaim Evia. But in 1295, the fortress fell again—this time to Boniface of Verona, who considered Karystos part of his wife’s dowry. Under Boniface, the castle returned to Latin control, and the Byzantines never again regained a foothold in the region.
After Boniface’s death in 1318, Castello Rosso passed to the Catalan prince Alfonso Fadrique, and eventually, in 1365, the Venetians bought the castle and the Barony of Karystos for 6,000 ducats, seeking to control its valuable harbor. However, Venetian rule ushered in a period of decline—the population dwindled, and the once-powerful fortress was leased out to Italian noble families like the Giustiniani and Zorzi.
When the Ottomans conquered Chalkida in 1470, the Venetians withdrew quietly, leaving Castello Rosso to the forces of Koca Mahmud Pasha. Under Ottoman rule, the castle became known as Kızıl Hisar (Red Fortress), and although Greek families continued to live within its walls into the 17th century, their presence dwindled after their participation in the 1684 Venetian-Turkish war.
During the Greek War of Independence in the early 19th century, notable figures such as Odysseas Androutsos, Nikolaos Kriezotis, and Charles Nicolas Fabvier attempted unsuccessfully to capture the castle. It wasn’t until March 1833, after the liberation of Evia, that Castello Rosso finally came under Greek control.
Architectural Features: The Structure and Layout
Castello Rosso is a textbook example of Latin military architecture, adapted to the rugged terrain of southern Evia. It consists of two concentric enclosures, with walls that follow the hill’s natural shape. The outer curtain walls are made of rough-cut red schist stone, bonded with lime and gravel mortar, and still stand impressively tall, often up to their original battlements.
There were four towers, strategically placed to provide overlapping fields of defense. The main entrance lies on the southwestern side, next to a large courtyard, while a five-sided defensive tower rises on the southeastern edge. A massive rectangular two-storey building near the main gate—likely the noble residence—features arched windows and ceremonial halls, suggesting both residential comfort and grandeur.
To the north, the fortress contains its inner keep or citadel—the final line of defense. This inner stronghold includes a church dedicated to Prophet Elias and sits atop the castle’s main water cistern, hidden beneath a marble-paved floor. This ingenious use of space ensured that the fortress could survive long sieges with an internal water supply.
The “Crazy Bombard” and the Western Bastion
One of the most colorful legends of Castello Rosso comes from the time of Venetian rule. In the southwestern bastion, visitors can still see traces of the stronghold that once housed an enormous bronze cannon, nicknamed “Loli Loumbarda” (“Crazy Bombard”) by locals. Said to be 18 feet long, the gun was so powerful that when the Ottomans fired it, the blast caused tremors so intense it nearly collapsed the tower it sat on. After that single use, the cannon was abandoned—its terrifying strength more of a liability than an asset.
This bastion features decorative stone bands, likely repurposed from earlier classical ruins, and high vantage points that once served both defensive and observation purposes. The nearby cylindrical tower known as “Rocca”, and the secondary arched gate, were key for secret communication during sieges.
Why Visit Castello Rosso?
Aside from its strategic placement and panoramic views, Castello Rosso is remarkable for the layers of history embedded in its walls. It’s one of the few sites in Greece where you can physically trace the shifts of power from the Byzantines to the Crusaders, Catalans, Venetians, and Ottomans, all within one structure. Each era left behind its marks—whether in the Gothic-inspired towers, Venetian embrasures, or Ottoman living quarters.
Today, the castle is freely accessible, and while parts are in ruins, restoration work since the late 20th century has stabilized sections like the main gate, walls, and inner buildings. The site is relatively untouristed, offering a more authentic and contemplative experience than larger, more developed monuments.
The views from the top are stunning, with sweeping sightlines across the Karystos plain, the Aegean Sea, and the rolling slopes of Mount Ochi. It’s also a fantastic stop if you’re hiking nearby or exploring the villages of Myloi and Grampia, which lie at the base of the hill.
Places to Visit nearby
- Chartzani Medieval Tower & Twin Churches – A quiet hillside spot near Karystos, featuring a well-preserved Venetian tower and two adjacent Byzantine churches with elegant stonework and panoramic views.
- Taxiarches Monastery – A 17th-century monastery hidden in the hills near Kalyvia. Peaceful, shady, and historically rich, with frescoed chapels and a tranquil courtyard.
- Dragon House of Mount Ochi – A massive megalithic stone structure at the summit of Mount Ochi. Mysterious in origin, it’s accessible via a challenging but scenic hike.
- Dimosaris Gorge – A lush gorge with waterfalls, pools, and stone paths, stretching from the mountains down to Kallianos beach. Ideal for hiking and nature lovers.
- Platanistos Waterfall – A small but picturesque waterfall and natural pool near the village of Platanistos. A perfect short stop for a dip or picnic in the shade.
Video
Photos
View (and feel free to use) all my photographs from Castello Rosso in higher resolution.
