On the last day of our Carnival week in Rio, worn out from days of partying and sightseeing, we decided to spend a leisurely day at Ipanema Beach: one of the city’s most iconic shorelines, famous for its golden sands, rolling waves, and breathtaking views of the Two Brothers (Dois Irmãos) mountains. Stretching for 2 km along a lively neighborhood of the same name, it’s a hotspot for sunbathers, surfers, and beach vendors selling everything from açaí bowls to the classic biscoito Globo snacks. The beach is divided into postos (lifeguard stations), each attracting a different crowd—families, athletes, LGBTQ+ groups, and locals just looking to relax.
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After a long bus ride from our place in the suburbs, we got off near the middle of the beach and began our day with a stroll through the district’s upscale backstreets. Wide, tree-lined sidewalks stretched past gleaming apartment buildings with doormen standing watch, their lobbies cool and marbled. Expensive cars glided silently down the well-paved roads, a stark contrast to the chaotic traffic of central Rio. Chic restaurants spilled onto the sidewalks, while high-end boutiques displayed designer swimsuits and linen shirts in spotless glass windows. Luxurious hotels towered above it all.
After breakfast in this cozy café, we headed to the beach. I assume it must always be busy. But on a Sunday during Carnival, it was absolutely rammed. A sea of brightly colored parasols stretched across the sand, packed so tightly that finding space for another seemed impossible. The scent of grilled shrimp and fried pastéis wafted from the overflowing food kiosks, where waiters darted between tables balancing overloaded trays. Crowds in bikinis, board shorts, and shimmering Carnival outfits sauntered along the promenade. Food and beer carts drew long, impatient queues, customers fanning themselves with straw hats as they waited for their turn. The whole beach buzzed with an electric, carefree energy—an endless summer party under the sweltering Rio sun.
At one point, a Carnival bloco—an impromptu street party—took over the main road, which had been closed to traffic for the occasion. A huge, tightly packed crowd danced and sang along to blaring samba music, the heavy drumbeats and bright melodies echoing through the air. The energy was infectious, but looking for a more relaxed day, we bypassed it. Instead, after walking the entire length of the beach, we settled at a kiosk bar, ordered a refreshing caipirinha, and cooled off in the shade, watching the revelry from a peaceful distance.
Before sunset, we ended up at the beach’s eastern end. We took the path to the top of Ponta do Aproador, a rocky lookout offering a splendid panoramic view of Ipanema and the secluded shores of Praia do Diabo and Praia do Forte behind it. There, we also stumbled upon an open-air public gym, where free-to-use concrete weights stood under the sky—a raw, minimalist setup unlike anything I had ever seen before.
With darkness imminent and fatigue setting in, we caught the bus back home, already preparing for our departure to São Paulo the next day.
Photos
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