Barra de São João (or São João de Barra) is a small coastal town in the Brazilian state of Rio de Janeiro, located where the São João River meets the Atlantic Ocean. It is part of the municipality of Casimiro de Abreu and is known for its tranquil beaches, historical sites, and connection to the 19th-century poet Casimiro de Abreu, whose house is now a museum. The town has a relaxed atmosphere, attracting visitors looking for a quieter alternative to the busier beach destinations in the region.
During our two-week stay in the nearby city of Rio das Ostras, we took a day trip to Barra de São João. In this post, I share our experience, along with photos, a video, and tips you might find useful if you’re planning to visit this charming little town.
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We took an Uber to Barra de São João from our accommodation in the suburb of Santa Irene, located halfway between Barra de São João and downtown Rio das Ostras. By the way, BarraPraiaLagos Guesthouse is an excellent lodging option, offering spacious, ergonomic rooms and a lovely outdoor area—all at a bargain price. I highly recommend it, especially for long-term stays. If you prefer to stay within Barra de São João, you can explore more options on the map below.
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Barra de São João sits on a narrow spit of land between the Atlantic coast and the São João River. We stepped out of the taxi at the tip of the spit, where the town’s most notable landmark stands.
Built in the 17th century, Capela São João Batista is one of the oldest churches in the region. Its simple yet charming architecture embodies the traditional colonial style, with whitewashed walls and a modest bell tower. Perched atop a green hillock overlooking the river estuary, the chapel offers a peaceful, scenic view. Behind it lies a serene cemetery, adding to the site’s historic and contemplative atmosphere.
Beside the church lies a small beach named Praia da Prainha, a tombolo separating the ocean and the river on either side. It features a lifeguard tower and a rudimentary beach bar/parasol rental stand. Only a handful of families were present.
Beyond the beach stands a rock known as Pedra do Telégrafo. We climbed it for the best view of the town, the river, the ocean, and Morro São João Mountain, which dominates the terrene horizon.
We continued our stroll through the narrow cobbled roads, marveling at the beautiful, colorful colonial architecture of houses and additional old churches. We wound up at the busy main road and Praça As Primaveras (Spring Square), where the town’s second most notable point of interest is located.
The Museum of Casimiro de Abreu is housed in a restored colonial-style building where the renowned poet was born in 1839. Inside, visitors can explore his personal belongings, manuscripts, and exhibits highlighting his literary contributions, particularly his famous poetry collection Primaveras. Beyond its literary significance, the museum provides insight into the region’s historical and cultural heritage. Other exhibits include horse-drawn carriages, a piano, an analog cash register, and both classic and contemporary paintings. Admission is free.
Behind the museum, a riverside path with shaded benches offers a peaceful spot to relax. I found it truly pleasant to sit there for a while, gazing at the river and watching the fishing boats drift by.
Crossing to the other side of town, we walked along the vast, mostly empty beach. On one side, it was pounded by strong waves; on the other, it was bordered by a lush, protected zone.
We had lunch at Point da Baiana, a beachfront restaurant with a local vibe, good food, and reasonable prices. Lastly, we enjoyed a coffee at Nonna Cafeteria on the main road before taking a taxi home.
Photos
View (and if you want use) all my photographs from Barra de São João in higher resolution.
