Tucked in the narrowing middle of South Evia, between the modern towns of Aliveri and Karystos, lies a landscape that seems half-submerged in both water and time. This is the valley of Dystos, a wide plain partially flooded by a shrinking lake and ringed by limestone hills that block any view of the sea. In its center rises a steep, marble cone of a hill, 300 meters tall, and crowned by the ruins of one of ancient Greece’s most overlooked cities.
Hi! I’m Dimi, tour guide and writer of this blog. I offer affordable, custom private tours (hiking or driving) around Evia. If you need any help exploring the best of the island, get in touch.
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How to Get to Dystos
Along the main road leading from Aliveri to the south of Evia, 5 km after the village of Krieza, between a Shell (location) and an Avin (location) petrol station, you can take any of the dirt roads going west through the farm. They will all lead you to the shore of Lake Dystos. The Chapel of Saint George (location) is a good spot to park and start your hike to the hilltop. There is no trail. You improvise your way.
Where to Stay Near Dystos
The closest places where you can find accommodation near Dystos are the villages of Krieza, Velos, and Zarakes. I recommend these:
- Sylvia’s Village Home in Velos – A cozy, tastefully renovated house in a peaceful village setting. It’s ideal if you’re after tranquility and a sense of local life, with rustic charm and self-catering convenience.
- Christos House in Zarakes – A well-kept guesthouse with modern amenities and a welcoming atmosphere. Zarakes itself is a larger village with a few tavernas and shops, making it a good base if you want a little more going on.
Explore more options on the convenient map below:
Stay22 is a handy tool that lets you search for and compare stays and experiences across multiple platforms on the same neat, interactive map. Hover over the listings to see the details. Click on the top-right settings icon to adjust your preferences; switch between hotels, experiences, or restaurants; and activate clever map overlays displaying information like transit lines or concentrations of sights. Click on the Show List button for the listings to appear in a list format. Booking via this map, I will be earning a small cut of the platform's profit without you being charged any extra penny. You will be thus greatly helping me to maintain and keep enriching this website. Thanks!
Dystos Lake: From Prehistoric Wetland to Ecological Crisis
The lake of Dystos once covered between 1.5 and 4.5 square kilometers, fluctuating with rainfall and boasting a rich ecosystem. It likely formed in antiquity after the blockage of a sinkhole that once drained it into the Euboic Gulf. Today, it’s drying up rapidly due to excessive water extraction for farming and by the nearby AGET-Heracles cement plant. What remains is a ghost of a wetland, its waters retreating as fields take their place.
This lake, designated a Special Protection Zone and bird sanctuary, has been under consideration for Natura 2000 protection for over 15 years. Yet bureaucratic delays have kept it off the official list, even as its biodiversity suffers.
The Lost City on the Hill
On the hill known as Kastri, the ancient city of Dystos took shape as early as the Neolithic era. Blade fragments and pottery shards found along the lake’s edge suggest human presence stretching back millennia. But it was in the 4th century BCE that Dystos rose to prominence. With strong agricultural roots and proximity to the port of ancient Boufalo (modern Porto Boufalo), it flourished as a walled city.
Dystos was fortified with thick polygonal masonry walls, still visible today, complete with eleven towers and a single eastern gate flanked by defensive bastions. Inside the acropolis, archaeologists have uncovered residential quarters, storage areas, and even a “Great House” — a rare example of classical domestic architecture featuring a central courtyard, storerooms, and columned halls.
The Ancient Draining Project
Perhaps the most remarkable discovery tied to Dystos is an inscribed stone stele found in Chalkida, detailing a contract to drain the lake. Dating to the Classical period, the agreement was between a contractor named Chaerephanes and 230 Eretrian citizens. The plan included underground channels, shafts, and pipelines to divert lake water into subterranean fissures. It’s one of the earliest documented environmental engineering efforts in Greek history.
From Macedonian Siege to Roman Shadows
The only historical reference to Dystos comes from Theopompos, who mentioned that Philip II of Macedon passed through Eretria en route to besiege the city. After that, Dystos slips into obscurity. Coins and burial markers from the Hellenistic and Roman periods suggest the city endured, but without a significant political role.
During the Byzantine era, the hill was again fortified, and the Venetians later added a watchtower with sightlines to Karavos and Koutoumoulas. Today, only a corner of that tower remains, barely clinging to its original height.
Ruins in the Rock
Exploring Dystos is a physical endeavor. The terrain is steep and the walls massive, with stonework adapted to every twist of the natural rock. Buildings often wedge into the slope, with rock-cut foundations on one side and robust support walls on the other. Most dwellings were likely two stories, evidenced by pillar holes and collapsed roofing stones.
The city never moved to the plain—it remained perched on its marble summit, defying the valley’s malarial swamps below. Cemeteries lay at the foot of the hill, with sarcophagi carved directly into the rock and Hellenistic tombstones still visible.
Why Dystos Still Matters
Today, few visit Dystos, and fewer still grasp its importance. Yet it was a city that engineered its own landscape, survived political upheaval, and left behind one of the most substantial ancient architectural footprints in Evia. The vanishing lake beside it only deepens the symbolism: an ancient city on a hill, watching its lifeline slowly disappear.
The Village of Dystos: Life Beneath the Marble Hill
While the ancient city still clings to its limestone throne above the lakebed, the modern village of Dystos lives in its long shadow—quiet, low-slung, and almost defiantly unremarkable. You won’t find souvenir shops or interpretive signs here. Instead, there are tiled-roof homes, a handful of aging kafeneia, and a landscape that hasn’t changed much since the Ottoman tax registers last counted it.
Set back from the main road and partly hidden by groves and undulating farmland, the village is a place where locals know the ruins by name, not from textbooks but from memory—where stories about ancient coins unearthed in olive fields are told between glasses of retsina. It’s also the nearest settlement to the lake and hill, making it a practical waypoint for supplies or a quick rest. Don’t expect tourist infrastructure—but if you pause for a frappe at the main square, someone will likely point you in the right direction to the Chapel of Saint George, the unofficial trailhead to the ruins above.
There’s a raw authenticity here that makes Dystos feel like more than a footnote. It’s not a preserved village, but a living one—content to coexist with its past, even as the lake dries and the acropolis crumbles.
Places to Visit nearby
- Almyropotamos – A small coastal village with a relaxed vibe and a sandy beach perfect for swimming and family outings. Enjoy fresh seafood by the water or take a short boat ride to explore hidden coves.
- Agioi Apostoloi – Known for its crystal-clear waters and lively fish tavernas, this seaside village is a favorite summer retreat. It’s ideal if you want a day of sunbathing, snorkeling, and fresh grilled octopus.
- Aliveri – The commercial heart of southern Evia, offering everything from supermarkets and banks to tavernas and bakeries. Stop here if you need to stock up or crave a quick urban interlude.
- Porto Boufalo – A tiny, fjord-like fishing port with a calm, almost cinematic atmosphere. Great for a quiet lunch by the sea or an off-the-grid swim with views of moored boats and pine-covered hills.
Videos
Photos
View (and if you want use) all my photographs from Dystos in higher resolution.
