Following Samarkand, we continued our Central Asia journey with two days in Bukhara. One of the most ancient cities in Uzbekistan, this is a treasure trove of history and culture that dates back over 2,500 years. Once a key hub on the Silk Road, it flourished as a center for trade, religion, and learning, with a skyline dominated by historic madrasas, mosques, and caravanserais. Its historic center, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, felt like walking through a giant open-air museum, where every corner told a story of the past.
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Here, I’m sharing the story of our visit, offering insights and inspiration for anyone planning to explore Bukhara on a similar schedule.
We arrived at Bukhara’s bus station in the early afternoon after a four-hour drive from Samarkand. The August heat had been cruel in Samarkand, but here—500 meters lower in elevation—it was downright brutal. Wasting no time, we hopped into an air-conditioned taxi and headed straight to our hotel.
Where to Stay
We stayed at Ohun Caravansarai, and if you’re looking for an affordable yet charming place to stay in Bukhara, I highly recommend it. The hotel is set in a beautifully renovated old caravansarai, featuring air-conditioned rooms and a picturesque inner garden that adds to its appeal. The location is fantastic—right at the start of Bukhara’s main tourist street—making it incredibly convenient for exploring the city. The staff were exceptionally friendly and accommodating, ensuring we felt welcome throughout our stay. And the breakfast? Absolutely excellent.
If you have a higher budget, check out Hotel Komil Boutique. Housed in a traditional 19th-century building, the hotel features intricately decorated rooms with air conditioning, private bathrooms, and free Wi-Fi. Its central location near Lyabi-Hauz Square makes it an excellent base for exploring the city’s historic sites. Guests particularly love the authentic ambiance and delicious breakfast served in a beautifully restored dining area.
For those seeking luxury, Mercure Hotel provides an upscale stay with breathtaking views of the iconic Kalyan Minaret. The hotel features spacious, elegantly designed rooms equipped with modern amenities, including premium bedding and a minibar. Guests enjoy gourmet dining, a serene courtyard, and exceptional service that ensures a memorable experience. Its location in the heart of the old city makes it ideal for exploring Bukhara’s main attractions.
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Bakhovaddin Naqshband Street
Hungry from the trip, we braved the heat to head out for lunch and a short stroll. Our path took us down Bakhovaddin Naqshband Street, named after the revered Sufi scholar and spiritual leader Bahāʾ al-Dīn Naqshband, founder of the Naqshbandi order. This pedestrian street is the heart of Bukhara’s commercial activity, lined with shops and vendors by night. In the middle of the day, however, it was scorched and deserted. We grabbed a quick kebab at this fast food place and retreated to our room until the sun dropped.
In the evening, Bakhovaddin Naqshband Street came alive with activity—locals, tourists, merchants, and street musicians filled the bustling thoroughfare. The outdoor restaurant around the pond at Lyab-i Hauz, the city’s most famous eatery set amidst a historic ensemble, was brightly lit and packed with diners. We weren’t planning to sit, regardless. We dined frugally in a simpler place. We then spent some time on the ledge with two cans of beer from the shop, people-watching and listening to street music, and went to bed before tomorrow’s long day of exploration.
Sightseeing Bukhara on Day 2
As I mentioned, Bukhara truly felt like a giant open-air museum. The entire old part of the city is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. At nearly every corner, there was a historic mosque, a grand mausoleum, or some impressive structure or another to marvel at. You could easily spend a week exploring the ancient city’s treasures.
Planning a single-day sightseeing route, especially on foot, was no easy task. But I think we managed quite well, visiting some of the city’s most notable landmarks. Below is our walking itinerary. If you want to make the most of your time, you might also consider joining an organized tour such as these:
We had breakfast as soon as the hotel staff could prepare it and set out to make the most of the cooler morning hours. Even then, the heat was already noticeable, so we avoided the main roads and navigated the shaded, narrow backstreets instead. The tiny houses, built of adobe, revealed straw ends protruding from their walls, a testament to their simple, traditional construction. We then walked out onto an open square where the first of a series of monuments stood.
Tim Abdullah Khan Trading Dome
The Tim Abdullah Khan is one of the historic trading domes of Bukhara, built in 1577 as part of the city’s thriving Silk Road economy. It is a domed bazaar structure, specifically designed to house merchants selling luxurious textiles, silk, and other fine goods. The architecture reflects the ingenuity of the era, with the dome providing natural ventilation and a cool environment for both traders and shoppers in Bukhara’s arid climate.
Tim Abdullah Khan is one of several such trading domes that once connected the city’s marketplaces. Today, visitors can wander through its atmospheric corridors, where modern artisans continue to sell handwoven carpets and traditional Uzbek crafts.
Abdulaziz-Khan & Ulugh Beg Madrasahs
Next to the trading dome stands a picturesque pair of madrasahs—old Islamic schools. The Abdulaziz Khan Madrasah is an architectural masterpiece built in 1652 during the reign of Abdulaziz Khan, a ruler of the Ashtarkhanid dynasty. This grand madrasah stands opposite the older Ulugh Beg Madrasah, creating a striking pair that symbolizes the evolution of Central Asian Islamic education and architecture. The building is renowned for its elaborate facade, adorned with vivid tiles, intricate mosaics, and rare depictions of mythical creatures—a bold departure from the strict geometric patterns typical of Islamic art.
Inside, the madrasah features spacious lecture halls, a mosque, and student cells, all designed to serve as a center of learning and spiritual reflection. Today, it serves as a cultural site, where visitors can admire its artistry and imagine the scholarly activity that once filled its halls.
Po-i-Kalyan
Around the corner, we then gawked at the city’s most impressive and renowned site. The Po-i-Kalyan complex is a monumental ensemble that has stood as the spiritual heart of the city for centuries. Anchored by the towering Kalyan Minaret—an architectural marvel that has survived earthquakes and invasions since the 12th century—the complex also includes the Kalyan Mosque and the Mir-i-Arab Madrasah. The latter is a functioning Islamic educational institution, permitting limited access to tourists. We could only enter the foyer and take a glimpse of the courtyard.
The Kalyan Mosque was accessible for a 15,000 UZS ticket. It features a vast courtyard with a sacred mulberry tree at its center surrounded by turquoise domes and intricate arches. The mosque was designed to accommodate up to 12,000 worshippers at its peak. A bunch of workers painted a prayer hall perched on precarious scaffolds during our visit—a testament to the ongoing efforts to preserve this historic gem.
The Ark Citadel of Bukhara
A short walk away, we reached the Ark Citadel of Bukhara. This towering earthen fortress is one of the city’s most iconic landmarks and a vivid reminder of its ancient past. Believed to date back to the 5th century, this massive structure served as the residence of Bukhara’s rulers and a symbol of their authority. Its angled, tapering walls, reminiscent of giant dams, are not only architecturally impressive but also strategically designed to withstand sieges and natural erosion. The citadel once functioned as a self-contained city, housing royal palaces, mosques, and military barracks.
Today, visitors can explore the site for an entry fee of 40,000 UZS, discovering various museums that highlight the region’s history, from archeological finds to royal artifacts. The citadel’s high vantage points offer stunning views of the old city, while its courtyards buzz with life as artisans craft and sell traditional goods on-site.
Bolo Haouz Mosque
The Bolo Haouz Mosque in Bukhara is a striking 18th-century structure that holds a place of prominence both historically and architecturally. Located opposite the Ark Citadel, it served as a Friday mosque for the city’s rulers and residents. Its most distinctive feature is the elegant iwan (entrance hall), supported by twenty intricately carved wooden columns that reflect in the turtle-populated shallow pool, or “haouz,” in front of the mosque. The shimmering effect has earned the mosque its poetic nickname, “The Mosque of the Forty Pillars.”
As we visited around Friday noon, the site was filled with praying believers. The preacher’s voice was loud yet melodious, making it pleasant to listen to. The congregation was separated from the road by a fence, and an armed guard on duty asked us not to take pictures after we took already a few. We had lunch in this lovely traditional restaurant next to the mosque.
Chashma-Ayub Mausoleum
We then continued a bit further west to the Chashma-Ayub Mausoleum. Its name translates to “Spring of Job,” referencing the biblical and Quranic figure Job (Ayub), who is said to have struck the ground here, causing a life-giving spring to emerge. The mausoleum, built during the 12th century and expanded in later periods, is unique for its conical dome, a rare feature in Bukhara’s architecture, which hints at influences from Khorezmian styles.
Today, the site houses a small museum dedicated to water management in the region, showcasing the ingenuity of ancient irrigation techniques. Visitors often pause to drink from the spring, believed to have healing properties. The entrance cost 15,000 som.
Samonids (Samonidov) Recreation Park & Mausoleum
As the heat was reaching its peak, we headed back toward the center through the Samonids Recreation Park. It is a peaceful green space named after the Samanid dynasty, which played a key role in the city’s cultural and architectural golden age. It encompasses the historic Samanid Mausoleum, shaded walkways, manicured gardens, and a tranquil environment perfect for relaxation. Its centerpiece is a beautiful artificial lake where families often gather for picnics, boat rides, or simply to enjoy the scenery.
Bukhara Photo Gallery
On the way back to the refuge of our hotel, we made a stop at the Bukhara Photo Gallery, located along Bakhovaddin Naqshband Street. Housed in a traditional building, this charming cultural space showcases the rich heritage and everyday life of Bukhara through the lens of talented photographers. The exhibition typically displays a mix of historical and contemporary images, offering a visual narrative of the city’s evolution over time. From vibrant bazaars and architectural landmarks to intimate portraits of local artisans, the photos capture the spirit and soul of Bukhara in vivid detail. The entrance is free, and the gallery is maintained by postcard sales.
Chor Minor
In the cooler afternoon, we went out out again and visited the Chor Minor mosque. Meaning “Four Minarets,” this is one of Bukhara’s most unique and visually striking landmarks. Built in the 19th century as part of a madrasa complex, the structure served as a gateway and now stands as a charming reminder of the city’s architectural diversity. The four minarets are each distinct, reflecting influences from various cultures encountered along the Silk Road, symbolizing the city’s cosmopolitan past.
Unlike traditional minarets, these towers were not used for the call to prayer but are purely decorative, adding to the site’s curious appeal. Chor Minor is tucked away in a quiet residential area, which adds to its quaint charm. A small shop inside sells local crafts, allowing visitors to take a piece of Bukhara’s artistry home. Its intimate scale and whimsical design make it a favorite among travelers and photographers, offering a glimpse of Bukhara’s eclectic history. The shop charged 15,000 som to let visitors climb to the top.
We walked some more around at random, then dined at this simple local restaurant away from the center. The food was good and cheap, although the owner tried to double-charge us. Lastly, we rested before tomorrow’s departure. Our next destination was the remote Zaamin National Park.
Photos
View (and if you want use) all my photographs from Bukhara in higher resolution.
