We had just left Mount Smolikas and were driving through the heart of the Pindus Mountains. Nothing but rock and forest was visible at the sides of the narrow, vacant road. After having hiked for five hours since dawn, we now had a long drive back home to Evia. We’d like some coffee soon, but there was no civilization in view.
Sophie checked the map and saw that the first—and only for some time—village coming up was called Samarina. It had a registered coffee shop that was supposed to be open. It would do. I expected something common for the area: a derelict traditional cafe with two grandpas in a forsaken, long-abandoned village. I was taken by surprise when we arrived.
Amid the wilderness at 1,500 meters of elevation, 50 km of sinuous drive away from the closest town, lay a civilized haven. Human voices filled the streets out of well-tended houses as we drove toward the center. The central square was aflush with people on a Sunday, restaurants and cafes full. We parked at the first available spot and came to the square on foot.
The kiosk keeper, noticing our cameras, gave us sightseeing recommendations. They comprised churches and short hikes. We’d have loved to explore, but we were tired and had a long drive ahead. Next time. This time we needed coffee.
We sat in one of the cafes, ordered coffee and cake, and started a chat with the young waiter. He said they have a permanent population of more than 1000. On some weekends, when they have weddings and stuff, there can be more than 10000 people on the square alone.
Even though we didn’t get to see much of it, we really enjoyed our brief visit to the village of Samarina and will hopefully come back someday to stay for a few days.
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