We had spent most of the day trapped between two snowslides on the remote, narrow mountain road coming out from the Valley of Vermosh in the Albanian Alps. It was late, dark, freezing night when we finally got unstuck and made it to Tamare village. After a quick meal, we headed straight for our next destination: the secluded valley of Vukel and Nikc.
Driving to Vukel Valley
The single road leading into Vukel Valley branches off the main road of Tamare at a point about a km south from the village center (cooridnates: 42.4542, 19.5609). The road is unpaved along its entire length and at times extremely rough. Although you see villagers driving it in their old Mercedes-Benz 2WD cars, I would personally be very reluctant to attempt it without a 4×4 – if I felt any pity for the vehicle. The road covers 11 km to Vukel and 13 km to Nikc. However, the trip takes much longer than these distances suggest.
It was deep night when we undertook the trip. Only our imagination could fathom the profundity of the cliffs on our left side, whose only the beginning we could discern through the austere darkness. It was only thanks to the map we got to know we’d driven past the village of Vukel, as we didn’t see a single visual sign of it. It was about time to conclude this long day with some good rest.
Camping in Vukel Valley
It was someplace between Vukel and Nikc we spotted a nice piece of flat ground right beside the river bank. We parked and crashed straight away in the car; we were too knackered to bother about pitching the tent.
It was a warm and cozy night. Especially comparing with last night’s freezing temperatures in Vermosh, it now felt almost as we were back in the tropics.
The morning came and revealed the epical beauty of the place that the night had kept concealed. It was about time to explore it.
In Nikc Village
At the end of the valley, shortly after the spot we’d slept on, there lay the remote village of Nikc. It was surrounded on all but one side by soaring, perpendicular precipices. Marvelous waterfalls cascaded vertically down the cliffs on all sides, coming from the lofty peaks that remained strictly hidden within the thick vapors.
The houses were few and sparsely spread throughout the valley. Their inhabitants must have been snugly perched within them, as we hardly saw a soul without. Given the absence of people and the dismalness of the sky, there was a certain spooky sensation pervading the village. The village’s church, with its high steeple and the surrounding smudged graves, added to it duly.
We would have liked to go for a thorough walk around, but the strong rain made that a little more complicated than we were willing to deal with at the moment. So our exploration remained mostly confined to where we could reach in the car. We had a good nosey and drove out from the village following the road on the valley’s northern slope.
In Vukel Village
Then we came to Vukel village: the principal settlement of the valley. This place was much more lively. Herders were jaunting here and there in charge of their herds. A group of some ten people waited under a shed beside the road in what must have been a bus stop. A lone man jogged over to our car to invite us to his home.
We followed him down the road. He pulled the impromptu wooden gate open and prompted us to drive into his yard. A sodden donkey regarded us curiously from beside the entrance.
We walked into his cute house and were offered a seat in his dim, unelectrified living room. He lit a couple of candles, called his three young sons over, and requested his wife to treat us with coffee and rakia before she starts preparing food.
He mixed his single-digit-numbering English vocabulary with Albanian and Serbian to communicate with us. I spoke to him in Russian, which I found him more likely to understand, given its resemblance to Serbian. The middle one of his sons spoke the best English in the house and proved the most eager to practice it.
The food came. We sat all seven around the small table and ate as if there were no tomorrow. He then gave us an extensive tour of his property, and he introduced us to all his many animals by name; quite an idyllic portrayal of rustic life. Apart from his typical, rural occupation, he also maintains a small shop and rooms for rent in his house. If you happen to pass by during a hike or road trip, you shouldn’t omit to pay him a visit and perhaps stay over for the night. His house is situated right beside the bridge upon entering Vukel from the west (coordinates: 42.4788, 19.6393).
He was quite anxious to persuade us to stay over for the night, but we had other plans. So we thanked for the exceptional hospitality and set off to continue our trip through the Albanian Alps.
Rent a car in Albania
If you are intending to go on a similar road trip in Albania, definitely check out the Lada Guys. These Russian machines will get you everywhere. But if you’re looking for a casual, cheaper car to drive on asphalt, you’ll find some good deals on autoeurope.com
Accommodation and Activities in Albania
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