On one of our day excursions to the surroundings of Ching Rai, we rented a scooter and rode along the bank of the upper part of Mae Kok River. Beyond doubt, that was one of the most scenic rides I’ve ever had in Thailand.
We drove to Ban Rai Mu Village and took a left off the main road to meet the northern bank of Mae Kok at Ban Rim Kok Village. Then we rolled steadily west, the view of the river’s idly-flowing waters being our constant company.
Owing to the country-wide lockdown caused by the Covid-19 pandemic, everything was exceptionally quiet. There were hardly any vehicles on the road; hardly any vessels floating on the river; no mention about tourists. That desolation, combined with the dense smog that permeated northern Thailand’s atmosphere during those days, cast an eerie yet fascinating aura throughout the valley of Mae Kok.
At one point, we drove past the headquarters of an elephant-tours agency. It was, of course, shut. We wondered where the elephants may be sojourning during these days of rest. Shortly afterwards, we ran into one of them being chained in the middle of a small patch of grass by the riverbank. The chain was hardly longer than his body. Poor creature. It crossed our minds to come back in the dark with a saw, but that could have us ending up chained instead.
We drove for about 30 km along the bank, going past many villages and picturesque viewpoints, until we reached the village of Ban Pha Kwang. Being cutting straight through the mountains, this must definitely be considered the most scenic part of Mae Kok River.
From there on, the road left the river and turned north, heading high up into a ravine. The asphalt road soon took an end. We continued driving up on a bumpy dirt road. The views down the steep cliffs that bordered the road were absolutely astounding.
We made our way through a number of villages: Ban Phana Sawan, Ban Huay Lu Luang, Ban A-Koe Lang, and Ban A-Di. The inhabitants of those teeny settlements seemed stuck to a distant, peaceful past, utterly oblivious of what may be happening in the outside world. With regard to the virus, I didn’t see anyone wearing a mask. I wondered whether they knew at all.
After the last of those villages, even the slightest traces of civilization receded. Whatever we could have so far called a road, was then but a narrow, hardly-passable track. Wide, mountainous views and quiet all around.
That lasted for a few kilometers, until we ended up meeting the main road 107. We took that one east until Mae Chan, and completing a circle around the Mae Kok National Park, we made it back to Chiang Rai by late afternoon.
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