Overwhelmed with awe we regarded our new surroundings as we ambled through the timeworn city of Gjirokaster. We had just arrived there after a 2-day hike from Delvina over Mount Gjere. It was one of the last days of 2020. We had planned to settle and welcome the first days of the 3rd decade of the 21st with due comfort. The epical images of human effort harmonized with majestic nature we beheld all around us suggested we had chosen the right place.
Far from falling short of our expectations, Gjirokaster made for an excellent, profoundly memorable stay. From strolling around its steep cobbled streets and marveling at its charming architecture; to exploring the countless secluded off-road trails in and around the city; to tasting its delicious traditional dishes and mingling with its amiable inhabitants… our stay in Gjirokaster brimmed with those never-to-be-forgotten little moments.
So here I am making this post to share with you some of the nicest pictures I took during this stay and my tips and suggestions for experiencing Gjirokaster to the fullest.
What to See in Gjirokaster
Here are a few sights you shouldn’t omit to check out.
Gjirokaster Castle
Nobly posed atop a massive rock and overlooking the entire city from its middle, the castle of Gjirokaster isn’t only the city’s landmark, but also its name-giver. The Albanian name of the city derives from the Greek Argyrokastron meaning the silver castle. Being silver in neither color nor material, the castle owes its epithet to some princess called Argyro who is said to have jumped to her death off the walls to avoid capture by Turkish besiegers.
Within its extensive premises, the citadel hosts a museum, a festival scene, a recovered US Air Force jet, and a clocktower. It is one of the most-visited archeological sites in the country. It is normally open during daytime year-round for a 400-lek admission fee. But in our case, it was unfortunately closed due to the pandemic. Anyhow, we could still walk freely around its walls and marvel at it from various viewpoints around the city.
Gjirokaster Bazaar – Old Town
Consisting of a complex of slanted cobbled streets, Gjirokaster Bazaar used to be the city’s commercial hub since its establishment in the 17th century. Having acquired its current state after a reconstruction following a fire in the late 19th century, today it functions as the city’s tourist hotspot.
The streets are lined up with shops of identical facades, all bearing identical signboards to bespeak the kind of business they host. Souvenir shops, travel agencies, cafes, and restaurants are the most common. I imagine this place crammed with folks during a high season without a pandemic. But as the case was upon our visit, it was rather desolate and most shops were closed; a good occasion to experience is at peace and indulge in the good old wistful musings associated with antiquated neighborhoods.
Ali Pasha Bridge
Constructed by the order of the renowned ruler of Epirus Ali Pasha in the early 19th century, this bridge was a part of an extensive aqueduct system that provided fresh water to the castle. And it is the only part of the aqueduct still standing.
Ali Pasha Bridge is situated at the bottom of a deep ravine, a half-hour’s hike southwest from the center of Gjirokaster. Its exact coordinates are 40.0647, 20.1316. The hike is an exquisite experience in its own right, and the bridge makes up for some lovely photographic opportunities.
Skenduli House
This mansion is arguably the most characteristic and best-preserved example of traditional Gjirokastrian architecture. The house was built in the early 18th century and remains largely in its original state. The Skenduli family had dough and wasn’t shy about it. The house features 12 rooms, 6 bathrooms, 44 doors, 64 windows, 9 fireplaces, and 4 hammams.
Albanian Communist dictator Enver Hoxha, who lived nearby, apparently didn’t let the chance to express his grudging envy towards his richer neighbors when he came to power. The mansion was confiscated by the Communist authorities and was turned into an Ethnographic Museum. After the fall of the Iron Curtain, the house was returned to its rightful owner but remains open to visitors (half a century of Communism must have impoverished the Skenduli family; why not earn some extra cash?).
Zekate House
Located a mere couple of hundred meters away from the one of the Skendulis, the Zekate House is yet another example of extravagant Gjirokastrian architecture. It is also open to visitors.
Ethnographic Museum – Hoxha’s House
After the fall of the Communist regime, it was dictator Hoxha’s house’s turn to function as the Ethnographic museum. Lacking from the above-mentioned mansions in both grandness and oldness, the building dates back to 1966, when it was erected on the site of the previous, blazed structure. It served as an Antifascist Museum until 1991 when it acquired its current function. Just like all other museums, it was unfortunately shut during our visit.
The Cold War Tunnel
This is one of innumerable, extensive bunkers found throughout the country. It reflects the Communist regime’s paranoia of an always-imminent invasion and is fully decked out for surviving a nuclear attack. The tunnel entrance is near the municipality building below the western slope of the castle.
Mosques and Churches
Despite half a century of extreme anti-religious Communism, Gjirokaster has no shortage of places of worship nowadays. A number of picturesque mosques and churches are to be found around the city. The Bazaar Mosque and the Greek Orthodox Church of the Transfiguration are probably the most notable ones.
The Gypsy Quarters
This isn’t by any chance the sight you will find listed in a typical travel guide. But since we happened to pass through it at random and found it pretty interesting, I include it here. The gypsy neighborhood is located about a kilometer south of the city center, on the way to Lazarat. Coordinates: 40.0646, 20.1510. I found it quite interesting to get a glimpse into the everyday life of those real nomads. And they were pretty friendly, too
Lazarat
Since I just mentioned it, a walk to the neighboring village of Lazarat makes for a lovely day hike. Far from having experienced the touristic development of Gjirokaster, life in Lazarat is laid-back, rustic, and amicable. The village itself is very scenic, too, and surrounded by breathtaking nature.
Where to Stay in Gjirokaster
I won’t hesitate to say that the place we stayed in Gjirokaster turned out to be one of the cutest guesthouses I’ve been in my entire life (and these are far from few). It is hosted in one of the highest houses in Gjirokaster that doesn’t lack charm compared to the above-mentioned mansions. Our stone room was spacious, classically furnished, and featured a large window overlooking the castle and the entire city before the majestic mountains in the distance. The owners were very friendly and accommodating. And all that for one of the most economic budgets available in the city. Check it out on Booking.
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Where to Eat in Gjirokaster
I won’t be of much help to you in suggesting places to eat in Gjirokaster. But I can unreservedly recommend the one place where, after stepping in once, we ended up having dinner each and every night. This was a little, cute one-man restaurant owned by Arti. Not only did he cook delicious food – which I’m sure pretty much everybody does – but he was so genuinely chummy and generous that we simply could not refuse to come back. His prices were also very decent. Arti’s restaurant is called Taverna Lani and is located some 100 meters south of the castle. Coordinates: 40.0712, 20.1371.
It’s situated on the same road as Kurveleshi restaurant
